Update: mk
I suppose there’s a chance that someday I’ll get a bad meal at mk, but I don’t expect it to happen soon. The restaurant, launched by Michael Kornick in 1999, is going as strong as ever, and Kornick’s current executive chef, Erick Simmons, looks like a major talent.
The 28-year-old Simmons comes from the highly regarded Bradley Ogden at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas (I had a terrific meal there in November), which shares mk’s passion for local and seasonal ingredients. On board for just about seven months, Simmons is proving to be a great fit for mk. A recent meal was highlighted by Simmons’ salad of white asparagus with a yummy poached egg, and a marvelously intense, cream-free asparagus soup in which lurked three impossibly plump mussels. Other knockout dishes included thinly sliced hamachi sashimi, sprinkled with a bit of salt and lemon vinaigrette and strewn with shaved fennel and fennel pollen; and a thick and juicy Berkshire pork chop with roasted fingerlings.
I took it easy on dessert, but couldn’t resist the Soda-licious, a ginger-ale ice cream soda with scoops of coconut sorbet, bing-cherry frozen yogurt and passion fruit gelato. And it’s nice to hear that pastry chef Kate Neumann is back in the kitchen, after a nasty car accident that had sidelined her for three months.
I gave mk three stars back in 1999, and it’s easily worthy of that rating today.
mk, 868 N. Franklin St.; 312-482-9179
— Phil Vettel
First bite: Sura
If you don’t mind feeling like you’ve drifted onto the set of Woody Allen’s “Sleeper,” you can chow on some pretty tasty Thai/pan-Asian food at 2-month-old Sura. With its nearly all-white interior, ultra-modern design and egg-shaped swinging lounge chairs, the room tends to inspire adoration or eye rolling from those looking through its huge storefront windows. Whilea hipster decor can double your bill at some trendy ethnic restaurants, here the prices remain fairly reasonable — even a bargain at lunch.
We recently stopped by for a noon meal of “face towel noodle” (kind of like thick pad siew noodles in a tomato-y sauce) and chicken penang curry with bamboo shoots and peas. Sure, they didn’t taste much different than the version at our neighborhood Thai place. But, at $7 a plate they were also comparably priced if not cheaper — and Sura offers a complimentary appetizer with each lunch entree.
We tried the grilled teriyaki calamari with mushrooms. It had very few signs of actual grilling but we enjoyed the sweet and salty tangle of tender tentacles over pleasantly earthy fingers of fungi. Another starter of taro egg rolls is served sprouting out of carrot dip-filled shot glasses. While striking to look at, they proved disappointing — just a few tiny cubes in a log of egg roll skin. Still, with lunch for two at about $20 before tip, it was hard to complain.
Small plate dinner options (all under $6) include inventive-sounding twists on Asian fare including crispy ginger calamari with avocado-green onion emulsion, beef salad marinated in Thai whiskey, and seared scallops with a whole grain mustard reduction.
Sure, the Euro-techno that pumps through the speakers and the waiter’s interesting habit of tearing off the wrapper off the chopsticks then presenting them to you like golden scepters rather than pull-apart sticks can be a bit much. But especially while Sura is still BYO, it offers an inventive and affordable spin on the Thai experience.
Sura, 3124 N. Broadway; 773-248-7872
— Monica Eng
Site to see: Tiramisu
I like tiramisu. Sometimes I even love it. But my affection for this popular Italian dessert comes nowhere near Craig Myamoto’s. His Web site, “Tiramisu: Heaven in Your Mouth” ( www.heavenlytiramisu.com), celebrates — no, worships — this delectable combination of ladyfingers and mascarpone.
There are oodles of recipes in four categories: basic, variety, healthy (I’m not touching those) and cake. There are testimonials. There are reviews. There are links. It’s just one, big, caloric lovefest. Abbondanza!
And we love the fact that Craig, who grew up in Hawaii and describes himself online as a “self-styled tiramisu gourmet,” discovered his obsession right here in Chicago: July 1994 at Carlucci. His site has been around since 1997 and seems to still be going strong.
— Renee Enna
