If you like the versatility of salsa, this story’s for you.
If you like the complexity of chutney, this story’s for you.
And if the idea of putting by summer’s beautiful fruits and vegetables so you’ll be able to enjoy them on a blustery mid-winter day appeals to you, this story is definitely for you.
Chefs and other food professionals understand that complex flavors can be built one ingredient at a time. Having a pantry stocked with homemade sauces, chutneys, ketchups and other such savory preserves means that even a grilled chicken breast won’t taste the same two nights in a row. Savory preserves — more complex in flavor than simple jellies and jams — can be your key to a fanciful and effortless supper later if you’ll exert a little effort now.
From tomato sauces to curried fruit compote, recipes like these transform seasonal produce into something spectacular. Once you’ve got it in the cupboard, its use is limited only by your imagination.
The Colonists made ketchups of various types from mushroom to walnut, according to early cookbooks like Hannah Glasse’s “The Art of Cookery,” published in 1747. More contemporary resources, like “The Ball Blue Book: Guide to Home Canning, Freezing and Dehydration,” offer dozens of recipes for savory preserves using fruits and vegetables, sometimes alone, sometimes in combination. After all, what is pickle relish but a savory preserve made from onions and cucumbers? And what is ketchup, but a sweet-savory sauce made from tomatoes?
One Chicago chef takes the idea of ketchup to another dimension.
“It’s kind of like a barbecue sauce, but without the spice,” said Michael Sheerin, chef de cuisine at Blackbird, of his tomato molasses. “You could definitely add spices to it, if you wanted. Its flavor profile is sweet and acidic, like a peach butter. You can use it to glaze chicken, meat or fish. I like to use it as a sauce or a puree on a plate. It’s very summery, kind of rural, in a way; keep it chunky or puree it smooth.”
His tomato molasses is not as vinegary as ketchup, he said, but it can go where ketchup goes. “I definitely think you could dip French fries in it,” Sheerin said. “You could add it to mustard or mayonnaise to get a sweet-acidic-spicy thing going on, or add it to soups, or use it as a base for your custom barbecue sauce.
“I like to make a big batch and then freeze it, and pull it out whenever I need it,” he said. “And the tomatoes don’t have to be unblemished or perfect, because you’re going to cook it down anyway.”
Sheerin said tomato molasses will show up this summer with beef at Blackbird.
Many different fruits can star in savory preserves.
“These are so simple to use,” said Mohammed Islam of Aigre Doux of his roasted apricot chutney, which takes advantage of fresh apricots’ luscious silkiness and combines finely diced dried apricots for a fillip of texture. “You want to make it when the fruits are at their peak, so you’ll have the wonderful fruit in the winter.”
Combine a little of the roasted apricot chutney with creme fraiche or mayonnaise to spread on a fish or turkey sandwich, he suggested. “It would go very well with pork, but perhaps not so well with beef,” Islam said.
Quince was once the most beloved of all fruits, representing commitment when a young man gave one to his darling, according to “The New Food Lover’s Companion,” by Sharon Tyler Herbst. It looks and tastes like a cross between an apple and a pear, and it’s better cooked than it is raw, when it can be tart and astringent.
Quince is, in fact, related to both apples and pears (and roses), and comes into season in late summer.
That’s why Heather Terhune, executive chef of South Water Kitchen and Atwood Cafe, likes to pair quince with saffron’s medicinal flavor in a complex preserve with currants.
“I use this on a cheese plate,” Terhune said of the preserves. “If you pair it with a triple creme, it really works well. And I’m thinking about putting it on a turkey burger. I like the idea of sweet and savory at the same time, but saffron has that particular flavor. In this, the saffron works very well with the quince and the currants.”
But Terhune’s imagination doesn’t stop with a dollop.
“You could make a dip out of this, or use it as a condiment on something else. It’s pretty universal, as far as what you can use it for.”
She noted that the quinces in this recipe don’t have to be ripe, because cooking softens and sweetens them. And, she said, covering the pot changes the quinces’ color to a beautiful rosy red-purple.
