A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
FULTON’S ON THE RIVER (star)(star)(star) 315 N. LaSalle St., 312-822-0100. With its riverside location and historic-loft charm, Fulton’s looks every bit the sophisticated steak and seafooder that it sets out to be. The beef is all USDA prime; the seafood, particularly the oysters, is pristine and there’s just enough imagination in the menu to distinguish it from the rest of the pack. Recommended: Oysters, crabcake, tuna Three Ways, lamb chops, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18.95-$46.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
GRIDLEY’S BAR & GRILLE (star)(star) 4868 Ill. Hwy. 83, Long Grove, 847-478-3663. A reliable American restaurant that makes the extra effort, whether it be smoking its own meats and fish or touches such as complimentary valet parking. Recommended: Apple-onion soup, smokehouse chili, crabmeat-topped grouper, prime rib. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $11.95-$33.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
KODA (star)(star) 10352 S. Western Ave., 773-445-5632. Though owners Janice and Patrick Daley have been praised for opening this bistro in the restaurant-deprived Beverly neighborhood, the truth is that Koda would be a welcome addition just about anywhere. Chef Aaron Browning brings a lot of experience to a menu that incorporates French classics with more contemporary dishes, and just about everything sings. Service needs polish, but is certainly friendly and eager enough. Recommended: Tart flambee, scallops over risotto, roasted salmon, chocolate-espresso cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.50-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, no smoking.
MEIJI (star)(star)(star) 623 W. Randolph St., 312-887-9999. Arguably Chicago’s finest Japanese restaurant, Meiji appeals to the sushi purist, offering ingredients that competitors disregard (such as fresh wasabi). The interior is frill-free but nevertheless attractive and comfortable. Recommended: Meiji gunkan, oysters kampai, hari roll, ginger creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Prices: Maki rolls $11-$16. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
TED’S MONTANA GRILL (Satisfactory) 1811 Tower Drive, Glenview, 847-729-1117. The “Ted” in this Rocky-Mountain-theme eatery is media mogul Ted Turner, and some of his farm-raised bison make it on the menu here, an attractive dining room with tiled floors and Mission-style furnishings. Nearly every steak and burger can be made with beef or bison, the latter leaner and milder in flavor but less-forgiving of overcooking (order your bison one level cooler than you customarily take it, to be safe). Recommended: Onion rings, Swiss burger, hangar steak. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $10.99-$23.99. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
