A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
AGAMI (star) 4712 N. Broadway, 773-506-1845. Red quilted-leather seating, moonscape wall treatments, video displays–is this a restaurant or an Epcot ride? Agami’s jazzed-up interiors are clearly intended to attract a younger set to this still-gentrifying stretch of Uptown, but those who stay for the sushi are apt to be impressed with the kitchen’s careful, sometimes playful concoctions. The few entrees on the menu tend to be hit-or-miss, but the sushi bar is very reliable. Recommended: Filet mignon spring roll, tuna-softshell maki, mackerel nigiri. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Prices: Maki rolls $12-$18. Credit cards: A. DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking weekends.
CAFE MATOU (star)(star)(star) 1846 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-384-8911. A 60-seat cafe with handsome oak French doors and eye-catching abstract art, this edge-of-Bucktown hangout is almost too comfortable to be a bistro, despite Charlie Socher’s excellent French cooking and neighborhood-friendly prices (augmented by a weekday $23 prix-fixe and other bargains). An ambitious wine program and well-informed service are icing on the cake. Recommended: Beet-rocket salad, gruyere-stuffed quail, blanquette de veau, parfait glace. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $17.75-$21.50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible (front entrance one step, back entrance available), no smoking.
THE CHICAGO FIREHOUSE (star)(star) 1401 S. Michigan Ave., 312-786-1401. Beyond the usual beefy litany at his South Loop chophouse, chef Caesar Reyes’ menu offers an ambitious list of seafood entrees and other surprises, such as frog legs over celery root. There’s a hefty wine list containing plenty of big names, but there’s a considerate number of affordable bottles as well. The building, a former firehouse (the brass poles are still on display) features a well-appointed and sedate white-tablecloth dining room, and a more boisterous bar space in front. Recommended: Frog legs, mini-crabcakes, ribeye steak, carrot cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $16-$64.99. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
CLAIM JUMPER (Satisfactory) 92 Yorktown Center, Lombard, 630-932-4290. Massive timbers and black-and-white photos of grizzled prospectors define the Gold Rush decor of this chain operation. The appetizer list is like a stroll down memory lane with its selection of mozzarella sticks and potato skins; the rest of the menu includes a hefty selection of burgers and sandwiches, plus larger steaks. It’s big, it’s noisy, and it’s usually packed, thanks in part to a speedy kitchen and a spotlessly clean interior. Recommended: Barbecued ribs and chicken combination. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $25.95-$29.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
DELACOSTA (star)(star)(star) 465 E. Illinois St., 312-464-1700. Douglas Rodriguez earned his “father of Nuevo Latino cuisine” label at his New York City restaurants in the ’90s, but his better-late-than-never 2006 arrival in River East shows that the chef still has fresh and original things to say. His vibrant ceviches, sliced and marinated to order, virtually sing with flavor and the rest of the menu sparkles with freshness and fun. Recommended: Rainbow ceviche, marlin tacos, shrimp chicharrones, churrasco, chocolate tres leches cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible (separate entrance), valet parking, no smoking.
DINE (star) 733 W. Madison St., 312-602-2100. A cheerful hotel restaurant with echoes of ’40s supper clubs in its decor, Dine offers an American menu steeped in familiarity but brightened with occasional moments of creativity. Its easy access to the Loop and UIC Pavilion make it a worthwhile pre-event option, and a raft of discounts (which change daily) make it a budget-friendly option as well. Recommended: Duo of mini-burgers, seared salmon over black rice, Malted Milk Mousses trio. Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet (with validation).
ENTOURAGE (star)(star) 1301 American Lane, Schaumburg, 847-995-9400. The cocktail-shaker-shaped front window is a clue to how seriously this sophisticated restaurant takes its beverage program, from its not-the-usual-suspects wine list to a cocktail list that includes $75-plus “luxury” blends (in a keepsake, hand-painted glass). But Entourage is serious about its food, an approachable, contemporary-American menu. There’s more solid execution than originality, but most dishes work fine. Recommended: Tuna tataki, macadamia tilapia, prime rib, white-chocolate cheesecake. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15.95-$42.95. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
FIXTURE (star) 2706 N. Ashland Ave., 773-248-3331. When is a small-plates restaurant not a small-plates restaurant? When it’s this year-old, 30-seat neighborhood spot, where chef Sarah Nelson cranks out portions that are about the size entrees would be if anybody listened to nutritionists’ advice. Choose judiciously among the three-dozen menu items, therefore, because three is all you’ll manage. Recommended: Chicken croquettes with caponata, chile-marinated lobster ceviche, suckling pig with habanero barbecue sauce, orange cheesecake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Prices: Small plates $6-$13. Credit cards: DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
GAMBA (star)(star) 455 E. 84th Drive, Merrillville, Ind., 219-736-5000. Gamba looks like a circular fortress from the outside but there’s charm to spare within, thanks to a Jordan Mozer design that arranges the dining room (and several private spaces) around an outdoor courtyard in the center. The menu seesaws between traditional Italian creations and wild flights of fancy by Chef Simon Floyd; the Italian choices are safest but some of the whimsical items work OK, too. The overpriced wine list and scarcity of interesting by-the-glass choices are minuses. Recommended: Eggplant with ground veal, braised rabbit with polenta, scallops with wasabi cream sauce. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $17-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in lounge only.