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How to can in a boiling water bath
All of the recipes on this page are high in acid so they can be processed in a hot-water bath rather than a pressure canner. Hot-water bath canning protects foods against molds and yeasts and requires little special equipment. Look for inexpensive canning “kits” at kitchenware stores and Amazon.com. The following instructions are from “The Ball Blue Book: Guide to Home Canning, Freezing and Dehydration.”
If you feel nervous about canning foods, these recipes will all keep in the refrigerator for at least three weeks, and can be frozen for longer storage.
Fill a boiling-water canner half full with water. Heat water to a simmer (180 degrees).
Sterilize jars by heating in the water, running through the dishwasher or placing in a 225-degree oven for 10 minutes.
Position canner rack above hot water in the canner. Fill jars, then wipe rims clean.
Using a jar-lifter, place filled jars onto rack immediately after each jar is filled.
After all filled jars are placed on the rack, carefully lower it into the water. The water level must cover the jars and two-piece caps by 1 to 2 inches. Add boiling water, if needed. Put the canner lid in place.
Adjust heat to medium-high, and heat the water to a hard-rolling boil. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle-rolling boil throughout the processing period.
Set a timer for the number of minutes required for processing the product, about 10 minutes for pints or half-pints and about 30 minutes for quarts.
After the processing period is complete, turn off heat and remove canner lid.
Using a jar lifter, remove the jars from the canner and set them on a towel to cool. Leave 1 to 2 inches of space between jars.
Allow jars to cool naturally 12 to 24 hours before checking for a seal. Do not retighten bands. Remove bands for long-term storage.
— Robin Mather Jenkins
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Apricot chutney
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Yield: About 2 half-pints
– This recipe, from Mohammed Islam of Aigre Doux, is savory but not spicy. He combines fresh and dried apricots for textural contrast. Serve it with a chicken or lamb curry, or any kind of duck dish.
6 fresh apricots, halved, pitted
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 teaspoon each: salt, pepper
2 ounces dried apricots, diced
2 teaspoons cumin seed, toasted,
crushed in a mortar and pestle, see note
2 teaspoons sugar
1. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Place the fresh apricots on a baking sheet; drizzle with olive oil, tossing to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Roast apricots until they begin to brown, about 15 minutes.
2. Place cooked apricots and any juices in a saucepan. Add the dried apricots, cumin and sugar; cover. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes. Cool. Pour into sterilized canning jars. Cover. Process 10 minutes in a boiling water bath, or store in the refrigerator up to 3 months.
Note: To toast cumin seeds, place in a small dry skillet over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
32 calories, 63% of calories from fat, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 3 g carbohydrates, 0 g protein, 49 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
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Tomato molasses
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
Yield: 2 pints
– This recipe, from Blackbird chef-de-cuisine Mike Sheerin, is close to ketchup, but less acidic. The molasses creates texture as well as sweetness. Use it as a base for barbecue sauces or as a baste for grilled meats.
12 ounces plum tomatoes
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) butter
2 tablespoons molasses
1/2 teaspoon salt, sherry or white wine vinegar
1/8 teaspoon hot red pepper sauce
1. Heat a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Core tops of tomatoes and cut an “X” into bottoms; dip tomatoes in boiling water 10-15 seconds. Remove tomatoes from boiling water; place in a bowl of ice water. Peel tomatoes.
2. Place tomatoes, butter, molasses and salt in a medium saucepan; cook, stirring occasionally, over medium-low heat until mixture has reduced to a thick consistency, about 45 minutes.
3. Transfer mixture to a blender; puree. Blend in vinegar and pepper sauce; cool. Transfer to sterilized jars. Cover; seal. Store in the refrigerator up to 1 month.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
9 calories, 70% of calories from fat, 1 g fat, 0.4 g saturated fat, 2 mg cholesterol, 1 g carbohydrates, 0 g protein, 24 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
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Fig and grape preserves
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 40 minutes
Yield: 3 half-pints
– Adapted from a Bon Appetit magazine recipe, this preserve is lively with freshly ground black pepper and crushed coriander seeds. Refrigerate this for up to three weeks, or process in a hot-water bath. Spoon some over grilled chicken or salmon.
