When Ritz Tango Cafe first opened its doors on Ashland Avenue in West Town last summer, passersby would sometimes gawk at the well-dressed couples dancing in the windows.
“In the beginning, it was like: `What’s going on? What is that?'” recalled Jorge Niedas, the cafe’s Argentine-born owner. “But now you see people are passing and looking and waving to us. They come in and have a coffee and weave between the couples.”
As a matter of fact, many customers who pop in for a quick cup o’ joe later find themselves dancing alongside the charming, 40-something Niedas, who also serves as instructor for the cafe’s regular milongas, casual tango parties that happen here several times a week.
A major facet of tango culture in Buenos Aires, a milonga usually begins with a class or organized practice before an informal open dance session. Food, wine, coffee and socializing are typically given equal billing with the fancy footwork. And unlike a pretentious club or rigid dance school, those of varying skill levels are welcome to show off their moves and, if they wish, dance with multiple partners.
Call it the “Dancing With the Stars” effect–or chalk it up to a growing interest in tango, ballroom and other classical forms of dance and music worldwide–but the small dance floor at this corner java joint is packed most nights.
Dancing and noshing
On a recent Sunday evening, a half-dozen couples–from college students to retirees and several ethnicities–floated elegantly in front of the large storefront window, tracing figure-eights with their feet (a basic tango step called an ocho). Meanwhile, a small crowd huddled in the back near the counter, chatting and laughing while sipping coffee and snacking on alfajores, Argentine sugar cookies filled with decadent dulce de leche caramel.
Throughout the night, Niedas bounced from couple to couple providing patient instruction while Spanish-language crooning and the sounds of the violin and bandoneon (an Argentine accordion) filled the room.
More than just a party, milonga is also a specific style of tango music and dancing marked by a faster, more rhythmic tempo. Niedas incorporates many types of music into his events, including milonga, neo-tango (which might integrate tango rhythms with other musical traditions or add modern electronic beats), and the more orchestral-style tango from the early 20th Century golden age.
According to Niedas, a former professional ballet dancer who also offers private instruction and performs under his company Tango21, the musical variety and casual vibe at Ritz Tango Cafe all fit with his plan to translate for American audiences a beloved tradition from his native Buenos Aires.
When Niedas first considered opening up the coffeehouse/dance space several years ago, investors didn’t know what to make of the idea. So he and his wife, Dinah D’Antoni, saved their money to make the dream a reality.
“A lot of people in the neighborhood are saying they like us to be here,” he said, catching a breather between songs. “What could be wrong with dancing? You step on another guy’s foot, so what? It’s not how perfect the steps; it’s just enjoying what you’re doing with another person.”
Lydia Klein, 35, who lives just around the corner, is one of those neighborhood types hooked on tango. This was just her fourth visit, and she already seemed to know everyone in the room. That’s one byproduct of milongas: You get pretty friendly while dancing chest-to-chest for hours at a time. Plus, there are other benefits.
“When you want to take a break, you can talk to people,” Klein said. “Let’s say you go to a dancing school; you can’t just walk away and have a coffee. Here, you pay your $10 and go.”
No screaming required
Even those proficient in ballroom dance can be intimidated by tango’s free-form style–not to mention all those sexy leg hooks (called ganchos) that make tango seem like a very elegant game of Twister. But several brave first-timers, including Gus and Rosemary Kostopoulos from Downers Grove, dived in feet first.
“There’s a lot of subtlety you don’t realize,” said Gus, 33. “It’s good for couples, but if this catches on it could be good for singles too. You can talk here. It’s not like a club where you have to scream in someone’s ear.”
Burr Ridge resident Oksana Yershova, 27, a graceful dancer dressed in a flowing black skirt, often teams with Niedas for tango shows. And when the pair got together on the dance floor it was impossible to look anywhere else.
“Sometimes, people come in and sit down and start studying, and I see them look out of the corner of their eye and they forget about the computer,” said the Russian-born Yershova. “One lady the other day said: `Somebody, please ask me to dance.’ She couldn’t take it anymore.”
Friends Zack Borschuk and Hannah Zwibelman confessed that they probably should’ve been hitting the books but opted for a Sunday night milonga instead. For these Illinois Institute of Technology students, learning to tango proved the perfect distraction before finals.
“If you don’t know the right body positioning, it’s hard to follow,” said Zwibelman, 22. “The woman has to lean into the guy to feel if he’s stepping forward or if he’s going to step to the side. It’s a different experience, but we’re still working on it.
“I think we’re doing OK,” she said proudly, turning to Borschuk, 21: “What do you think?”
But before he could answer, the music kicked in and she pulled him back to the floor.
For more information on milongas, go to ritztangocafe.com or tangonoticias.com.
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5 Steps to good tango etiquette
For first-time milongueros, as attendees of a milonga tango party are referred to, here’s a primer on tango etiquette compliments of Jorge Niedas from Ritz Tango Cafe:
– At a milonga, couples always dance counterclockwise around the floor.
– To help avoid collisions, remain alert to the presence of fellow dancers from all sides.
– Consider dressing up a bit and wear leather-soled shoes. Many women wear heels; always make sure shoes fit properly.
– If you are learning a new step during a milonga, move to a distant corner of the dance floor so you don’t interrupt the flow.
– Typically, three songs are played in a row, followed by a short break.
– At some more traditional milongas, dancers may employ the cabeceo, a non-verbal technique for selecting partners using eye contact and head movements. If you feel a stare across the room and aren’t interested in dancing, simply look away; but once you return a nod, that means you’re ready to dance.
–R.O.
