A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
DAVID BURKE’S PRIMEHOUSE (star)(star) 616 N. Rush St., 312-660-6000. A steakhouse that dry-ages its prime beef in a salt-lined room below the dining room, Primehouse appeals to the younger steak-lover with hip decor and creative culinary items from its namesake founding chef. Steaks typically spend 28 days in the aging room, but from time to time a 40-day steak might be available for a price upgrade. Recommended: Surf-and-turf dumplings, porterhouse for one, 40-day ribeye, “rack of cookies.” Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., breakfast and lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $22-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
DELEECE (star)(star) 4004 N. Southport Ave., 773-325-1710. Such customer-friendly features as a $20 three-course menu on Mondays-Tuesdays, half-price wine bottles Wednesdays and free WiFi access during lunch help distinguish this Wrigleyville mainstay. That, and the very good American food by chef Steven Obendorf, and the restaurant’s urban-casual atmosphere and friendly, laid-back service. Recommended: Pot stickers, duck breast with sweet-pea ravioli, skirt steak, chocolate-chip banana-bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
ENTOURAGE (star)(star) 1301 American Lane, Schaumburg, 847-995-9400. The cocktail-shaker-shaped front window is a clue to how seriously this sophisticated restaurant takes its beverage program, from its not-the-usual-suspects wine list to a cocktail list that includes $75-plus “luxury” blends (in a keepsake, hand-painted glass). But Entourage is serious about its food, an approachable, contemporary-American menu. There’s more solid execution than originality, but most dishes work fine. Recommended: Tuna tataki, macadamia tilapia, prime rib, white-chocolate cheesecake. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15.95-$42.95. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
GINGER ASIAN BISTRO (star)(star) 15700 S. Harlem Ave., Orland Park, 708-633-1818. This south-suburban surprise has a chain-restaurant look (it’s a converted Damon’s Grill) and a chain-sounding name, but forget the packaging. Inside, you’ll find intriguing, generally well executed Asian fusion cuisine by chef Kelvin Cheung (whose father owns Chinatown’s Phoenix restaurant). Sometimes the chef’s ambition exceeds his grasp, but his occasional flashes of brilliance, as in his startling daikon ravioli, make the trip worthwhile. Recommended: Thai-curry crabcakes, five-spice calamari, lamb chops, ginger creme brulee. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., dim sum Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $12-$23. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
GRIDLEY’S BAR & GRILLE (star)(star) 4868 Ill. Hwy. 83, Long Grove, 847-478-3663. A reliable American restaurant that makes the extra effort, whether it be smoking its own meats and fish (in a detached smokehouse on the restaurant property) or touches such as complimentary valet parking. This isn’t going to become the northwest suburbs’ Next Big Thing, but for uncomplicated, good-value eating, it’s tough to beat. Recommended: Apple-onion soup, smokehouse chili, crabmeat-topped grouper, prime rib. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $11.95-$33.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
KODA (star)(star) 10352 S. Western Ave., 773-445-5632. Though owners Janice and Patrick Daley have been praised for opening this bistro in the restaurant-deprived Beverly neighborhood, the truth is that Koda would be a welcome addition just about anywhere. Chef Aaron Browning brings a lot of experience to a menu that incorporates French classics with more contemporary dishes, and just about everything sings. Service needs polish, but is certainly friendly and eager enough, and in addition to a handsome, understated dining room, there’s an adjacent lounge whose comforts are no doubt appreciated by the people waiting patiently (up to an hour on weekends) for a table. Recommended: Tart flambee, scallops over risotto, roasted salmon, chocolate-espresso cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.50-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, no smoking.