GINGER ASIAN BISTRO (star)(star) 15700 S. Harlem Ave., Orland Park, 708-633-1818. This south-suburban surprise has a chain-restaurant look (it’s a converted Damon’s Grill) and a chain-sounding name, but forget the packaging. Inside, you’ll find intriguing, generally well executed Asian fusion cuisine by chef Kelvin Cheung (whose father owns Chinatown’s Phoenix restaurant). Sometimes the chef’s ambition exceeds his grasp, but his occasional flashes of brilliance, as in his startling daikon ravioli, make the trip worthwhile. Recommended: Thai-curry crabcakes, five-spice calamari, lamb chops, ginger creme brulee. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., dim sum Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $12-$23. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
GRAZE (star)(star) 35 W. Ontario St., 312-255-1234. Chef Bob Zrenner and pastry chef Jordan Rappaport–two of the three principals behind the highly regarded X/O in Lake View–have taken their talents downtown, and the result is this delightful small-plates concept, wherein for the price of an upscale entree elsewhere, one can sample two to three compositions. There are one or two faint echoes of X/O nibbles on the Graze menu, but mostly Zrenner is up to new tricks, and just about all of them work. If only that goofy firewood-and-sunflower decor weren’t so distracting. Recommended: Celery-root tortellini with oxtail, trio of soups, bacon-wrapped meatloaf, caramelized cheesecake ravioli. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Prices: Small plates $6-$14. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
GRIDLEY’S BAR & GRILLE (star)(star) 4868 Ill. Hwy. 83, Long Grove, 847-478-3663. A reliable American restaurant that makes the extra effort, whether it be smoking its own meats and fish (in a detached smokehouse on the restaurant property) or touches such as complimentary valet parking. This isn’t going to become the northwest suburbs’ Next Big Thing, but for uncomplicated, good-value eating, it’s tough to beat. Recommended: Apple-onion soup, smokehouse chili, crabmeat-topped grouper, prime rib. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $11.95-$33.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
KODA (star)(star) 10352 S. Western Ave., 773-445-5632. Though owners Janice and Patrick Daley have been praised for opening this bistro in the restaurant-deprived Beverly neighborhood, the truth is that Koda would be a welcome addition just about anywhere. Chef Aaron Browning brings a lot of experience to a menu that incorporates French classics with more contemporary dishes, and just about everything sings. Service needs polish, but is certainly friendly and eager enough, and in addition to a handsome, understated dining room, there’s an adjacent lounge whose comforts are no doubt appreciated by the people waiting patiently (up to an hour on weekends) for a table. Recommended: Tart flambee, scallops over risotto, roasted salmon, chocolate-espresso cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.50-$27. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, no smoking.
MAY STREET MARKET (star)(star)(star) 1132 W. Grand Ave., 312-421-5547. This West Town charmer is a pure delight, from the inviting and beautiful physical space to chef/owner Alexander Cheswick’s clever seasonal-American menu, replete with novel flavor pairings and bereft of been-there-done-that combinations. The wine list, teeming with interesting choices, is priced very fairly, and offers most of its bottles at $40 or less. Recommended: Maytag bleu cheesecake, carrot-lemongrass soup, scallops over black orzo, white-chocolate semifreddo. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat. Entree prices: $18-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MEIJI (star)(star)(star) 623 W. Randolph St., 312-887-9999. Arguably Chicago’s finest Japanese restaurant, Meiji appeals to the sushi purist, offering ingredients that competitors disregard (such as fresh wasabi). The interior is frill-free but nevertheless attractive and comfortable, the sake offerings are impressive and even the desserts, which bear an unmistakable Western accent, are worth exploring. Recommended: Meiji gunkan, oysters kampai, hari roll, ginger creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Prices: Maki rolls $11-$16. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MOSAIC (star) 151 N. Joliet St., Joliet, 815-740-7800. Most casinos’ idea of fine dining is an expensive steakhouse, so credit Harrah’s Joliet Casino (which, admittedly, also is building a steakhouse) for this something-for-everyone restaurant, which isn’t overly fancy but is way nicer than any buffet. The dining room is wildly colorful and spacious, service is almost obsessively friendly and Lam Vongsakoun’s approachable menu still has room for some spicy dishes and the occasional flourish. It’s decent for the most part, and the desserts are especially good. Recommended: Pot stickers, flatiron steak, Key lime martini. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Sun. Entree prices: $13.95-$25.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet parking.
