A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
BISTROT MARGOT (star)(star) 216 S. Washington St., Naperville, 630-778-1944. Like its Old Town parent, this sibling operation in the western suburbs has its bistro act down pat. Red walls and velvet curtains and a white mosaic-tile floor help the restaurant look the part, and chef/owner Joe Doppes’ no-nonsense classic menu does the rest. Recommended: Escargots in persillade, whitefish amandine. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $13.50-$19.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly.
DINE (star) 733 W. Madison St., 312-602-2100. A cheerful hotel restaurant with echoes of ’40s supper clubs in its decor, Dine offers an American menu steeped in familiarity but brightened with occasional moments of creativity. Recommended: Duo of mini-burgers, Malted Milk Mousses trio. Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet (with validation).
ENTOURAGE (star)(star) 1301 American Lane, Schaumburg, 847-995-9400. The cocktail-shaker-shaped front window is a clue to how seriously this sophisticated restaurant takes its beverage program, from its not-the-usual-suspects wine list to a cocktail list that includes $75-plus “luxury” blends. But Entourage is serious about its food, an approachable, contemporary-American menu. There’s more solid execution than originality, but most dishes work fine. Recommended: Tuna tataki, macadamia tilapia. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15.95-$42.95. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
MAY STREET MARKET (star)(star)(star) 1132 W. Grand Ave., 312-421-5547. This West Town charmer is a pure delight, from the inviting and beautiful physical space to chef/owner Alexander Cheswick’s clever seasonal-American menu, replete with novel flavor pairings and bereft of been-there-done-that combinations. Recommended: Maytag bleu cheesecake, carrot-lemongrass soup, scallops over black orzo, white-chocolate semifreddo. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat. Entree prices: $18-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
REDSTONE AMERICAN GRILL (star) 13 Lincoln Ct., Oakbrook Terrace, 630-268-0313. Roaring gas fireplaces greet customers even before they reach the front doors of this Western-theme restaurant, including the flames dancing near the outdoor deck. The something-for-everyone-menu offers plenty of food for your dollars, undoubtedly part of the draw. Recommended: Flatbread pizzas, barbecued ribs, Parmesan-crusted halibut. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $16-$33. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
RIVA (star)(star) 2020 Calamos Ct., Naperville, 630-718-1010. This west-suburban Riva may not have the lake view (though there’s a nice landscaped pond to peer over) of the original Riva on Navy Pier, but with Charles Weber running the kitchen, the food out west might be a little better than the food downtown. Weber’s plates are picture-perfect, and every dish contains just a little more than you expect. Recommended: Bacon-wrapped scallops in tomatillo sauce, Key lime pie. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $17.95-$40.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking at bar only.
TRATTORIA GEMELLI (star)(star) 3755 Grand Blvd., Brookfield, 708-387-2445. A chummy trattoria with very good food and a staff that does just about everything right, Trattoria Gemelli is a big hit in restaurant-starved Brookfield. Chef Fiorenza Tasinato has a knack of making simple dishes sing with flavor. There’s no room to wait at this no-reservations restaurant, so the Salt Creek Wine Bar across the street comes in handy. Recommended: Eggplant Parmesan, Gemelli pizza, veal saltimbocca, cannoli “martini.” Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $11-$20. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
