A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
BEN PAO (star)(star) 52 W. Illinois St., 312-222-1888. OK, there are Thai satays on the menu, an all-Western dessert list and numerous other touches that tell you that this isn’t a “real” Chinese restaurant. But Ben Pao more than compensates with skillfully prepared food, beautiful decor and very good service. The wide-ranging menu has been expanded to include hot pot dining (a sort of Chinese fondue–24 hours’ notice required to reserve a hot pot table) and some throwback dishes such as moo goo gai pan, that are updated takes on the sort of Chinese food your grandparents might have ordered. Recommended: Garlic tofu, passionfruit creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $7.95-$19.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
DAVID BURKE’S PRIMEHOUSE (star)(star) 616 N. Rush St., 312-660-6000. A steakhouse that dry-ages its prime beef in a salt-lined room below the dining room, Primehouse appeals to the younger steak-lover with hip decor and creative culinary items from its namesake founding chef. Steaks typically spend 28 days in the aging room. Recommended: Porterhouse for one, 40-day ribeye, “rack of cookies.” Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., breakfast and lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $22-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
DEL TORO (star)(star)(star) 1520 N. Damen Ave., 773-252-1500. There’s a lot of bull about this restaurant, and I mean that in a good way. Horn-shaped lights jut aggressively from one wall, another wall boasts an animal-hide cover accented with artistic gashes; undulating curves on the bar and ceiling recall a matador’s cape, as does the back room, swathed in a multitude of red fabrics. Andy Zimmerman’s tapas menu includes just enough traditional dishes to establish credibility, but for the most part steers clear of the tried-and-true. Recommended: Cabrales and date croquettas, sashimi-style scallops, chorizo-stuffed calamari, rainbow trout, lamb chops, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun. Tapas prices: $3-$16. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
DINE (star) 733 W. Madison St., 312-602-2100. A cheerful hotel restaurant with echoes of ’40s supper clubs in its decor, Dine offers an American menu steeped in familiarity but brightened with occasional moments of creativity. Its easy access to the Loop and UIC Pavilion make it a worthwhile pre-event option, and a raft of discounts (which change daily) make it a budget-friendly option as well. Recommended: Duo of mini-burgers, seared salmon over black rice, Malted Milk Mousses trio. Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet (with validation).
MAY STREET MARKET (star)(star)(star) 1132 W. Grand Ave., 312-421-5547. This West Town charmer is a pure delight, from the inviting and beautiful physical space to chef/owner Alexander Cheswick’s clever seasonal-American menu, replete with novel flavor pairings and bereft of been-there-done-that combinations. Recommended: Maytag bleu cheesecake, carrot-lemongrass soup, white-chocolate semifreddo. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat. Entree prices: $18-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MEIJI (star)(star)(star) 623 W. Randolph St., 312-887-9999. Arguably Chicago’s finest Japanese restaurant, Meiji appeals to the sushi purist, offering ingredients that competitors disregard (such as fresh wasabi). The interior is frill-free but nevertheless attractive and comfortable, the sake offerings are impressive and even the desserts, which bear an unmistakable Western accent, are worth exploring. Recommended: Meiji gunkan, ginger creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Prices: Maki rolls $11-$16. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
TIMO (star)(star) 464 N. Halsted St., 312-226-4300. The eight-year-old French bistro Thyme has been transformed by chef/owner John Bubala into a rustic-Italian concept. Bubala continues to use his wood-burning rotisserie to great effect (particularly with chicken and lamb dishes), and one or two Thyme signatures remain on the menu, so the change won’t come as a shock to any long-time customers. Recommended: Parmesan shrimp in vanilla nage, prosciutto with organic ricotta, duck with polenta, pineapple cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
