A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
CUATRO (star)(star)(star) 2030 S. Wabash Ave., 312-842-8856. A contemporary South Loop spot with a nightlife vibe, Cuatro offers sophisticated surroundings and the multifaceted nuevo Latino cooking of Bryan Garcia, who flits from country to country and shifts from contemporary to traditional dishes with seamless ease. Live music and livelier cocktails are major pluses, as is the generally attentive service. If you’re in the neighborhood for lunch, Garcia’s tortas gigantes are very satisfying, and the Bossa Nova brunch is accompanied by live music. Recommended: Salmon-scallops ceviche, moqueca do mar, pork chop, chocolate-truffle martini. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $12-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
DAVID BURKE’S PRIMEHOUSE (star)(star) 616 N. Rush St., 312-660-6000. A steakhouse that dry-ages its prime beef in a salt-lined room below the dining room, Primehouse appeals to the younger steak-lover with hip decor and creative culinary items from its namesake founding chef. Steaks typically spend 28 days in the aging room, but from time to time a 40-day steak might be available for a price upgrade. Recommended: Surf-and-turf dumplings, porterhouse for one, 40-day ribeye, “rack of cookies.” Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., breakfast and lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $22-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
DEL TORO (star)(star)(star) 1520 N. Damen Ave., 773-252-1500. There’s a lot of bull about this restaurant, and I mean that in a good way. Horn-shaped lights jut aggressively from one wall, another wall boasts an animal-hide cover accented with artistic gashes; undulating curves on the bar and ceiling recall a matador’s cape, as does the back room, swathed in a multitude of red fabrics. Andy Zimmerman’s tapas menu includes just enough traditional dishes to establish credibility, but for the most part steers clear of the tried-and-true. The joint is too noisy, but what tapas bar isn’t? Recommended: Cabrales and date croquettas, sashimi-style scallops, chorizo-stuffed calamari, rainbow trout, lamb chops, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun. Tapas prices: $3-$16. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
DELEECE (star)(star) 4004 N. Southport Ave., 773-325-1710. Such customer-friendly features as a $20 three-course menu on Mondays-Tuesdays, half-price wine bottles Wednesdays and free WiFi access during lunch help distinguish this Wrigleyville mainstay. That, and the very good American food by chef Steven Obendorf, and the restaurant’s urban-casual atmosphere and friendly, laid-back service. Recommended: Pot stickers, duck breast with sweet-pea ravioli, skirt steak, chocolate-chip banana-bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
DINE (star) 733 W. Madison St., 312-602-2100. A cheerful hotel restaurant with echoes of ’40s supper clubs in its decor, Dine offers an American menu steeped in familiarity but brightened with occasional moments of creativity. Its easy access to the Loop and UIC Pavilion make it a worthwhile pre-event option, and a raft of discounts (which change daily) make it a budget-friendly option as well. Recommended: Duo of mini-burgers, seared salmon over black rice, Malted Milk Mousses trio. Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet (with validation).
FULTON’S ON THE RIVER (star)(star)(star) 315 N. LaSalle St., 312-822-0100. With its riverside location and historic-loft charm, Fulton’s looks every bit the sophisticated steak and seafooder that it sets out to be. The beef is all USDA prime; the seafood, particularly the oysters, is pristine and there’s just enough imagination in the menu to distinguish it from the rest of the pack. Summer and the outdoor-dining season mean that the dual riverside patios contain some of the most sought-after tables in town. Recommended: Oysters, crabcake, tuna Three Ways, lamb chops, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18.95-$46.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
GAMBA (star)(star) 455 E. 84th Drive, Merrillville, Ind., 219-736-5000. Gamba looks like a circular fortress from the outside but there’s charm to spare within, thanks to a design that arranges the dining room around an outdoor courtyard. The menu seesaws between traditional Italian creations and wild flights of fancy by Chef Simon Floyd; the Italian choices are safest, but some of the whimsical items work OK, too. The wine list is overpriced, with few interesting by-the-glass choices. Recommended: Eggplant with ground veal, braised rabbit with polenta, scallops with wasabi cream sauce. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $17-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in lounge only.
GRIDLEY’S BAR & GRILLE (star)(star) 4868 Ill. Hwy. 83, Long Grove, 847-478-3663. A reliable American restaurant that makes the extra effort, whether it be smoking its own meats and fish (in a detached smokehouse on the restaurant property) or touches such as complimentary valet parking. This isn’t going to become the northwest suburbs’ Next Big Thing, but for uncomplicated, good-value eating, it’s tough to beat. Recommended: Apple-onion soup, smokehouse chili, crabmeat-topped grouper, prime rib. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $11.95-$33.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
HEATS (star)(star), 355 E. Grand Ave., 312-884-8288. Attached to the Holmes Place health club, this concept is a contraction of “healthy eats,” which to owner Kee Chan means small portions, and lots of vegetables, nearly all of it raw. Food is never warmed beyond a certain level, and that includes the proteins, which range from pristinely fresh scallops to cuts of wild kangaroo meat. No liquor license as of this writing. Recommended: Kangaroom carpaccio, striped marlin, duck prosciutto, berry mille feuille. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sat.-Sun. Prices: Small plates $6-$9; tasting menus $30-$75. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, validated parking available, no smoking.
IL MULINO NEW YORK (star)(star) 1150 N. Dearborn St., 312-440-8888. This NYC import tries to wow its patrons with ritual and extravagance, from the showy, chandelier-filled dining rooms to the myriad bits of tableside ministrations applied by the tuxedoed waitstaff. It’s all a bit over the top and, not surprisingly, so are the prices, as evidenced by $23 langoustine-and-risotto appetizers and similarly eye-popping tariffs for whole fish and veal dishes. High-quality ingredients are pluses; minuses include too-close tables and the lack of a suitable waiting area. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $24.75-$48. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Valet parking, no smoking.