MAY STREET MARKET (star)(star)(star) 1132 W. Grand Ave., 312-421-5547. This West Town charmer is a pure delight, from the inviting and beautiful physical space to chef/owner Alexander Cheswick’s clever seasonal-American menu, replete with novel flavor pairings and bereft of been-there-done-that combinations. The wine list, teeming with interesting choices, is priced very fairly, and offers most of its bottles at $40 or less. Recommended: Maytag bleu cheesecake, carrot-lemongrass soup, scallops over black orzo, white-chocolate semifreddo. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat. Entree prices: $18-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MEIJI (star)(star)(star) 623 W. Randolph St., 312-887-9999. Arguably Chicago’s finest Japanese restaurant, Meiji appeals to the sushi purist, offering ingredients that competitors disregard (such as fresh wasabi). The interior is frill-free but nevertheless attractive and comfortable, the sake offerings are impressive and even the desserts, which bear an unmistakable Western accent, are worth exploring. Recommended: Meiji gunkan, oysters kampai, hari roll, ginger creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Prices: Maki rolls $11-$16. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
NICHE (star)(star)(star) 14 S. Third St., Geneva, 630-262-1000. Once there was a stellar contemporary-American restaurant in the Fox Valley called 302 West. When that restaurant was sold in spring 2006, its chef, wine directors and most of the other staffers banded together to open this cozy 72-seater a half-year later. Fans of the old 302 will find plenty of similarities in Niche’s scrupulously seasonal menu and unerring seafood preparations, but this impressive newcomer is definitely a new chapter for chef Jeremy Lycan, manager/sommelier Jody Richardson, and crew. Recommended: Smoked sturgeon, grouper with crawfish, pecan-crusted walleye, roasted duck breast, chocolate assortment. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $27-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
NOMI (star)(star)(star)1/2 Park Hyatt Chicago, 800 N. Michigan Ave., 312-239-4030. This showpiece of the Hyatt hotel group is a very expensive restaurant, yet time and again Christophe David’s exquisite French cuisine and NoMi’s luxuriously appointed interior justify the tariff. NoMi’s dramatic seventh-floor views of the historic Water Tower and the surrounding cityscape are icing on the cake. Recommended: Truffle tart, veal loin with sweetbreads, turbot, Majari chocolate dome. Open: Dinner and breakfast Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $36-$50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
RHAPSODY (star)(star)(star) 65 E. Adams St., 312-786-9911. Rhapsody is a restaurant attached to Symphony Center that has quietly become one of the best fine-dining options in the Loop, thanks to the unique stylings of Chef Doran Payne, who insinuates the flavors of his native St. Lucia into his cooking. He makes liberal use of fruit, for example, though the food reflects Payne’s European training more than anything. Built as part of Symphony Center, Rhapsody serves first and foremost to feed the CSO subscribers enroute to performances, but Payne’s food makes Rhapsody a worthwhile destination. Recommended: Duck pastrami salad, gnocchi with shrimp, halibut with passionfruit butter, chocolate Symphony. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
THE STAINED GLASS (star)(star)(star) 1735 Benson Ave., Evanston, 847-864-8600. Rarely do food and wine match so beautifully as they do at this North Shore stunner, where chef Victor Hernandez’ superb contemporary-American food is supported by a fine beverage program that offers wines by the bottle, glass, or flight. Recommended: Foie-gras BLT, baked artichoke, lamb rack with white-truffle creme brulee, chocolate cubed dessert. Open: Dinner Mon., Wed.-Sun. Entree prices $14.75-$29.75. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking weekends, no smoking.
TERRAGUSTO (star)(star) 1851 W. Addison St., 773-248-2777. Cute, modestly priced (and BYO) and attitude-free despite its strong commitment to organic, local products, Terragusto is a delightful neighborhood restaurant, particularly if this happens to be your neighborhood. Parking can be tricky around here, and don’t even think about visiting without a reservation, as Terragusto’s 28 seats fill up fast. Recommended: Mozzarella “in a carriage,” verde alla bolognese, stracci with mushrooms. Open: Dinner Wed-Sun., lunch Wed.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $13-$19. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: BYOB; no smoking.
TIMO (star)(star) 464 N. Halsted St., 312-226-4300. The eight-year-old French bistro Thyme has been transformed by chef/owner John Bubala into a rustic-Italian concept. Bubala continues to use his wood-burning rotisserie to great effect (particularly with chicken and lamb dishes), and one or two Thyme signatures remain on the menu, so the change won’t come as a shock to any long-time customers. Indeed, they’ll probably like most of the new dishes. Recommended: Parmesan shrimp in vanilla nage, prosciutto with organic ricotta, duck with polenta, pineapple cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
ZAPATISTA (star) 1307 S. Wabash Ave., 312-435-1307. This modestly ambitious South Loop restaurant takes its name from a Mexican revolutionary, but there’s nothing subversive about the menu, which sticks for the most part to tried-and-true staples, capably executed. Recommended: Sorpresa Veracruzano, scallops with tomatillo-avocado salsa, steak and lobster fajitas. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $8.99-$24.99. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
ZOCALO (star)(star) 358 W. Ontario St., 312-302-9977. The former Chilpancingo space has had its carnival colors muted to soothing earth tones, but Saul Roman’s Mexican cooking is plenty eye-opening on its own. Service is a bit by the numbers but keeps up with the speedy kitchen. Recommended: Guacamole trio, fish tacos, octopus ceviche, pork tenderloin, steak Oaxaqueno. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $14-$22. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
