A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
AGAMI (star) 4712 N. Broadway, 773-506-1845. Red quilted-leather seating, moonscape wall treatments, video displays–is this a restaurant or an Epcot ride? Agami’s jazzed-up interiors are clearly intended to attract a younger set to this still-gentrifying stretch of Uptown, but those who stay for the sushi are apt to be impressed with the kitchen’s careful, sometimes playful concoctions. The few entrees on the menu tend to be hit-or-miss, but the sushi bar is very reliable. Recommended: Filet mignon spring roll, tuna-softshell maki, mackerel nigiri. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Prices: Maki rolls $12-$18. Credit cards: A. DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking weekends.
GAMBA (star)(star) 455 E. 84th Drive, Merrillville, Ind., 219-736-5000. Gamba looks like a circular fortress from the outside but there’s charm to spare within, thanks to a Jordan Mozer design that arranges the dining room (and several private spaces) around an outdoor courtyard in the center. The menu seesaws between traditional Italian creations and wild flights of fancy by Chef Simon Floyd; the Italian choices are safest but some of the whimsical items work OK, too. The overpriced wine list and scarcity of interesting by-the-glass choices are minuses. Recommended: Eggplant with ground veal, braised rabbit with polenta, scallops with wasabi cream sauce. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $17-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in lounge only.
GRIDLEY’S BAR & GRILLE (star)(star) 4868 Ill. Hwy. 83, Long Grove, 847-478-3663. A reliable American restaurant that makes the extra effort, whether it be smoking its own meats and fish (in a detached smokehouse on the restaurant property) or touches such as complimentary valet parking. This isn’t going to become the northwest suburbs’ Next Big Thing, but for uncomplicated, good-value eating, it’s tough to beat. Recommended: Apple-onion soup, smokehouse chili, crabmeat-topped grouper, prime rib. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $11.95-$33.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
HEATS (star)(star), 355 E. Grand Ave., 312-884-8288. Attached to the Holmes Place health club, this concept is a contraction of “healthy eats,” which to owner Kee Chan means small portions, and lots of vegetables, nearly all of it raw. Food is never warmed beyond a certain level, and that includes the proteins, which range from pristinely fresh scallops to cuts of wild kangaroo meat. No liquor license as of this writing, but the application is in. Recommended: Kangaroom carpaccio, striped marlin, duck prosciutto, berry mille feuille. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sat.-Sun. Prices: Small plates $6-$9; tasting menus $30-$75. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, validated parking available, no smoking.
KODA (star)(star) 10352 S. Western Ave., 773-445-5632. Though owners Janice and Patrick Daley have been praised for opening this bistro in the restaurant-deprived Beverly neighborhood, the truth is that Koda would be a welcome addition just about anywhere. Chef Aaron Browning brings a lot of experience to a menu that incorporates French classics with more contemporary dishes, and just about everything sings. Service needs polish, but is certainly friendly and eager enough, and in addition to a handsome, understated dining room, there’s an adjacent lounge whose comforts are no doubt appreciated by the people waiting patiently (up to an hour on weekends) for a table. Recommended: Tart flambee, scallops over risotto, roasted salmon, chocolate-espresso cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.50-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, no smoking.
MAY STREET MARKET (star)(star)(star) 1132 W. Grand Ave., 312-421-5547. This West Town charmer is a pure delight, from the inviting and beautiful physical space to chef/owner Alexander Cheswick’s clever seasonal-American menu, replete with novel flavor pairings and bereft of been-there-done-that combinations. The wine list, teeming with interesting choices, is priced very fairly, and offers most of its bottles at $40 or less. Recommended: Maytag bleu cheesecake, carrot-lemongrass soup, scallops over black orzo, white-chocolate semifreddo. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat. Entree prices: $18-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MEIJI (star)(star)(star) 623 W. Randolph St., 312-887-9999. Arguably Chicago’s finest Japanese restaurant, Meiji appeals to the sushi purist, offering ingredients that competitors disregard (such as fresh wasabi). The interior is frill-free but nevertheless attractive and comfortable, the sake offerings are impressive and even the desserts, which bear an unmistakable Western accent, are worth exploring. Recommended: Meiji gunkan, oysters kampai, hari roll, ginger creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Prices: Maki rolls $11-$16. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MULAN (Satisfactory), 2017 S. Wells St., level 2, 312-842-8282. An ambitious newcomer to the Chinatown neighborhood, Mulan is a beautiful, softly lit space offering novel land-and-sea, Asian-French pairings by chef/owner Kee Chan. The kitchen needs to overcome overcooking issues and service, albeit friendly and approachable, is still finding its way. The liquor license is also on its way, which will allow the restaurant to showcase its selection of Austrian, South African and Israeli wines. Recommended: Seared scallop with Chinese bacon, Tiger shrimp and mixed-green salad, sorbets. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
REDSTONE AMERICAN GRILL (star) 13 Lincoln Ct., Oakbrook Terrace, 630-268-0313. Roaring gas fireplaces greet customers even before they reach the front doors of this Western-theme restaurant, including the flames dancing near the outdoor deck, which is generally full of attractive young professionals shortly after 5 p.m. The something-for-everyone-menu offers plenty of food for your dollars, undoubtedly part of the draw. Recommended: Flatbread pizzas, barbecued ribs, Parmesan-crusted halibut. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $16-$33. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
TIMO (star)(star) 464 N. Halsted St., 312-226-4300. The eight-year-old French bistro Thyme has been transformed by chef/owner John Bubala into a rustic-Italian concept. Bubala continues to use his wood-burning rotisserie to great effect (particularly with chicken and lamb dishes), and one or two Thyme signatures remain on the menu, so the change won’t come as a shock to any long-time customers. Indeed, they’ll probably like most of the new dishes. Recommended: Parmesan shrimp in vanilla nage, prosciutto with organic ricotta, duck with polenta, pineapple cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
