A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
CAFE MATOU (star)(star)(star) 1846 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-384-8911. A 60-seat cafe with handsome oak French doors and eye-catching abstract art, this edge-of-Bucktown hangout is almost too comfortable to be a bistro, despite Charlie Socher’s excellent French cooking and neighborhood-friendly prices. An ambitious wine program and well-informed service are icing on the cake. Recommended: Beet-rocket salad, gruyere-stuffed quail, blanquette de veau, parfait glace. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $17.75-$21.50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible (front entrance one step, back entrance available), no smoking.
THE CHICAGO FIREHOUSE (star)(star) 1401 S. Michigan Ave., 312-786-1401. Beyond the usual beefy litany at his South Loop chophouse, chef Caesar Reyes’ menu offers an ambitious list of seafood entrees and other surprises, such as frog legs over celery root. There’s a hefty wine list containing plenty of big names, but there’s a considerate number of affordable bottles as well. The building, a former firehouse (the brass poles are still on display) features a well-appointed and sedate white-tablecloth dining room, and a more boisterous bar. Recommended: Frog legs, mini-crabcakes, ribeye steak, carrot cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $16-$64.99. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
DELACOSTA (star)(star)(star) 465 E. Illinois St., 312-464-1700. Douglas Rodriguez earned his “father of Nuevo Latino cuisine” label at his New York City restaurants in the ’90s, but his better-late-than-never 2006 arrival in River East shows that the chef still has fresh and original things to say. His vibrant ceviches, sliced and marinated to order, virtually sing with flavor and the rest of the menu sparkles with freshness and fun. Recommended: Rainbow ceviche, marlin tacos, shrimp chicharrones, churrasco, chocolate tres leches cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible (separate entrance), valet parking, no smoking.
FIXTURE (star) 2706 N. Ashland Ave., 773-248-3331. When is a small-plates restaurant not a small-plates restaurant? When it’s this year-old, 30-seat neighborhood spot, where chef Sarah Nelson cranks out portions that are about the size entrees would be if anybody listened to nutritionists’ advice. Choose judiciously among the three-dozen menu items, therefore, because three is all you’ll manage. Recommended: Chicken croquettes with caponata, chile-marinated lobster ceviche, suckling pig with habanero barbecue sauce, orange cheesecake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Prices: Small plates $6-$13. Credit cards: DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
GRAZE (star)(star) 35 W. Ontario St., 312-255-1234. Chef Bob Zrenner and pastry chef Jordan Rappaport–two of the three principals behind the highly regarded X/O in Lake View–have taken their talents downtown, and the result is this delightful small-plates concept, wherein for the price of an upscale entree elsewhere, one can sample two to three compositions. There are one or two faint echoes of X/O nibbles on the Graze menu, but mostly Zrenner is up to new tricks, and just about all of them work. If only that goofy firewood-and-sunflower decor weren’t so distracting. Recommended: Celery-root tortellini with oxtail, trio of soups, bacon-wrapped meatloaf, caramelized cheesecake ravioli. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Prices: Small plates $6-$14. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
KODA (star)(star) 10352 S. Western Ave., 773-445-5632. Though owners Janice and Patrick Daley have been praised for opening this bistro in the restaurant-deprived Beverly neighborhood, the truth is that Koda would be a welcome addition just about anywhere. Chef Aaron Browning brings a lot of experience to a menu that incorporates French classics with more contemporary dishes, and just about everything sings. Service needs polish, but is certainly friendly and eager enough, and in addition to a handsome, understated dining room, there’s an adjacent lounge whose comforts are no doubt appreciated by the people waiting patiently (up to an hour on weekends) for a table. Recommended: Tart flambee, scallops over risotto, roasted salmon, chocolate-espresso cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.50-$27. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, no smoking.
NICHE (star)(star)(star) 14 S. Third St., Geneva, 630-262-1000. Once there was a stellar contemporary-American restaurant in the Fox Valley called 302 West. When that restaurant was sold in spring 2006, its chef, wine directors and most of the other staffers banded together to open this cozy 72-seater a half-year later. Fans of the old 302 will find plenty of similarities in Niche’s scrupulously seasonal menu and unerring seafood preparations, but this impressive newcomer is definitely a new chapter for chef Jeremy Lycan, manager/sommelier Jody Richardson, and crew. Recommended: Smoked sturgeon, grouper with crawfish, roasted duck breast, chocolate assortment. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $27-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
NOMI (star)(star)(star)1/2 Park Hyatt Chicago, 800 N. Michigan Ave., 312-239-4030. This showpiece of the Hyatt hotel group is a very expensive restaurant, yet time and again Christophe David’s exquisite French cuisine and NoMI’s luxuriously appointed interior justify the tariff. NoMI’s dramatic seventh-floor views of the historic Water Tower and the surrounding cityscape are icing on the cake. Recommended: Truffle tart, veal loin with sweetbreads, turbot, Majari chocolate dome. Open: Dinner and breakfast Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $36-$50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
PANE CALDO (star)(star) 72 E. Walton St., 312-649-0055. Though it sits on one of the Gold Coast’s most tony streets, this 70-seat jewel is anything but ostentatious, though it’s comfortable enough (comically small restrooms aside). Veteran chef Maurice Bonhomme adds a French lilt to the nominally Italian menu, seen in his complimentary amuses and his complex, understated sauces. The wine list is broad and impressive. Recommended: Lobster mille-feuille, black-grouper ceviche, mushroom risotto, chocolate trio. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $31-$37; tasting menu $69-$95. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: No smoking.
SEQUEL (star)(star)(star) 44 Yorktown Center, Lombard, 630-629-6560. Beset with mid-priced chain competitors, Steve Byrne closed his beloved Bistro Banlieue and remade it into a more upscale contemporary-American with fewer seats, white tablecloths, crystal stemware and other niceties. Free from the restrictions of the bistro label, chef Mark Downing is cooking with renewed vigor and creativity, and the addition of pastry chef Matthew Sayers has elevated the dessert selection considerably. Recommended: Diver scallop over braised oxtail, cashew panna cotta with curry sauce. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $18-$28; tasting menu $70. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
THE STAINED GLASS (star)(star)(star) 1735 Benson Ave., Evanston, 847-864-8600. Rarely do food and wine match so beautifully as they do at this North Shore stunner, where chef Victor Hernandez’ superb contemporary-American food is supported by a fine beverage program that offers wines by the bottle, glass, or flight. Recommended: Foie-gras BLT, baked artichoke, lamb rack with white-truffle creme brulee, chocolate cubed dessert. Open: Dinner Mon., Wed.-Sun. Entree prices $14.75-$29.75. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking weekends, no smoking.
ZOCALO (star)(star) 358 W. Ontario St., 312-302-9977. The former Chilpancingo space has had its carnival colors muted to soothing earth tones, but Saul Roman’s Mexican cooking is plenty eye-opening on its own. About three-quarters of the menu consists of small-plate dishes priced from $6-$9, though there are 10 entrees for those who prefer more traditional dining. Service is a bit by the numbers but keeps up with the speedy kitchen. Recommended: Guacamole trio, fish tacos, steak Oaxaqueno. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $14-$22. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
