Two humongo restaurants opened recently: Room 21 in the South Loop and Alhambra Palace in the Warehouse District. They couldn’t be more different. One’s American. One’s North African/Moroccan/French. But they do share over-the-top interiors, sizzlin’ scenes and more buzz than a hive full of honeybees. We checked them both out during their opening weekends; here’s how they compare.
ROOM 21 / ALHAMBRA PALACE
OWNER
Jerry Kleiner, who brought you Red Light, Gioco, Opera and Carnivale.
Dr. Naser Rustom, who brought you the now-closed Souk.
his inspiration
A gangland-era Chicago whorehouse.
Our take: The space was once an Al Capone brewery, complete with escape tunnels. Today, it looks like a hangout for the velvet mafia.
The Alhambra, the Moorish fortress in Granada, Spain.
Our take: “All I can think is Epcot Center,” said one of my dining companions. Yes, or Medieval Times, Moroccan edition.
the food
Chef Aaron Whitcomb’s menu of classic American fare shows competence and touches of flair. There are five steaks on the menu, including a 21-ounce ribeye. The heavily American wine list is lengthy and offers some great, affordable picks.Our take: The kitchen’s off to a good start, but despite some ingenious updates (risotto crab cakes, $12), don’t expect much you haven’t seen before.
Must-try: Creamy parmesan corn with a crispy baked crust ($7); beet salad ($8)
Chef Eric Aubriot’s menu will have a French-Moroccan twist (think lobster ravioli with sauteed crab, mushrooms, roasted garlic and parsley in a lobster broth, $18). The full menu debuts this week. Right now, it’s basically Middle Eastern/North African greatest hits like kabobs and tagines.Our take: The best kabobs in Chicago: flavorful, juicy, delicious. But bring your patience; service at a place this size is a work in progress.Must-try: Filet kabob ($28, entree size)
How over-the-top is it?
After Carnivale, Kleiner’s megapopular pan-Latin spot, the scale seems almost restrained. The 6,000-square-foot interior, combined with a 6,000-square-foot garden (opening next week) can seat up to 300.
Our take: This is Kleiner’s “Spider-Man 3.” Yeah, you’ve basically seen it before — the colors! the fabrics! — but, you know you can’t resist the latest twist.
Every surface of the 24,000-square-foot space — the walls, the columns, the chairs — is covered in tile mosaics, pressed tin or intricately woven fabric. There are five rooms, including the Alhambra room with 35-foot-high ceilings and a stage for performers and belly dancers. Our take: Subtle? No. Relaxing? No. Un-real? You bet. It’s not the real Alhambra, but this one makes a better martini.
potted palms
Three, about 10 feet tall. Live.
Two 30-footers. Artificial.
the scene
This isn’t a restaurant, it’s a party. South Loop hipsters mingled in the lounge. Kleiner glad-handed the room. The pop music was turned up loud, but we were able to carry on a conversation.
Bridal showers peered over the terrace to the floor show below. Hookah smokers leaned back in their chairs, belts loosened. If you’re eating dinner, you’re better off at a table, but if you’re there for drinks and mezes (appetizers), snag a cushy booth upstairs. Want to focus on the food? Ask for the formal dining room.
Local celeb sightings
Brian Urlacher
One of the Walter E. Smithe brothers
Women wearing leopard-print pumps
0 / 2
Petty annoyance
Men’s john opens up to the lounge — hey, Al Capone history or not, I wasn’t planning to show my Dillinger!
The front doors slam shut every time someone enters. After waiting for friends in the front lounge, our nerves were shot.
What you’re saying on metromix.com
“We recommend [it], but keep your expectations in check.” — JOSH
“Pretend Jasmine and Aladdin are coming to rescue you … way overdone” — Natalie
———-
clamorte@tribune.com
