With imposing Byzantine architecture, richly decorated Ottoman-era Topkapi Palace, majestic Islamic mosques with elegant minarets stretching up to the sky and the labyrinthine Grand Bazaar, Old Istanbul, or Sultanahmet, has enough to occupy visitors for several days.
But once you’ve seen the sights and want to enjoy a drink at a hip bar, eat a good meal, shop or see some art, Sultanahmet holds little appeal. So where do urban travelers longing to discover “cool” Istanbul go?
Nisantasi
They cross the Galata Bridge above the beautiful Bosporus Strait and go to chic Nisantasi, where wonderful window-shopping awaits. Once favored by Ottoman-era sultans, Nisantasi is home to Istanbul’s media and fashion crowd. While the sultans flaunted their style with embroidered caftans and silk turbans, hip young Turks wear the latest designer threads from boutiques cramming Nisantasi’s narrow streets, like Ottoman Empire (59/1 Sakayik Sokak; www.ottoman empiretshirts.com), featuring T-shirts incorporating Ottoman motifs, Islamic calligraphy and Turkish pop symbols.
A five-minute taxi ride away, the Istanbul Modern (011-90-212-334-7300; www.istanbulmodern.org) is the city’s first museum of contemporary art. In a breezy renovated waterfront warehouse, this sleek gallery has a permanent collection of Turkish and international art from the past century, along with adventurous temporary exhibitions and a cafe with stunning views.
Cukurcuma/Cihangir
From here, meander uphill to the intriguing bohemian quarters of Cukurcuma and Cihangir. Too few travelers trawl these hilly lanes, with their fascinating shops, like The Time Tunnel (80 Turnacibasi Caddesi). Crammed with retro collectibles, from cool lamps to airline shoulder bags, this groovy store shares the “hood” with jewelry ateliers and up-and-coming fashion designers. It wouldn’t be out of place in San Francisco, except for the distinctly Turkish details.
Cihangir has what every boho area attracting a creative crowd needs, a laid-back cafe. Light and breezy Leyla (011-212-244-5350; Akarsu Caddesi 46) is the place to pull up a red leather stool at the central bar and sip a local Efes beer.
Istiklal Caddesi
Farther up the hill is pedestrian-friendly Istiklal Caddesi in the bustling suburb of Beyoglu. While the steep street is lined with boutiques, bookshops and record stores, the alleyways and arcades are more intriguing. Atlas Pasaji is a funky version of a Parisian-style “passage.” Popular with Istanbul’s nocturnal hipsters, its boutiques sell quirky handmade fashion and jewelry, retro/pre-loved gear and interesting music. Posters promote the latest gigs, club nights and performances, making it a good place to find out what’s going down — ask for a tip and you’ll probably be invited out that night.
At the end of Istiklal Caddesi on Tunel Square, near the music-shop area, refuel at KaffeeHaus ( www.kaffeehaus-istanbul.com) before climbing Galata Tower for spectacular city views. The first contemporary cafe to open in the area, KaffeeHaus attracts a cool clientele and the occasional expat and traveler. Nearby, eclectically decorated House Cafe ( www.thehousecafe.com.tr) buzzes at night when the media crowd converges and ratchets up the music and energy a few notches. Wash down their rustic pizzas with good Turkish wine.
When visitors ask locals if Istanbul is really the coolest city in the world, the first words uttered are usually “360 Istanbul” (32-309 Istiklal Caddesi; 011-90-212-251-1042). With celebrity owners, achingly hip decor and a buzz as loud as a swarm of bees, this is where locals take visitors to show them that Istanbul has arrived in style. The international menu is underwhelming, but the atmosphere is unmatched. In a 19th Century Istiklal Caddesi apartment block, the space is fabulous and city vistas stupendous.
Sunset special
Our favorite spot to watch an Istanbul sunset is with the locals-only crowd at On Numara 10, a funky eatery hidden among the fish restaurants under Galata Bridge. There’s nothing like ending a day by sinking into a colorful beanbag, listening to smooth sounds, with nargileh, a water pipe, in hand, while you watch the sun go down over the Golden Horn. Now that is cool.
WHERE TO EAT: Next door to House Cafe, KV Cafe (Tunel Gecidi 10 www.kv.com.tr) is an eclectically decorated bar, bistro and meyhane (traditional Turkish cafe) occupying several idiosyncratic spaces. Its Anatolian meze and Turkish comfort food is delicious.
WHERE TO STAY: Alternatives to Sultanahmet sleeps include Nisantasi’s The Sofa (011-90-212-368-1818; www.thesofahotel.com; doubles from $250), a stylish new boutique hotel or, nearby, the minimalist Bentley Hotel (011-90-212-291-7730; www.bentley-hotel.com; doubles $70-$200).
GETTING THERE AND AROUND: Turkish Airlines (800-874-8875; www.thy.com) flies to Istanbul from more than a dozen U.S. cities, including Chicago. From Ataturk Airport, a taxi to Nisantasi will cost you about $25 and take 20 to 30 minutes, depending on traffic. Taxis around the city will rarely cost you more than $10.
