A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
DEL TORO (star)(star)(star) 1520 N. Damen Ave., 773-252-1500. There’s a lot of bull about this restaurant, and I mean that in a good way. Horn-shaped lights jut aggressively from one wall, another wall boasts an animal-hide cover accented with artistic gashes; undulating curves on the bar and ceiling recall a matador’s cape, as does the back room, swathed in a multitude of red fabrics. Andy Zimmerman’s tapas menu includes just enough traditional dishes to establish credibility, but for the most part steers clear of the tried-and-true. Recommended: Cabrales and date croquettas, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun. Tapas prices: $3-$16. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
DINE (star) 733 W. Madison St., 312-602-2100. A cheerful hotel restaurant with echoes of ’40s supper clubs in its decor, Dine offers an American menu steeped in familiarity but brightened with occasional moments of creativity. Its easy access to the Loop and UIC Pavilion make it a worthwhile pre-event option, and a raft of discounts (which change daily) make it a budget-friendly option as well. Recommended: Duo of mini-burgers, seared salmon over black rice, malted milk mousses trio. Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet (with validation).
MAY STREET MARKET (star)(star)(star) 1132 W. Grand Ave., 312-421-5547. This West Town charmer is a pure delight, from the inviting and beautiful physical space to chef/owner Alexander Cheswick’s clever seasonal-American menu, replete with novel flavor pairings and bereft of been-there-done-that combinations. Recommended: Maytag bleu cheesecake, carrot-lemongrass soup, scallops over black orzo, white-chocolate semifreddo. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat. Entree prices: $18-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
RHAPSODY (star)(star)(star) 65 E. Adams St., 312-786-9911. Rhapsody is a restaurant attached to Symphony Center that has quietly become one of the best fine-dining options in the Loop, thanks to the unique stylings of Chef Doran Payne. An aggressive beverage program, attentive service and a delightful outdoor garden are all pluses. Recommended: Duck pastrami salad, gnocchi with shrimp, halibut with passionfruit butter, chocolate Symphony. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
SCHWA (star)(star)(star) 1466 N. Ashland Ave., 773-252-1466. Chef/owner Michael Carlson’s food is imaginative and artistic, reflective of his work under uber-chef Grant Achatz. At Schwa, however, there is no army of servers (as there are at Achatz’ Alinea) attending to your every whim. Indeed, there is only Carlson and sous Nathan Klingball more often than not, which means the chef or sous will be the person taking your order. (Then again, there are only 28 seats, and Carlson is stingy with his reservations, which are a must.) Compensating for this lack of pampering is relatively lower prices: Patrons choose between a three-course menu (with choices) for $55 or the grand, nine-course chef’s tasting for $90. And bring your favorite wine or wines; Schwa has no liquor license and Carlson does not plan to obtain one. Which is yet another reason you’ll save money at this unique dining experience. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Prices: Three-course dinner $55, nine-course $90. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: No smoking.
SCYLLA (star)(star)(star) 1952 N. Damen Ave., 773-227-2995. Stephanie Izard is one sweet chef, which she demonstrates daily at her charming, 50-seat Bucktown restaurant. Izard works a little hint of sweetness into just about everything she cooks, but balances flavors so precisely that it never seems like overkill. Scylla takes its name from a mythological nymph-turned-sea-monster (which explains the seafood-focused menu), but there’s nothing inhospitable about the charming and knowledgeable service or the intimate atmosphere. And Scylla caters to just-stopping-by locals with an appealing bar menu of $5 nibbles. Recommended: Lobster profiteroles, escargot-stuffed figs, grouper with sweetbreads, beignets. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $17-$25. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, no smoking.
SOLA (star)(star)(star) 3868 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-327-3868. Chef Carol Wallack is flying high with her first solo (or sola) effort, a contemporary American dining room whose menu gives full play to Wallack’s surfer-girl fondness for Californian and Hawaiian flavors. Interesting textures highlight the kitchen creations, served in a sophisticated dining room loaded with light wood and neutral tones. Friendly and precise service is a particular strength. Recommended: Lobster-shiitake pot stickers, crab cakes, miso black cod, duck breast, citrus pound cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Thu.-Sat., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
