A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
BISTROT MARGOT (star)(star) 216 S. Washington St., Naperville, 630-778-1944. Like its Old Town parent, this sibling operation in the western suburbs has its bistro act down pat. Red walls and velvet curtains and a white mosaic-tile floor help the restaurant look the part, and chef/owner Joe Doppes’ no-nonsense classic menu does the rest. A couple of service and kitchen tweaks are all that’s needed to make this satellite restaurant the equal of the downtown original–and that’s saying something. Recommended: French onion soup, escargots in persillade, whitefish amandine. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $13.50-$19.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly.
CUSTOM HOUSE (star)(star)(star) 500 S. Dearborn St., 312-523-0200. Shawn McClain, who has wowed diners with his seafood-focused Spring and veggie-centric Green Zebra, turns his skills to roasted meats in this handsome Printer’s Row spot inside Hotel Blake. The menu and location ensure a pricier dining experience than McClain’s fans have grown accustomed to, but lovingly handled meats and an array of intriguing side dishes–as well as pastry chef Elissa Narow’s desserts–justify the expense again and again. Recommended: Beef tartare, sweetbreads, duck breast, striped bass, baked Alaska. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $18-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible (through hotel entrance), valet parking, no smoking.
DEL TORO (star)(star)(star) 1520 N. Damen Ave., 773-252-1500. There’s a lot of bull about this restaurant, and I mean that in a good way. Horn-shaped lights jut aggressively from one wall, another wall boasts an animal-hide cover accented with artistic gashes; undulating curves on the bar and ceiling recall a matador’s cape, as does the back room, swathed in a multitude of red fabrics. Andy Zimmerman’s tapas menu includes just enough traditional dishes to establish credibility, but for the most part steers clear of the tried-and-true. The joint is too noisy, but what tapas bar isn’t? Recommended: Cabrales and date croquettas, sashimi-style scallops, chorizo-stuffed calamari, rainbow trout, lamb chops, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun. Tapas prices: $3-$16. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
FULTON’S ON THE RIVER (star)(star)(star) 315 N. LaSalle St., 312-822-0100. With its riverside location and historic-loft charm, Fulton’s looks every bit the sophisticated steak and seafooder that it sets out to be. The beef is all USDA prime; the seafood, particularly the oysters, is pristine and there’s just enough imagination in the menu to distinguish it from the rest of the pack. Recommended: Oysters, crabcake, tuna Three Ways, lamb chops, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18.95-$46.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
GAMBA (star)(star) 455 E. 84th Drive, Merrillville, Ind., 219-736-5000. Gamba looks like a circular fortress from the outside but there’s charm to spare within, thanks to a Jordan Mozer design that arranges the dining room (and several private spaces) around an outdoor courtyard in the center. The menu seesaws between traditional Italian creations and wild flights of fancy by Chef Simon Floyd; the Italian choices are safest but some of the whimsical items work OK, too. The overpriced wine list and scarcity of interesting by-the-glass choices are minuses. Recommended: Eggplant with ground veal, braised rabbit with polenta, scallops with wasabi cream sauce. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $17-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in lounge only.
IL MULINO NEW YORK (star)(star) 1150 N. Dearborn St., 312-440-8888. This NYC import tries to wow its patrons with ritual and extravagance, from the showy, chandelier-filled dining rooms to the myriad bits of tableside ministrations applied by the tuxedoed waitstaff. It’s all a bit over the top and, not surprisingly, so are the prices, as evidenced by $23 langoustine-and-risotto appetizers and similarly eye-popping tariffs for whole fish and veal dishes. High-quality ingredients are pluses; minuses include too-close tables and the lack of a suitable waiting area (a downstairs lounge is under construction). Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $24.75-$48. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Valet parking, no smoking.
KODA (star)(star) 10352 S. Western Ave., 773-445-5632. Though owners Janice and Patrick Daley have been praised for opening this bistro in the restaurant-deprived Beverly neighborhood, the truth is that Koda would be a welcome addition just about anywhere. Chef Aaron Browning brings a lot of experience to a menu that incorporates French classics with more contemporary dishes, and just about everything sings. Service needs polish, but is certainly friendly and eager enough, and in addition to a handsome, understated dining room, there’s an adjacent lounge whose comforts are no doubt appreciated by the people waiting patiently (up to an hour on weekends) for a table. Recommended: Tart flambee, scallops over risotto, roasted salmon, chocolate-espresso cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.50-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, no smoking.
MAY STREET MARKET (star)(star)(star) 1132 W. Grand Ave., 312-421-5547. This West Town charmer is a pure delight, from the inviting and beautiful physical space to chef/owner Alexander Cheswick’s clever seasonal-American menu, replete with novel flavor pairings and bereft of been-there-done-that combinations. The wine list, teeming with interesting choices, is priced very fairly, and offers most of its bottles at $40 or less. Recommended: Maytag bleu cheesecake, carrot-lemongrass soup, scallops over black orzo, white-chocolate semifreddo. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat. Entree prices: $18-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MEIJI (star)(star)(star) 623 W. Randolph St., 312-887-9999. Arguably Chicago’s finest Japanese restaurant, Meiji appeals to the sushi purist, offering ingredients that competitors disregard (such as fresh wasabi). The interior is frill-free but nevertheless attractive and comfortable, the sake offerings are impressive and even the desserts, which bear an unmistakable Western accent, are worth exploring. Recommended: Meiji gunkan, oysters kampai, hari roll, ginger creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Prices: Maki rolls $11-$16. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MICHAEL (star)(star)(star) 64 Green Bay Rd., Winnetka, 847-441-3100. If you share chef/owner Michael Lachowicz’ love for classic French cuisine, chances are you’ll love his restaurant as well. Pommes puree served tableside from silver pans, an abundance of luxury ingredients–Michael knows how to coddle his guests, though he manages to do so at a rather approachable price. Recommended: Salad lyonnaise, seared foie gras, guinea hen, fallen chocolate souffle. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $23-$25. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; complimentary valet parking; no smoking.
