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When I heard that a friend of mine, Jan Boyer, was flying to visit his mother in her native Spain, I asked him to bring me back something from his trip — his mother’s recipe for Sangria. Boyer soon sent me an e-mail from his mom’s house, where a heated debate on the merits of competing recipes had just ended. Also visiting Boyer’s mother was an old friend of hers from Mexico, where sangria is a quite different concoction than it is in Spain. The recipe championed by Jan’s mom was solidly in the Spanish tradition — wine, brandy, assorted sweet fruits, sugar and soda. Her friend insisted on wine, lime and sugar. Who was right? We’ll see.

MAKE YOUR OWN SANGRIA

Spanish sangria

* Ingredients

1 bottle Spanish Grenache wine

2 ounces Spanish brandy

2 ounces Cointreau

2 ounces peach liqueur

1 peach, 1 green apple, and 1 orange, all peeled and diced

1 pinch ground cinnamon

6 ounces orange juice

4 ounces Sprite or 7UP

* Directions

Combine brandy, Cointreau and peach liqueur in a pitcher.

Add fruit.

Soak fruit in the liquor mixture for up to a day.

When ready to serve, add wine, cinnamon, orange juice and soda. Pour over ice into tumblers.

Mexican sangria

* Ingredients

Half a bottle of good Spanish red wine

Juice of 3 limes

The peel of one lime, grated

2 tablespoons sugar

* Directions

Combine in a pitcher with a dozen ice cubes, and let sit until all the ice is melted.