We women are a smart lot. Oh, we may have had our dalliances with acid-washed jeans and leg warmers (and a few of us admit to a severe lapse of judgment with that whole Flashdance off-the-shoulder thing). But most of the time, we know when designers are trying to sell us something that should never be worn by your average gal. We never really did believe that pink was the new black.
Conversely, we flock to the stores when designers get it right — when they design something that might look better on Kate Moss or Gisele Bundchen, but looks pretty good on our figures also.
This fall offers both options, a trend that works for just about everyone and, conversely, one that should be adopted only by the minute percentage of women whose dress size is less than their shoe size. Enter the two extremes: the wide trouser and the skinny pant.
“We’ve been in a skinny jean, skinny pant and legging mode,” says Michael Fink, Saks Fifth Avenue vice president of women’s fashion. “The opposite is moving in. What it means to the majority of women is the return of a wide-legged, comfortable pant.”
A comfortable pant that fits a variety of body types, notes Nordstrom fashion director Gregg Andrews.
“It’s an extremely figure-flattering pant for all body types, whether you’re wide-hipped or slender,” he says. “Petites can wear this look, too. They just have to watch the proportions. Shorter women should choose pants with a less dramatic outward line.”
Wide pants vary in width. Some drop straight down from the hip while others get wider as they descend. The high waist is also being shown frequently, creating the long-legged look these pants helped to make famous.
“Many of these pants are menswear-inspired,” Andrews says. “We’re seeing them in traditional menswear patterns such as pinstripes, herringbone, subtle plaids and checks.”
Colors also trend toward the menswear look, in subtle shades such as camel, black and gray.
Wear a feminine top to counter the menswear feel, counsels Geralynn Madonna, president and CEO of Spiegel Brands Inc.
“Incorporate a portrait collar or lace blouse for contrast,” she suggests.
Scale is key to the look. Fink likes a tailored shirt or slim jacket with the look while Andrews suggests a simple turtleneck or crisp white blouse.
Shoes must be sizable to “ground” the look, Andrews says. “You need something substantial, like a platform shoe or a boot.”
Fink agrees and cautions against flats. “These pants need a strong finish,” he says.
The wider pant is not trending just in sportswear and work ensembles, but also in evening looks.
“You see it for evening in beautiful fabrics like chiffon and satin,” Fink says. “It’s a great look for women who want to mix it up for parties and events.”
And for those who are still not sure this look will work for them, there’s hope. Spiegel currently offers a wide-legged pant with a control top built into the trouser. A power-mesh liner controls the stomach, rear, hip and thigh area.
Fashion marries function? We’ll take it. And not an acid-washed choice in the bunch. Perhaps the average woman is not the only one learning from her fashion mistakes.
