A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
CUATRO (star)(star)(star) 2030 S. Wabash Ave., 312-842-8856. A contemporary South Loop spot with a nightlife vibe, Cuatro offers sophisticated surroundings and the multifaceted nuevo Latino cooking of Bryan Garcia, who flits from country to country and shifts from contemporary to traditional dishes with seamless ease. Live music and livelier cocktails are major pluses, as is the generally attentive service. Recommended: Salmon-scallops ceviche, chocolate-truffle martini. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $12-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
DI PESCARA (star)(star) 2124 Northbrook Ct., Northbrook, 847-498-4321. An overnight success with its North Shore neighbors, Di Pescara might be the ideal shopping-mall restaurant. The cuisine is simple and approachable, the dining rooms are spacious without being unbearably noisy (though hardly quiet) and the menu is packed with budget-friendly innovations. Recommended: Artichoke all’ Marco, shrimp Pescara, Pescatore. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15.95-$28.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
FULTON’S ON THE RIVER (star)(star)(star) 315 N. LaSalle St., 312-822-0100. With its riverside location and historic-loft charm, Fulton’s looks every bit the sophisticated steak and seafooder that it sets out to be. The beef is all USDA prime; the seafood pristine and there’s enough imagination in the menu to distinguish it from the rest of the pack. Summer and the outdoor-dining season means that the dual riverside patios contain some of the most sought-after tables in town. Recommended: Oysters, lamb chops, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18.95-$46.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
MAY STREET MARKET (star)(star)(star) 1132 W. Grand Ave., 312-421-5547. This West Town charmer is a pure delight, from the inviting and beautiful physical space to chef/owner Alexander Cheswick’s clever seasonal-American menu, replete with novel flavor pairings and bereft of been-there-done-that combinations. The wine list, with interesting choices, is priced very fairly, and offers most of its bottles at $40 or less. Recommended: Maytag bleu cheesecake, scallops over black orzo. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat. Entree prices: $18-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MICHAEL (star)(star)(star) 64 Green Bay Rd., Winnetka, 847-441-3100. If you share chef/owner Michael Lachowicz’ love for classic French cuisine, chances are you’ll love his restaurant as well. Pommes puree served tableside from silver pans, an abundance of luxury ingredients–Michael knows how to coddle his guests, though he manages to do so at a rather approachable price. Recommended: Salad lyonnaise, seared foie gras, guinea hen, fallen chocolate souffle. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $23-$25. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; complimentary valet parking; no smoking.
RHAPSODY (star)(star)(star) 65 E. Adams St., 312-786-9911. Rhapsody is a restaurant attached to Symphony Center that has quietly become one of the best fine-dining options in the Loop, thanks to the unique stylings of Chef Doran Payne, who insinuates the flavors of his native St. Lucia into his cooking. He makes liberal use of fruit, for example, though the food reflects Payne’s European training more than anything. An aggressive beverage program, attentive service and a delightful outdoor garden are all pluses. Built as part of Symphony Center, Rhapsody serves first and foremost to feed the CSO subscribers enroute to performances, but Payne’s food makes Rhapsody a worthwhile destination even when–make that especially when–the performance space is dark. Recommended: Duck pastrami salad, gnocchi with shrimp, halibut with passionfruit butter, chocolate Symphony. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
SCHWA (star)(star)(star) 1466 N. Ashland Ave., 773-252-1466. Plenty of people pay handsomely to dine at “chef tables,” in order to observe and interact with the kitchen staff. At Schwa, that interaction comes at a relative bargain price, because though entrees are in the upper-$20s and lower $30s, you bring your own wine. The food, by chef/owner Michael Carlson, is imaginative and artistic and reflective of his work under uber-chef Grant Achatz. There is no army of servers. Indeed, there is only Carlson and sous Nathan Klingball more often than not, which means the chef or sous will be the person taking your order. (Then again, there are only 28 seats, and Carlson is stingy with his reservations–a must.) The $85 degustation is probably the best way to go, though a la carte works fine as well. Just bring a variety of wines if you’re concerned about food matches. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $21-$35. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: No smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