MOSAIC (star) 151 N. Joliet St., Joliet, 815-740-7800. Most casinos’ idea of fine dining is an expensive steakhouse, so credit Harrah’s Joliet Casino (which, admittedly, also is building a steakhouse) for this something-for-everyone restaurant, which isn’t overly fancy but is way nicer than any buffet. The dining room is wildly colorful and spacious, service is almost obsessively friendly and Lam Vongsakoun’s approachable menu still has room for some spicy dishes and the occasional flourish. It’s decent for the most part, and the desserts are especially good. Recommended: Pot stickers, flatiron steak, Death By Chocolate, Key lime martini. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Sun. Entree prices: $13.95-$25.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet parking.
RHAPSODY (star)(star)(star) 65 E. Adams St., 312-786-9911. Rhapsody is a restaurant attached to Symphony Center that has quietly become one of the best fine-dining options in the Loop, thanks to the unique stylings of Chef Doran Payne, who insinuates the flavors of his native St. Lucia into his cooking. He makes liberal use of fruit, for example, though the food reflects Payne’s European training more than anything. An aggressive beverage program and attentive service are pluses. Built as part of Symphony Center, Rhapsody serves first and foremost to feed the CSO subscribers enroute to performances, but Payne’s food makes Rhapsody a worthwhile destination even when–make that especially when–the performance space is dark. Recommended: Duck pastrami salad, halibut with passionfruit butter, chocolate Symphony. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
RIVA (star)(star) 2020 Calamos Ct., Naperville, 630-718-1010. This west-suburban Riva may not have the lake view (though there’s a nice landscaped pond to peer over) or city skyline vistas of the original Riva on Navy Pier, but with Charles Weber running the kitchen, the food out west might be a little better than the food downtown. Weber’s plates are picture-perfect, and every dish contains just a little more than you expect. A young but eager waitstaff keeps things running smoothly, and the white-tablecloth dining room, part of a contemporary office complex, is beautiful. Recommended: Bacon-wrapped scallops in tomatillo sauce, Alaskan halibut with crab canneloni, Key lime pie. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $17.95-$40.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking at bar only.
SCHWA (star)(star)(star) 1466 N. Ashland Ave., 773-252-1466. Chef/owner Michael Carlson’s food is imaginative and artistic, reflective of his work under uber-chef Grant Achatz. At Schwa, however, there is no army of servers (as there are at Achatz’ Alinea) attending to your every whim. Indeed, there is only Carlson and sous Nathan Klingball more often than not, which means the chef or sous will be the person taking your order. (Then again, there are only 28 seats, and Carlson is stingy with his reservations, which are a must.) Compensating for this lack of pampering is relatively lower prices: Patrons choose between a three-course menu (with choices) for $55 or the grand, nine-course chef’s tasting for $90. And bring your favorite wine or wines; Schwa has no liquor license and Carlson does not plan to obtain one. Which is yet another reason you’ll save money at this unique dining experience. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Prices: Three-course dinner $55, nine-course $90. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: No smoking.
SOLA (star)(star)(star) 3868 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-327-3868. Chef Carol Wallack is flying high with her first solo (or sola) effort, a contemporary American dining room whose menu gives full play to Wallack’s surfer-girl fondness for Californian and Hawaiian flavors. Interesting textures highlight the kitchen creations, served in a sophisticated dining room loaded with light wood and neutral tones. Friendly and precise service is a particular strength. Recommended: Lobster-shiitake pot stickers, crab cakes, miso black cod, duck breast, citrus pound cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Thu.-Sat., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
TIMO (star)(star) 464 N. Halsted St., 312-226-4300. The eight-year-old French bistro Thyme has been transformed by chef/owner John Bubala into a rustic-Italian concept. Bubala continues to use his wood-burning rotisserie to great effect (particularly with chicken and lamb dishes), and one or two Thyme signatures remain on the menu, so the change won’t come as a shock to any long-time customers. Indeed, they’ll probably like most of the new dishes. Recommended: Parmesan shrimp in vanilla nage, prosciutto with organic ricotta, duck with polenta, pineapple cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
TRATTORIA GEMELLI (star)(star) 3755 Grand Blvd., Brookfield, 708-387-2445. A chummy trattoria with very good food and a staff that does just about everything right, Trattoria Gemelli is a big hit in restaurant-starved Brookfield. Chef Fiorenza Tasinato has a knack of making simple dishes sing with flavor. There’s no room to wait at this no-reservations restaurant, so the Salt Creek Wine Bar across the street comes in handy. Recommended: Eggplant Parmesan, Gemelli pizza, mixed-seafood grill, veal saltimbocca, cannoli “martini.” Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $11-$20. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
