Every Greek yiayia–or grandma–has a family recipe for pastitsio, that luscious Greek casserole made of pasta, ground meat and bechamel sauce. The best pastitsios–made by yiayias, of course–are harmonious and rich. Could we find this dish, prepared to yiayia’s standards, in a restaurant?
THE PLACE: Greek Islands
200 S. Halsted St.
312-782-9855
www.greekislands.net
THE STATS: $11.95
THE COMMENTS: The casserole: A massive brick of pastitsio arrives solo on a plate and slathered with tomato sauce. Would yiayia approve? No. Even the unorthodox smear of slightly-sweet tomato sauce couldn’t rev up this moist yet ho-hum pastitsio. The culprit? Under-seasoned ground beef crying out for more cinnamon, nutmeg, anything.
THE PLACE: Costas Greek Dining & Bar
340 S. Halsted St.
312-263-9700
www.costasdining.com
THE STATS: $12.45
THE COMMENTS: The casserole: Expect an enormous cube of pastitsio accompanied by a light tomato sauce. Would yiayia approve? A bit dry, a bit bland, and what’s with the tomato sauce? Home pastitsio recipes do not call for tomato sauce over the top, but here’s yet another restaurant spooning it on. This casserole, while flavorful, was a bit dry. More bechamel, more spices and more cheese, please.
THE PLACE: Opa Estiatorio
950 Lakeview Parkway, Vernon Hills
847-968-4300
www.oparestaurant.com
THE STATS: $10.95
THE COMMENTS: The casserole: The size of a small loaf of bread, this pastitsio could easily feed two hungry diners and comes, again, topped with tomato sauce. Would yiayia approve? This sumptuous dish is a contender for a thumbs-up from yiayia, thanks to the pillowy layer of creamy bechamel sauce and the meat, heavily seasoned with cinnamon and perhaps a bit of nutmeg. But order it without the jarring tomato sauce. Yiayia would not approve of that sauce.
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ttsouderos@tribune.com