MULAN (Satisfactory), 2017 S. Wells St., level 2, 312-842-8282. An ambitious newcomer to the Chinatown neighborhood, Mulan is a beautiful, softly lit space offering novel land-and-sea, Asian-French pairings by chef/owner Kee Chan. The kitchen needs to overcome overcooking issues and service, albeit friendly and approachable, is still finding its way. The liquor license is also on its way, which will allow the restaurant to showcase its selection of Austrian, South African and Israeli wines. Recommended: Seared scallop with Chinese bacon, Tiger shrimp and mixed-green salad, sorbets. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
NICHE (star)(star)(star) 14 S. Third St., Geneva, 630-262-1000. Once there was a stellar contemporary-American restaurant in the Fox Valley called 302 West. When that restaurant was sold in spring 2006, its chef, wine directors and most of the other staffers banded together to open this cozy 72-seater a half-year later. Fans of the old 302 will find plenty of similarities in Niche’s scrupulously seasonal menu and unerring seafood preparations, but this impressive newcomer is definitely a new chapter for chef Jeremy Lycan, manager/sommelier Jody Richardson, and crew. Recommended: Smoked sturgeon, grouper with crawfish, roasted duck breast, chocolate assortment. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $27-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
NOMI (star)(star)(star)1/2 Park Hyatt Chicago, 800 N. Michigan Ave., 312-239-4030. This showpiece of the Hyatt hotel group is a very expensive restaurant, yet time and again Christophe David’s exquisite French cuisine and NoMI’s luxuriously appointed interior justify the tariff. NoMI’s dramatic seventh-floor views of the historic Water Tower and the surrounding cityscape are icing on the cake. Recommended: Truffle tart, veal loin with sweetbreads, turbot, Majari chocolate dome. Open: Dinner and breakfast Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $36-$50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
PANE CALDO (star)(star) 72 E. Walton St., 312-649-0055. Though it sits on one of the Gold Coast’s most tony streets, this 70-seat jewel is anything but ostentatious, though it’s comfortable enough (comically small restrooms aside). Veteran chef Maurice Bonhomme adds a French lilt to the nominally Italian menu, seen in his complimentary amuses and his complex, understated sauces. The wine list is broad and impressive. Recommended: Lobster mille-feuille, mushroom risotto, chocolate trio. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $31-$37; tasting menu $69-$95. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: No smoking.
REDSTONE AMERICAN GRILL (star) 13 Lincoln Ct., Oakbrook Terrace, 630-268-0313. Roaring gas fireplaces greet customers even before they reach the front doors of this Western-theme restaurant, including the flames dancing near the outdoor deck. The something-for-everyone-menu offers plenty of food for your dollars. Recommended: Flatbread pizzas, barbecued ribs, Parmesan-crusted halibut. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $16-$33. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
SEQUEL (star)(star)(star) 44 Yorktown Center, Lombard, 630-629-6560. Beset with mid-priced chain competitors, Steve Byrne closed his beloved Bistro Banlieue and remade it into a more upscale contemporary-American with fewer seats, white tablecloths, crystal stemware and other niceties. Free from the restrictions of the bistro label, chef Mark Downing is cooking with renewed vigor and creativity, and the addition of pastry chef Matthew Sayers has elevated the dessert selection considerably. Recommended: Diver scallop over braised oxtail, tiger shrimp with snow crab in miso broth, cashew panna cotta with curry sauce. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $18-$28; tasting menu $70. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
THE STAINED GLASS (star)(star)(star) 1735 Benson Ave., Evanston, 847-864-8600. Rarely do food and wine match so beautifully as they do at this North Shore stunner, where chef Victor Hernandez’ superb contemporary-American food is supported by a fine beverage program that offers wines by the bottle, glass, or flight. Recommended: Foie-gras BLT, baked artichoke, lamb rack with white-truffle creme brulee, chocolate cubed dessert. Open: Dinner Mon., Wed.-Sun. Entree prices $14.75-$29.75. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking weekends, no smoking.
TED’S MONTANA GRILL (Satisfactory) 1811 Tower Drive, Glenview, 847-729-1117. The “Ted” in this Rocky-Mountain-theme eatery is media mogul Ted Turner, and some of his farm-raised bison make it on the menu here, an attractive dining room with tiled floors and Mission-style furnishings. Nearly every steak and burger can be made with beef or bison, the latter leaner and milder in flavor but less-forgiving of overcooking (order your bison one level cooler than you customarily take it, to be safe). The ambitious beverage program includes boutique soft drinks as well as a price-friendly wine list. Recommended: Onion rings, Swiss burger, hangar steak. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $10.99-$23.99. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
ZAPATISTA (star) 1307 S. Wabash Ave., 312-435-1307. This modestly ambitious South Loop restaurant takes its name from a Mexican revolutionary, but there’s nothing subversive about the menu, which sticks for the most part to tried-and-true staples, capably executed. The fajitas are particularly good here, as are the daily specials, which typically outshine the everyday fare. Zapatista draws a good-sized after-5 crowd. Recommended: Sorpresa Veracruzano, steak and lobster fajitas. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $8.99-$24.99. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
ZOCALO (star)(star) 358 W. Ontario St., 312-302-9977. The former Chilpancingo space has had its carnival colors muted to soothing earth tones, but Saul Roman’s Mexican cooking is plenty eye-opening on its own. About three-quarters of the menu consists of small-plate dishes priced from $6-$9, though there are 10 entrees for those who prefer more traditional dining. Service is a bit by the numbers but keeps up with the speedy kitchen. Recommended: Guacamole trio, fish tacos, pork tenderloin, steak Oaxaqueno. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $14-$22. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
