Between the cicadas, floods and downed power lines, we can understand if you’ve had trouble keeping tabs on the deluge of restaurant openings this summer. But while you’ve been sump pumping your basement, we’ve chomped our way around town so you didn’t miss a bite. It’s a tough job, but, hey, someone’s gotta do it.
Table Fifty-Two
52 W. ELM ST. 312-573-4000
Summer temp: Sizzlin’
Why we like it: Because we’ve always wanted to live like Oprah, and at this restaurant from her personal chef, Art Smith, we can — at least for dinner. This Gold Coast spot also happens to be one of this year’s best new restaurants. The Southern and classic American cuisine is served with class, and luxe touches such as hand-painted ceramic dishes add warmth. Still, it helps to have O’s money — it can get pricey.
Best thing we tried: Shrimp on a bed of creamy, stone-ground grits ($12); ancho-crusted Berkshire pork chops ($25); and crab cakes ($12) were standouts.
The fall forecast: Call ahead; this small space already has a two-week wait for a table.
What you’re saying: “The place is just beautiful; the food and service need work … [t]iming was off, we did not feel ‘taken care of.’ ” — JAKE
Cafe Bionda
1467 N. MILWAUKEE AVE. 773-342-2100
Summer temp: Sweaty
Why we like it: This Wicker Park carbon copy of the South Loop pasta palace (which opened only last year) is too loud, too dark and too crowded — and we saw a customer light up in the middle of the dining room. In other words, it’s a hell of a lot of fun.
Best thing we tried: The meatballs, of course (side $5); Chef Joe Farina’s are tops in Chicago, a fitting ode to his mother’s Italian cooking. But, Joe, Mama would cry if she tasted the overcooked pasta (spaghetti and meatball, $12) we were served.
The fall forecast: Boisterous weekend crowds for the foreseeable future.
What you’re saying: “The food was excellent! Our service was great. Our only complaint was that the wine, for the price, is poured on the slight side.” — IN THE HOOD
Niu Japanese Fusion
332 E. ILLINOIS ST. 312-527-2888
Summer temp: Cooling trendy
Why we like it: This part of Streeterville needed to fill the gap between the ceviche scenesters at DeLaCosta and the pinheads at Lucky Strike. Pan-Asian Niu (pronounced “new”), from former staffers at Lincoln Park’s Shine, picks up that spare.
Best thing we tried: Ono Carpaccio ($13) — fresh escolar with a citrusy zing.
The fall forecast: Mid-tempo maki is right for the neighborhood.
What you’re saying: “Nice decor and comfortable seating help to counter the pad Thai, which was too sweet and lacking bean sprouts … Needs to work out the kinks and improve on its wok offerings.” — ROBIN H.
Otom
951 W. FULTON MARKET. 312-491-5804
Summer temp: Chill factor
Why we like it: We loved the idea of Moto, that mecca of molecular gastronomy, going all Bizzaro World with an adjacent restaurant focusing on comfort food. So what if the menus aren’t edible here? The interior is totally techno, with sleek lines and a lovely lounge.
Best thing we tried: The cocktail menu is dynamite. We loved the Back Nine Sunshine ($12), made with a house-made orangecello and Grey Goose L’Orange. The food, however, left us a bit cold.
The fall forecast: With a new seasonal menu in the works, Otom’s worth another look.
What you’re saying: “Service was unbelievable. Food is a bit overpriced, but really good. The mixed drinks were great.” — NV
The Bluebird Bistro & Wine Bar
1749 N. DAMEN AVE. 773-486-2473
Summer temp: Pleasantly breezy
Why we like it: This low-key Bucktown spot is summer’s sleeper hit. The Euro-rustic menu (think Avec on a budget) mixes well with an interior that will come as a revelation to anyone who has ever wandered through Architectural Artifacts wondering what to do with disused factory lighting.
Best thing we tried: The chicken liver, pistachio and knackwurst pate ($6) was fabulous, and Olives in a Big Friggin’ Bowl ($10) wins our Truth in Menu Writing award. But mains like braised rabbit over pasta ($14) will keep you coming back.
The fall forecast: Service issues could clip this bird’s wings. (An hour wait for appetizers? Yikes.)
What you’re saying: “Love the atmosphere and the fantastic wine/beer menu. Food is solid and really reasonably priced … the service needs some help.” — LAKEVIEW
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