A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
DAVID BURKE’S PRIMEHOUSE (star)(star) 616 N. Rush St., 312-660-6000. A steakhouse that dry-ages its prime beef in a salt-lined room below the dining room, Primehouse appeals to the younger steak-lover with hip decor and creative culinary items from its namesake founding chef. Steaks typically spend 28 days in the aging room. Recommended: 40-day ribeye, “rack of cookies.” Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., breakfast and lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $22-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
DELEECE (star)(star) 4004 N. Southport Ave., 773-325-1710. Such customer-friendly features as a $20 three-course menu on Mondays-Tuesdays, half-price wine bottles Wednesdays and free WiFi access during lunch help distinguish this Wrigleyville mainstay. That, and the very good American food by chef Steven Obendorf, and the restaurant’s urban-casual atmosphere and friendly, laid-back service. Recommended: Pot stickers, duck breast with sweet-pea ravioli, skirt steak, chocolate-chip banana-bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
DI PESCARA (star)(star) 2124 Northbrook Ct., Northbrook, 847-498-4321. A success with its North Shore neighbors, Di Pescara might be the ideal shopping-mall restaurant. The cuisine is simple and approachable, the dining rooms spacious without being unbearably noisy and the menu is packed with budget-friendly innovations, the best of which is the “A-List” of $5 glasses of wine matched to specific entrees. Recommended: Artichoke all’ Marco, shrimp Pescara.Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15.95-$28.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
FULTON’S ON THE RIVER (star)(star)(star) 315 N. LaSalle St., 312-822-0100. With its riverside location and historic-loft charm, Fulton’s looks every bit the sophisticated steak and seafooder that it sets out to be. The beef is all USDA prime; the seafood, particularly the oysters, is pristine and there’s just enough imagination in the menu to distinguish it from the rest of the pack. Recommended: Oysters, crabcake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18.95-$46.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
IL MULINO NEW YORK (star)(star) 1150 N. Dearborn St., 312-440-8888. This NYC import tries to wow its patrons with ritual and extravagance, from the showy, chandelier-filled dining rooms to the myriad bits of tableside ministrations applied by the tuxedoed waitstaff. It’s all a bit over the top and, not surprisingly, so are the prices, as evidenced by $23 langoustine-and-risotto appetizers and similarly eye-popping tariffs for whole fish and veal dishes. High-quality ingredients are pluses; minuses include too-close tables. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $24.75-$48. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Valet parking, no smoking.
MEIJI (star)(star)(star) 623 W. Randolph St., 312-887-9999. Arguably Chicago’s finest Japanese restaurant, Meiji appeals to the sushi purist, offering ingredients that competitors disregard (such as fresh wasabi). The interior is frill-free but nevertheless attractive and comfortable, the sake offerings are impressive and even the desserts, which bear an unmistakable Western accent, are worth exploring. Recommended: Meiji gunkan, ginger creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Prices: Maki rolls $11-$16. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
SOLA (star)(star)(star) 3868 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-327-3868. Chef Carol Wallack is flying high with her first solo (or sola) effort, a contemporary American dining room whose menu gives full play to Wallack’s surfer-girl fondness for Californian and Hawaiian flavors. Interesting textures highlight the kitchen creations, served in a sophisticated dining room loaded with light wood and neutral tones. Recommended: Lobster-shiitake pot stickers, crab cakes, miso black cod, duck breast, citrus pound cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Thu.-Sat., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
TIMO (star)(star) 464 N. Halsted St., 312-226-4300. The eight-year-old French bistro Thyme has been transformed by chef/owner John Bubala into a rustic-Italian concept. Bubala continues to use his wood-burning rotisserie to great effect (particularly with chicken and lamb dishes), and one or two Thyme signatures remain on the menu, so the change won’t come as a shock to any long-time customers. Recommended: Parmesan shrimp in vanilla nage, prosciutto with organic ricotta, duck with polenta, pineapple cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
