Walk through any spa or drugstore and you can see ionic technology claims emblazoned on everything from hair dryers to conditioners. Billed as the latest, greatest styling innovation, ionic technology is gaining ground in drugstore aisles. Some experts say ionic products produce smoother, silkier, healthier hair, but others are less convinced.
“I always recommend ionic because so far it’s the best technology for hair,” says Dominic Barbar, president of Barbar Artist Inc., a Beverly Hills, Calif.-based styling company that manufactures ionic flat irons, hair dryers, hair treatments and more. “Ionic technology adds moisture to hair. When you add moisture, hair is softer and less frizzy.”
Mark Katz, a stylist at Siren Salon in Lakeview with 20 years’ experience, is less bullish.
“Ionic products definitely work, and I think any way you can avoid excess damage to your hair is a good thing,” he says. “But if ionic products were that brilliant, everyone would be using them. And while we’re using them, it’s not as much as the push would have you believe.”
Marianne Dougherty, editor in chief of American Salon, an industry magazine, says ionic products have taken off in the past five years in part because of hairstyle trends, especially the silky smooth, straight look. “You’re doing less time applying heat, and the hair looks shinier and silkier,” she says. “As straight hair became a trend, people wanted to do that at home.”
Here’s the basic premise, according to ionic proponents: Positively charged impurities — dirt, smoke, product buildup — in hair cause damage and frizz, among other nuisances. Ionic tools use minerals, such as tourmaline, to introduce a negative charge that bonds with opposing charges. This bond splits water molecules into smaller molecules that can penetrate the hair shaft to condition, moisturize and ultimately seal the hair shaft. The more moisturized and conditioned the hair, the softer and shinier it looks.
Are we all one ionic product away from a great hair day? We selected seven products and asked for comments from a panel of experts: Barbar; Katz; Brenda Berry, owner of Brilli Salon, A Style Lounge on Ashland Avenue; and Ernie McCraw, director of beauty education at Sally Beauty Supply in Denton, Texas.
Andis Elevate Tourmaline Ionic AC hair dryer
$41.95 at andis.com or K.A. Vogel Sons, 2215 N. Milwaukee Ave, Chicago, 773-235-5336
The pitch: Use the Andis dryer instead of a traditional hair dryer and locks will be repaired, revitalized, softer, smoother and shinier.
The science: Tourmaline crystals coat the dryer’s outlet grill. Heat from the dryer triggers the tourmaline to release negative ions into the heated air stream. The negative ions help preserve moisture and eliminate frizz by splitting water molecules into micro-fine particles that penetrate the hair shaft.
The experts: “Andis is a good product line, and tourmaline is one of the main minerals used in almost all ionic products,” Katz says. “I’ve definitely noticed a difference when using ionic hair dryers. The cuticle is much smoother and hair looks smoother.”
McCraw agrees, adding that ionic hair dryers work more quickly by reducing the size of water droplets: “It takes my wife 25 to 30 minutes to dry her hair with a regular dryer and 15 minutes with an ionic dryer.”
Revlon 1-inch Tourmaline Heat Ionic Nano Ceramic straightener
$44.99 in drugstores
The pitch: Revlon’s ionic straightener increases shine, softness and manageability.
The science: Tourmaline crystals emit hair-conditioning negative ions while ceramic plates evenly distribute heat.
The experts: “Ceramic straighteners work on the surface of the hair to take any additional moisture out,” McCraw says. “They seal the cuticle layer down and [act] as a sealing agent, making hair shinier and silkier.” Berry agrees: “Ceramic plates and tourmaline technology distribute heat better, so this product will be healthier for hair. But I don’t think it will condition hair.”
Bio Ionic Super-Hydrator Series Intensive Moisturizing Shampoo
$16 at Salon Buzz, 310 W. Superior St., Chicago, 312-943-5454
The pitch: Use Bio Ionic’s Super-Hydrator Intensive Moisturizing Shampoo to “flood thirsty hair with moisture and protein” and add strength, shine and manageability.
The science: The shampoo features a “supercharged natural ion complex,” made from a blend of micro-milled Japanese minerals. The negatively charged ion complex bonds with positively charged impurities in hair to create smoother hair cuticles and accelerate the absorption of water molecules by up to 58 percent.
The experts: “I’m sure it’s beneficial and I’m sure it’s moisturizing, but I don’t know of a single shampoo that’s not negatively charged,” Katz says. “I don’t think you’ll get as many benefits from the ions in it — elements need to be heated in some way to activate the ions.”
Repelle Skin Shield Wand
$4.99 at Walgreens.com and select Walgreens locations
The pitch: Apply Repelle’s Skin Shield Wand to the hairline before home dying to keep skin clean and soft and form an “invisible barrier” against harsh chemical stains.
The science: Hair and skin have a negative ionic charge. Hair dye has a positive charge that enables it to adhere to hair. Repelle’s shield uses a derivative of rapeseed oil to form a positively charged barrier that repels positively charged hair dye.
The experts: “I definitely think that Repelle could work really well,” Berry says. “A lot of things can shield the color from staining, so I don’t see why this wouldn’t.” McCraw agrees, adding: “When hair is colored, cuticles are raised [so color can penetrate cortex], and no matter what you do after, the cuticle is slightly raised, making hair look frizzy and damaged. Ionic technologies flatten cuticles and helps to seal them down.”
ISH Ionic Rescue One Minute Treatment
$27.50 for 6 ounces at frizzy2silky.com
The pitch: Apply ISH’s Ionic Rescue One Minute Treatment to clean, towel-dried hair. Leave in for a minute then style as usual with hair dryer, straightener or other heating device. Dry and damaged locks will become silky and lustrous — results last up to two weeks.
The science: The product features an ionic hair renewal complex. Heat (from the hair dryer or other tool) dissolves the crystals and allows them to penetrate hair shaft, form a moisture molecule and, later, seal the hair shaft shut.
The experts: “This is your best bet if you want the max benefits from an ion-type product,” Katz says. “Heat activates the crystals to release the ions.”
Spornette Prego large round hairbrush
$15 at amazon.com
The pitch: Replace regular hairbrushes with the Spornette Prego and enjoy extra moisture, decreased frizz and increased elasticity and shine.
The science: The Prego’s nylon bristles are treated with negative ion powders (gleaned from tourmaline and other natural elements). When the brush strokes hair, negative ions are released, breaking up liquid molecules into smaller molecules that penetrate hair strands to repair and refresh.
The experts: “I’m sure this works great when it’s new, but as the brush gets older, the powder will wear out — brushes don’t have a permanent shelf life,” Katz says. “Ionic brushes help seal the cuticle down,” McCraw explains. “They work better with heat [because heat activates the ions], but even without it, using an ionic brush makes hair almost feel like it’s got a light conditioner.”
