A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
BISTROT MARGOT (star)(star) 216 S. Washington St., Naperville, 630-778-1944. Like its Old Town parent, this sibling operation in the western suburbs has its bistro act down pat. Red walls and velvet curtains and a white mosaic-tile floor help the restaurant look the part, and chef/owner Joe Doppes’ no-nonsense classic menu does the rest. A couple of service and kitchen tweaks are all that’s needed to make this satellite restaurant the equal of the downtown original–and that’s saying something. Recommended: French onion soup, escargots in persillade, whitefish amandine. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $13.50-$19.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly.
FULTON’S ON THE RIVER (star)(star)(star) 315 N. LaSalle St., 312-822-0100. With its riverside location and historic-loft charm, Fulton’s looks every bit the sophisticated steak and seafooder that it sets out to be. The beef is all USDA prime; the seafood, particularly the oysters, is pristine and there’s just enough imagination in the menu to distinguish it from the rest of the pack. Recommended: Oysters, crabcake, tuna Three Ways, lamb chops, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18.95-$46.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
GAMBA (star)(star) 455 E. 84th Drive, Merrillville, Ind., 219-736-5000. Gamba looks like a circular fortress from the outside but there’s charm to spare within, thanks to a Jordan Mozer design that arranges the dining room (and several private spaces) around an outdoor courtyard in the center. The menu seesaws between traditional Italian creations and wild flights of fancy by Chef Simon Floyd; the Italian choices are safest but some of the whimsical items work OK, too. The overpriced wine list and scarcity of interesting by-the-glass choices are minuses. Recommended: Eggplant with ground veal, braised rabbit with polenta, scallops with wasabi cream sauce. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $17-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in lounge only.
KODA (star)(star) 10352 S. Western Ave., 773-445-5632. Though owners Janice and Patrick Daley have been praised for opening this bistro in the restaurant-deprived Beverly neighborhood, the truth is that Koda would be a welcome addition just about anywhere. Chef Aaron Browning brings a lot of experience to a menu that incorporates French classics with more contemporary dishes, and just about everything sings. Service needs polish, but is certainly friendly and eager enough, and in addition to a handsome, understated dining room, there’s an adjacent lounge whose comforts are no doubt appreciated by the people waiting patiently (up to an hour on weekends) for a table. Recommended: Tart flambee, scallops over risotto, roasted salmon, chocolate-espresso cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.50-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, no smoking.
MEIJI (star)(star)(star) 623 W. Randolph St., 312-887-9999. Arguably Chicago’s finest Japanese restaurant, Meiji appeals to the sushi purist, offering ingredients that competitors disregard (such as fresh wasabi). The interior is frill-free but nevertheless attractive and comfortable, the sake offerings are impressive and even the desserts, which bear an unmistakable Western accent, are worth exploring. Recommended: Meiji gunkan, oysters kampai, hari roll, ginger creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Prices: Maki rolls $11-$16. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MOSAIC (star) 151 N. Joliet St., Joliet, 815-740-7800. Most casinos’ idea of fine dining is an expensive steakhouse, so credit Harrah’s Joliet Casino (which, admittedly, also is building a steakhouse) for this something-for-everyone restaurant, which isn’t overly fancy but is way nicer than any buffet. The dining room is wildly colorful and spacious, service is almost obsessively friendly and Lam Vongsakoun’s approachable menu still has room for some spicy dishes and the occasional flourish. It’s decent for the most part, and the desserts are especially good. Recommended: Pot stickers, flatiron steak, Death By Chocolate, Key lime martini. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Sun. Entree prices: $13.95-$25.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet parking.
RHAPSODY (star)(star)(star) 65 E. Adams St., 312-786-9911. Rhapsody is a restaurant attached to Symphony Center that has quietly become one of the best fine-dining options in the Loop, thanks to the unique stylings of Chef Doran Payne, who insinuates the flavors of his native St. Lucia into his cooking. He makes liberal use of fruit, for example, though the food reflects Payne’s European training more than anything. An aggressive beverage program and attentive service are all pluses. Recommended: Duck pastrami salad, gnocchi with shrimp, halibut with passionfruit butter, chocolate Symphony. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
SCHWA (star)(star)(star) 1466 N. Ashland Ave., 773-252-1466. Chef/owner Michael Carlson’s food is imaginative and artistic. However, there is no army of servers attending to your every whim. Indeed, there is only Carlson and sous Nathan Klingball more often than not, which means that the chef or sous chef will be the person taking your order. (Then again, there are only 28 seats at Schwa, and Carlson is stingy with his reservations, which are a must.) Compensating for this lack of pampering is relatively lower prices: Patrons choose between a three-course menu (with choices) for $55 or the grand, nine-course chef’s tasting for $90. And bring your favorite wine or wines; Schwa has no liquor license and Carlson does not plan to obtain one. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Prices: Three-course dinner $55, nine-course $90. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: No smoking.
TRATTORIA GEMELLI (star)(star) 3755 Grand Blvd., Brookfield, 708-387-2445. A chummy trattoria with very good food and a staff that does just about everything right, Trattoria Gemelli is a big hit in restaurant-starved Brookfield. Chef Fiorenza Tasinato has a knack of making simple dishes sing with flavor. There’s no room to wait at this no-reservations restaurant, so the Salt Creek Wine Bar that is located across the street comes in handy. Recommended: Eggplant Parmesan, Gemelli pizza, mixed-seafood grill, veal saltimbocca, cannoli “martini.” Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $11-$20. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
