Uniworld Grand River Cruises promised this: “An evening at the Beijing Opera.”
Here’s what it was: A performance of the Beijing Opera at the lovely Liyuan Theatre, with a big cast — I counted 14 people, including tumblers — in full makeup and costume, large traditional orchestra, effective backdrops and simultaneous English translations flashed on electronic boards (some hilarious, but never mind that), plus free tea and cookies.
Viking River Cruises promised this: “A wonderful performance of the Peking Opera.”
Here’s what it was: Three performers (also in full makeup and costume) from the Peking Opera of China on a makeshift stage set up in a hotel meeting room, a small traditional orchestra, no translations, no tea, no cookies.
I know. I saw them both . . . proving what you get, even from quality tour companies, isn’t always what you wish for.
With Beijing literally building toward its 2008 Summer Olympics — 100 hotels, we’re told, are being added to the 600 already here — this seemed a good time to take a look at a couple of options for touring China.
Our method: Back-to-back tours offered by two well-known, well-regarded companies — Viking, renowned for its European river cruises; and Uniworld, sister to London-based Trafalgar, the venerable coach-tour provider.
(There are dozens more companies to choose from. Two was our limit. We have a budget.)
Now, there are other ways to see China than on packaged, fully escorted tours. While the tours generally stick to the basic crowd-pleasing destinations, it’s a huge country: Lonely Planet’s China guidebook has nearly 800 pages on places to visit, and only about 200 of those pages deal with beaten-track Beijing, Xian and Shanghai.
Moreover, in today’s less-restrictive China, experienced and innovative travelers can do most of it on their own. Even language and signage aren’t the barriers they were: Increasingly, signs are readable to Westerners and, especially in Beijing and Shanghai, there’s no shortage of young people eager to speak with you in English. Many, of course, will be trying to sell you something you may not want (Rolex knockoffs, bad art, in-room massages), but, hey . . .
The reality remains, however, that when we’re dealing with China, there’s something both comforting and efficient in leaving the planning and pacing to experts.
“If it’s your first time here,” said veteran traveler Susan Eisele of Casa Grande, Ariz., wearing a Viking name tag at the Great Wall, “that’s what you should do.”
Our two tours:
The Uniworld “Classic China”: eight nights’ lodging over what has evolved into the standard mainland China itinerary — Beijing, Xian (for the Terra Cotta Soldiers) and Shanghai, plus stops in Suzhou and Tongli, two historic cities a couple of hours’ drive from Shanghai. Published price (per person, double occupancy, not including airfare from the U.S. and subject to change): $1,798. 800-733-7820; www .uniworld.com.
The Viking “Imperial Jewels of China”: 10 lodging nights, the standard itinerary plus four nights aboard the Viking Century Sky on the Yangtze River. Published price (same rules and cautionary): $2,779. 877-668-4546; www.vikingriver cruises.com.
We’ll look at these two experiences in detail — but first, a brief disclaimer:
We’re going to be critical of some things here, but that’s because we have something to compare them to. Almost all the folks on the tours, who didn’t know what they were missing, went home very happy.
Of course, wait till they read this . . .
IN THE WEB EDITION
– Alan Solomon narrates a China video.
– Take the China Challenge.
chicagotribune.com/chinatours