MAY STREET MARKET (star)(star)(star) 1132 W. Grand Ave., 312-421-5547. This West Town charmer is a pure delight, from the inviting and beautiful physical space to chef/owner Alexander Cheswick’s clever seasonal-American menu, replete with novel flavor pairings. The wine list, teeming with interesting choices, is priced very fairly, and offers most of its bottles at $40 or less. Recommended: Maytag bleu cheesecake, carrot-lemongrass soup, scallops over black orzo, white-chocolate semifreddo. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat. Entree prices: $18-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MULAN (Satisfactory), 2017 S. Wells St., level 2, 312-842-8282. An ambitious newcomer to the Chinatown neighborhood, Mulan is a beautiful, softly lit space offering novel land-and-sea, Asian-French pairings by chef/owner Kee Chan. The kitchen needs to overcome overcooking issues and service, albeit friendly, is still finding its way. The liquor license is also on its way, which will allow the restaurant to showcase its selection of Austrian, South African and Israeli wines. Recommended: Seared scallop with Chinese bacon, Tiger shrimp and mixed-green salad, sorbets. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
REDSTONE AMERICAN GRILL (star) 13 Lincoln Ct., Oakbrook Terrace, 630-268-0313. Roaring gas fireplaces greet customers even before they reach the front doors of this Western-theme restaurant, including the flames dancing near the outdoor deck, which is generally full of attractive young professionals shortly after 5 p.m. The something-for-everyone-menu offers plenty of food for your dollars. Recommended: Flatbread pizzas, barbecued ribs, Parmesan-crusted halibut. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $16-$33. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
RHAPSODY (star)(star)(star) 65 E. Adams St., 312-786-9911. Rhapsody is a restaurant attached to Symphony Center that has quietly become one of the best fine-dining options in the Loop, thanks to the unique stylings of Chef Doran Payne, who insinuates the flavors of his native St. Lucia into his cooking. He makes liberal use of fruit, for example, though the food reflects Payne’s European training more than anything. An aggressive beverage program, attentive service and a delightful outdoor garden are all pluses. Built as part of Symphony Center, Rhapsody serves first and foremost to feed the CSO subscribers enroute to performances, but Payne’s food makes Rhapsody a worthwhile destination even when–make that especially when–the performance space is dark. Recommended: Duck pastrami salad, gnocchi with shrimp, halibut with passionfruit butter, chocolate Symphony. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
SCHWA (star)(star)(star) 1466 N. Ashland Ave., 773-252-1466. Chef/owner Michael Carlson’s food is imaginative and artistic, reflective of his work under uber-chef Grant Achatz. At Schwa, however, there is no army of servers (as there are at Achatz’ Alinea) attending to your every whim. Indeed, there is only Carlson and sous Nathan Klingball more often than not, which means the chef or sous will be the person taking your order. (Then again, there are only 28 seats, and Carlson is stingy with his reservations, which are a must.) Compensating for this lack of pampering is relatively lower prices: Patrons choose between a three-course menu (with choices) for $55 or the grand, nine-course chef’s tasting for $90. And bring your favorite wine or wines; Schwa has no liquor license and Carlson does not plan to obtain one. Which is yet another reason you’ll save money at this unique dining experience. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Prices: Three-course dinner $55, nine-course $90. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: No smoking.
SOLA (star)(star)(star) 3868 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-327-3868. Chef Carol Wallack is flying high with her first solo (or sola) effort, a contemporary American dining room whose menu gives full play to Wallack’s surfer-girl fondness for Californian and Hawaiian flavors. Interesting textures highlight the kitchen creations, served in a sophisticated dining room loaded with light wood and neutral tones. Friendly, precise service is a particular strength. Recommended: Lobster-shiitake pot stickers, crab cakes, miso black cod, duck breast, citrus pound cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Thu.-Sat., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
TERRAGUSTO (star)(star) 1851 W. Addison St., 773-248-2777. Cute, modestly priced (and BYO) and attitude-free despite its strong commitment to organic, local products, Terragusto is a delightful neighborhood restaurant, particularly if this happens to be your neighborhood. Parking can be tricky, and don’t even think about visiting without a reservation, as Terragusto’s 28 seats fill up fast. Homemade pastas are the big draw; during the day you can cruise by and see owner Theo Gilbert or one of his underlings making fresh pasta by the front window. Recommended: Mozzarella “in a carriage,” verde alla bolognese, stracci with mushrooms. Open: Dinner Wed-Sun., lunch Wed.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $13-$19. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: BYOB; no smoking.
TIMO (star)(star) 464 N. Halsted St., 312-226-4300. The eight-year-old French bistro Thyme has been transformed by chef/owner John Bubala into a rustic-Italian concept. Bubala continues to use his wood-burning rotisserie to great effect (particularly with chicken and lamb dishes), and one or two Thyme signatures remain on the menu, so the change won’t come as a shock to any long-time customers. Indeed, they’ll probably like most of the new dishes. Recommended: Parmesan shrimp in vanilla nage, prosciutto with organic ricotta, duck with polenta, pineapple cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
TRATTORIA GEMELLI (star)(star) 3755 Grand Blvd., Brookfield, 708-387-2445. A chummy trattoria with very good food and a staff that does just about everything right, Trattoria Gemelli is a big hit in restaurant-starved Brookfield. Chef Fiorenza Tasinato has a knack of making simple dishes sing with flavor. There’s no room to wait at this no-reservations restaurant, so the Salt Creek Wine Bar across the street comes in handy. Recommended: Eggplant Parmesan, Gemelli pizza, mixed-seafood grill, veal saltimbocca, cannoli “martini.” Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $11-$20. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
