PILSEN IS A GREAT PLACE FOR A SUMMER DAY OF STROLLING. Two areas are especially interesting. Friendly, casual 18th Street is full of surprises and is a fascinating avenue to explore for kids and adults. And South Halsted Street is packed with storefront art galleries and is home to a cafe that serves some of the best tres leches cake in the city. We asked two Pilsen fans — Carlos Tortolero, president of the National Museum of Mexican Art, and Cynthia West, director of Chicago Arts District — for their neighborhood favorites, then we organized them into easy walking tours.
TOUR 1
A kid-friendly walking tour
GUIDE: CARLOS TORTOLERO
President of the National Museum of Mexican Art
With its fun stores, snow-cone vendors, friendly restaurants and bright murals, Pilsen is a natural for a family outing. This walking tour starts at the National Museum of Mexican Art, cuts across Harrison Park with its many push-cart vendors then heads east on 18th Street, a thoroughfare crammed with interesting nooks selling fare at hard-to-beat prices.
Start on West 19th Street, between South Wolcott Street and South Wood Street
STOP 1
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF MEXICAN ART
1852 W. 19th St.; 312-738-1503, www.nationalmuseumofmexicanart.org
What it is: One of the nation’s largest Latino arts institutions, the museum houses a collection of Mexican art from artists such as Frida Kahlo, Ester Hernandez and Diego Rivera. It also has a fantastic gift shop.
Check out: The exhibition of “contemporary icons” by Chicago artist Javier Chavira.
STOP 2
HARRISON PARK
1824 S. Wood St.; 312-746-5491, www.chicagoparkdistrict.com
What it is: Located behind the National Museum of Mexican Art, this park is popular with kids and families and is also home to many street-food vendors.
Check out: Elote (about $1.50), which is roasted corn on the cob or cut from the cob and served in a Styrofoam cup then sprinkled with tasty toppings.
STOP 3
ST. ADALBERT CHURCH
1650 W. 17th St.; 312-226-0340
What it is: An opulent Catholic church, designed by Henry J. Schlacks, with a rich immigrant history
Tortolero’s take: “It’s one of the largest churches in Chicago. It’s very important to see.”
Check out: The church’s soaring twin 185-foot towers and intricate marble work
STOP 4
LA CEBOLLITA GRILL
1807 S. Ashland Ave.; 312-492-8443
What it is: Opened in March, this bright-orange BYOB restaurant serves plates of tasty Mexican food and is known for its sopes.
Tortolero’s take: “Its name means ‘little onion.’ It’s very nicely done, this restaurant.”
Check out: Savory sopes K ($2 each) — rounds of masa (cornmeal dough) topped with meat, cheese, lettuce and other fixings. We loved the cecina sopes (topped with strips of salted steak) and delectable sopes al pastor, which come with juicy, flavorful marinated pork.
STOP 5
REVOLVER RECORDS
1524 W. 18th St.; 312-226-4211
What it is: A vinyl collector’s haven with scores of hard-tofind albums in many genres, from house to hip hop to rock.
Check out: What’s your fancy? “Kommunicator” by Five Deez ($13.99) or Led Zeppelin IV ($49.99)?
STOP 6
DAVE’S ICE CREAM SHOP AND ITALIAN LEMONADE
1451 W. 18th St. (no phone
What it is: A tiny storefront sweet-treat shop.
Check out: Order up a scoop of guanabana Italian ice ($1 for a small), a sweet, mellow concoction that will hit the spot.
STOP 7
CAFE JUMPING BEAN
1439 W. 18th St.; 312-455-0019
What it is: A hipster hangout with art on the walls and munchies and coffee to sip while working on a laptop.
Tortolero’s take: “The ambience is very artsy and Pilsen-like.”
Check out: A hot ham focaccia sandwich ($5.10) served on tomato focaccia bread with fresh tomatoes, peppers, onions and chips or pasta on the side.
STOP 8
MESTIZA
1010 W. 18th St.; 312-563-0132, www.mestizachicago.com
What it is: A small storefront selling a mishmash of fun items, from totes emblazoned with artist Frida Kahlo’s face and handmade jewelry to T-shirts and secondhand clothes, shoes and bags.
Check out: The fun, unique milagros ($2 each), which are Mexican religious charms. Mestiza has hearts, people kneeling in prayer, legs, images of the Virgin of Guadalupe and angels.
TOUR 2
An art lover’s walking tour
GUIDE: CYNTHIA WEST
Director of Chicago Arts District
East Pilsen, particularly South Halsted Street, is chock-a-block with small storefront art galleries, most open on Fridays and Saturdays or by appointment only (so call ahead if you want to see a particular gallery). The tour kicks off on South Halsted at the corner of West 19th Street and heads straight north on Halsted, past gallery after gallery, ending at two dining options that earn raves from West. Feet weary from all of that walking?
There’s also a spa offering myriad ways to pamper those toes.
Start your tour at South Halsted Street and West 19th Place
STOP 1
4 ART
1932 S. Halsted St.; 312-850-1816,www.4artinc.com
What it is: A large gallery filled with contemporary art and, uniquely, clothing that’s displayed as art.
West’s take: “It’s run by Robin Rios. She’s trying to introduce fashion alongside the visual arts. It’s very interesting.”
Check out: Work by Iowa artist Mary Kline-Misol, who creates emotional abstract acrylic paintings.
STOP 2
VESPINE GALLERY
1907 S. Halsted St.; www.vespine.org, vespinegallery@yahoo.com
What it is: An appointment only storefront gallery specializing in art made with paper.
West’s take: “They show a lot of younger artists. I really enjoy their shows. They are always interesting and well-thoughtout.”
Check out: Intricate handmade paper art by New York artist Yoon Shin Park.
STOP 3
DUBHE CARRENO GALLERY
1841 S. Halsted St.; 312-666-3150, www.dubhecarrenogallery.com
What it is: An art gallery showcasing contemporary ceramics.
West’s take: Gallery director Dubhe Carreno “brings in the work of a lot of artists from Chicago and also from other Central and South American artists. She has beautiful pieces.”
Check out: Whimsical, dreamlike works by Mexico-born artist Diana Solis, who now lives in Chicago.
STOP 4
CHOCOLATE FOR YOUR BODY
1743 S. Halsted St.; 312-226-0777, www.chocolateforyourbody.com
What it is: A full-service spa featuring many ways to slather your body with chocolate. Indulge in the Signature Pedicure ($69), which includes exfoliation with an organic Peruvian chocolate sugar scrub.
STOP 5
PICANTE GRILL
1626 S. Halsted St.; 312-455-8500, www.picantegrill.net
What it is: A bright and cheerful Mexican restaurant with a big selection of tequilas.
West’s take: “The food is excellent. They have wonderful guacamole. They also show a lot of beautiful artwork.”
Check out: The arrachera arriera ($16.95 at lunch), skirt steak with potatoes al ajillo, grilled scallions and chayote in a cilantro cream salsa. And don’t forget to get the guacamole ($7.50).
STOP 6
KRISTOFFER’S CAFE AND BAKERY
1733 S. Halsted St.; 312-829-4150, www.kristofferscafe.com
What it is: A cheerful hangout with great coffee and a famous version of tres leches cake.
West’s take: “I am not a cake lover, but I discovered their tres leches cake and I adore it. I buy them any time I have a reason to.”
Check out: Is there any choice, really? The tres leches cake ($4.25 a slice) is moist, sweet and somehow light all at once.
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ttsouderos@tribune.co
