A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
AIGRE DOUX ***
230 W. Kinzie St.; 312-329-9400. Though the name means “sweet and sour,” there’s scarcely a distasteful note to be found in this remarkable restaurant, run by husband-wife team Mohammad Islam (chef) and Malika Ameen (pastry chef). Nominally an American restaurant, Aigre Doux’s menu incorporates a multitude of global influences and knowing twists on classic cooking (Mediterranean lamb and couscous becoming American lamb chops over Perigord-butter grits, for instance). The result is delicious food that’s also intellectually satisfying, and, when paired with careful, spot-on service and a thoughtful wine list, adds up to a superb dining experience. Recommended: Mussels in Thai broth, artichoke soup with bay scallops, slow-baked salmon, sticky toffee pudding, creme fraiche panna cotta. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $24-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, no smoking.
BOKA ***
1729 N. Halsted St.; 312-337-6070. Chef Guiseppe Tentori modestly refers to his cooking as “simple,” which might be the case if one were comparing it to that of his former employer (Charlie Trotter) or his next-door neighbor (Alinea). By any other standard, Tentori’s contemporary-American cooking is remarkably nuanced, artistic and clever, whether he’s devising trompe l’oeil caviar from tapioca and squid ink or matching a hash of broccoli and marcona almonds to goat-cheese croquettes. A beautiful interior and knowing, charming service add to the outstanding dining experience. Recommended: Stuffed squid, chamomile-dusted quail, venison with black-cardamom mole, barramundi. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $19-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
LE LAN ***
749 N. Clark St.; 312-280-9100. Chef Bill Kim has invigorated the kitchen of this River North restaurant; hot and sour soup becomes haute cuisine in Kim’s hands, as do any number of prosaic sounding, brilliantly executed dishes. Exemplary service and a food-friendly wine list are pluses. Recommended: Pork-shrimp spring rolls, tea-smoked duck, mahi-mahi with pineapple-cucumber relish, white kimchi, lemon-coconut creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $20-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
PARLOR *
1745 W. North Ave.; 773-782-9000. This 36-seater (but there’s room for another 30 on the outdoor patio) offers laid-back atmosphere and more skillful cooking than the modest-sounding menu and budget-friendly prices would suggest. Service can be spotty, especially at the always-crowded weekend brunch when the kitchen can get overtaxed, but on the whole there’s a lot to like here. Recommended: Chicken and waffles, smoked pork chop, s’more bomb. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking Thu.-Sat.
RICCARDO TRATTORIA ***
2119 N. Clark St.; 773-549-0038. Riccardo Michi was an executive chef with the Bice restaurant group for many years, and Lincoln Park locals are thrilled to be getting Bice-quality food at neighborhood-trattoria prices — one of the big reasons it’s hard to get a reservation at this 50-seater. Michi’s robust, rustic cooking is first-rate and attitude free; he’s as happy to make a sinfully rich spaghetti carbonara as he is to laboriously create tripe Florentine, a signature dish that has developed something of a cult following. Recommended: Tuna carpaccio, orecchietti with boar sausage, lobster risotto, ricotta cheesecake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $12-$24. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
TEPATULCO **
2558 N. Halsted St.; 773-472-7419. Chef/owner Geno Bahena is back with this lively Lincoln Park restaurant. Fans of Bahena’s former Chicago restaurants, Ixcapuzalco and Chilpancingo (both closed), will find similarities with Tepatulco’s menu, but it’s clear that Bahena isn’t merely rehashing the past here. The best option is the five-course, $45 tasting menu (add another $19 for wine pairings), a flavor-filled tour of Bahena’s craft. There’s plenty of indoor seating here, as well as a spacious outdoor courtyard. And on weekend evenings, a deejay starts up the music and the place really gets lively. Recommended: Vuelve a la vida (return to life), lamb chops in mole negro, molcajete surtido. Open: Dinner and lunch daily. Entree prices: $13.95-$21. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