3 cups seedless red grapes, halved
1 package (6 ounces) dried figs, diced
1 cup zinfandel or other dry red wine
1/4 cup sugar
2 teaspoons each: grated orange zest, fresh orange juice
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed
1. Combine all ingredients except the orange juice in a medium saucepan. Heat to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low; cover. Simmer 10 minutes. Uncover; increase heat to medium. Cook until liquid is reduced to a syrup, stirring often, about 10 minutes. Stir in orange juice.
2. Transfer to sterilized canning jars. Cover; seal. Process 10 minutes in a boiling water bath, or store in the refrigerator up to 3 months.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
21 calories, 2% of calories from fat, 0.04 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 5 g carbohydrates, 0 g protein, 2 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
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Quince and currant preserves with saffron
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 2 hours, 25 minutes
Yield: 2 pints
– Heather Terhune, executive chef of South Water Kitchen and Atwood Cafe, said that her quince and currant preserves pair well with artisan cheeses. The quinces in this don’t have to be perfectly ripe, so you can make this even with the underripe ones. Covering the pan tightly makes the quince turn red. Refrigerate for up to three weeks, or process in a hot-water bath.
6 medium quince, quartered, cored, sliced 1 4-inch thick
1 1/2 cups water
4 cups sugar
Pinch saffron threads
Seeds from 8 cardamom pods, about 1/4 teaspoon, see note
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 cup dried currants
1. Place quince and water in a stockpot. Heat to a boil over high heat; reduce heat to low. Cook until quince are tender, about 15 minutes. Add sugar, saffron and cardamom seeds. Place a clean dish towel over the pan; replace the lid securely. Reduce heat to low; simmer 1 hour.
2. Add the lemon juice. Cover; simmer, stirring occasionally, until syrup has thickened and quince has turned red, about 1 hour.
3. Stir in the currants; transfer to sterilized canning jars. Cover; seal. Process 10 minutes in a boiling water bath, or store in the refrigerator up to 3 months.
Note: Gently roll a rolling pin over cardamom pods to open them before removing seeds.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
60 calories, 0% of calories from fat, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 15 g carbohydrates, 0 g protein, 0 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
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Curried fruit compote
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
Yield: About 4 quarts
– Can this savory compote now, when peaches and apricots are at their peak, to serve alongside roast pork loin or chicken on a bleak, wintry day. The recipe is adapted from “The Ball Blue Book” (1995 edition).
3 pounds peaches, peeled, pitted, sliced
2 pounds apricots, peeled, pitted, halved
1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons lemon juice
4 cups water
3cups sugar
3 tablespoons curry powder
1 each, peeled, cut into 1-inch chunks:
fresh cored pineapple, cantaloupe
1 small lime, cut into 4 to 6 slices
1. Place peaches and apricots in a large bowl; add 3 tablespoons of the lemon juice. Toss fruit together; set aside. Combine water, sugar, curry powder and the remaining 1 /4 cup of the lemon juice in a stockpot; heat to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to a simmer; add the reserved peaches and apricots. Add the pineapple and cantaloupe. Cook, stirring, just until fruit is hot throughout, about 10 minutes.
2. Transfer fruit into sterilized quart canning jars with a slotted spoon, leaving 1 /2-inch headspace in the jar. Add 1 lime slice to each jar. Ladle hot syrup over fruit, leaving 1 /2-inch headspace. Remove air bubbles by sliding a plastic knife between the food and the jar. Cover; seal.
3. Process 30 minutes in a boiling water bath, or store in the refrigerate up to 3 weeks.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
15 calories, 3% of calories from fat, 0.05 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 4 g carbohydrates, 0 g protein, 0 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
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rjenkins@tribune.com
