‘Bubble gum” wines are the oenological equivalent of the summer paperback: juicy and cheap. The waning days and nights of August demand a drink that’s as gloriously a no-brainer as that book stashed in your beach bag. Instead of turning to beer or a high-octane fruity cocktail, consider the simple pleasures of a “bubble gum” wine.
Now, “bubble gum” as a wine term has traditionally been pejorative, referencing wines no smarter than Gidget. But just as Sally Field could find redemption in meaty movie roles, so can “bubble gum” be rehabilitated as a word.
“I firmly believe there’s a time and a place for every wine, even the dreaded white zinfandel, and summer is prime for ‘bubble gum’ wine,” said Diana Hamann of Wine Goddess Consulting. “We have plenty of time during the long, hard Chicago winters for making overly complicated meals and spending long hours in wine aisles sourcing cerebral wines; but summertime in Chicago is short. Simple fare on the grill, summer favorites like fish tacos or ceviche, call for simple, gulpable ‘Ravinia’ wines.”
Hamman thinks “bubble gum” reds are particularly apt.
“When it’s 98 degrees in the shade, the last thing you want is a tannic monster high in alcohol weighing you down,” she said. “Juicy wines like Beaujolais that go through carbonic maceration in order to lose any harshness and pump up the juice factor are always a good idea.”
Beaujolais also is an automatic “bubble gum” choice for Alpana Singh, director of wine and spirits for Lettuce Entertain You restaurant group. The wine has “that gumdrop flavor, fruity, juicy and bright,” she said.
An Italian sparkling red, a brachetto d’Acqui, would be perfect with chocolate, she added.
“When I think of ‘bubble gum’ I think of sweet,” Singh said. “With the right food, in the right context and right time, sweet wines are delicious.”
Tom Benezra, wine director of Sal’s Beverage World stores, likes his “bubble gum” wines to be a little sophisticated.
“Vouvrays fit the bill,” he said, noting that the nectarine and star fruit flavors of the chenin blanc grapes used in a straightforward Vouvray will satisfy the sweet tooth.
For some, “bubble gum” is found in the aroma. Don Sritong of Just Grapes points to the smell of Beaujolais, particularly the nouveau variety, as an example.
“This aroma is fine with the right wine,” he added. “If I smelled it in a $50 cabernet, I would say it’s a bad thing.”
Others have mixed feelings about “bubble gum” wines, like Mike Baker, manager of the Wine Discount Center in Chicago.
“On one hand, I’m all for anything that gets people to drink wine,” he said. “It’s good for my business as a whole. On the other hand, wine is about more than just a fruity drink that gets you buzzed. There are people and places involved.
“As long as ‘bubble gum’ wines serve as a springboard to get people into wines that represent a place or someone’s passion, I’m completely for them,” he added. “Fermented grape juice has been around for 8,000 years. It’s worth your time to experience something that speaks to the romance of that.”
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Aussie merlot hops to top
What makes a wine a “bubble gum” wine — and whether that’s a bad thing or good — depends on the taste buds of the drinker. In general, these wines are light, fruity, simple and affordable. Eight likely suspects, three whites, one rose and four reds, were poured in a blind tasting conducted by the Good Eating wine panel. When the scores were tallied, Yellow Tail merlot had jumped way ahead of the pack, earning a three-corkscrew, or “very good,” rating. Interestingly, the wine that seemed to most fit the bill as a “bubble gum” wine came in dead last.
2006 Yellow Tail Merlot
Anyone who wonders why Yellow Tail is such a success story need only taste this smooth Australian red. It was ripe with fruity berries and cherries, seasoned with a little black pepper and oak and smelled sweetly of raspberries or plum. Soft but not sappy, approachable but nuanced. Serve with grilled duck breast, steak.
(3 corkscrews) $6
2005 Voga Quattro
A blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and pinot noir from Sicily. The wine had a marked “green” quality, with notes of green pepper and fresh mint, followed by plums and spices. Tannic. Serve with sausage pizza, grilled porterhouse.
(2 corkscrews) $10
2006 Polka dot Riesling
A German wine in a tall blue bottle fairly screams “sweet,” but this white from the Pfalz region was a pleasant surprise. Though labeled as “medium sweet” and sporting a ripe, peachy flavor, the riesling was balanced by tart notes of lime and stone. Lively acidity. Serve with Sichuan-style chicken, sweet and sour pork, crab Rangoon.
(2 corkscrews) $9
2006 (oops) Sauvignon Blanc
Make no mistake, (oops) is the name of this Chilean white, parentheses included. The wine was tart, crisp. Serve with cocktail wieners, grilled shrimp, oysters.
(2 corkscrews) $12
2006 Clos du Bois Pinot
Grigio
Very tart and crisp, this California white tasted like apples spritzed with lemon and lime. Serve with grilled trout, fish tacos.
(2 corkscrews) $10
2004 Georges Duboeuf
Beaujolais Reserve
Notes of leather and earth but very little fruit in this French red. Some tasters thought it too thin. Serve with cheeseburgers, beef nachos.
(2 corkscrews) $8
2006 Marenco Brachetto d’Acqui Pineto
A sweet, playfully fizzy red from Italy’s Piedmont region. Deeply colored, with a strawberry nose and lots of fruit. Serve with fruit desserts.
(2 corkscrews) $13
2005 Big House Pink
A one-dimensional wine with little bounce; notes of dried cherries and rose petals. Serve with grilled chicken, pasta salad.
(1 corkscrew) $8
— B.D.
Sources: These wines may or may not be in stock at your local store; inquire first. At least one of these wines was found at these stores: Binny’s Beverage Depot stores, Sam’s Wines & Spirits, Kafka Wine Co., Dominick’s, Super Target, Sal’s Beverage World stores, Cabernet & Co. in Naperville, Dobby’s World Wide Wine & Liquors in Palatine. Prices may vary from store to store. Prices are rounded off.
Ratings key:
(4 corkscrews) Excellent
(3 corkscrews) Very good
(2 corkscrews) Good
(1 corkscrew) Fair
(No corkscrews) Poor
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wdaley@tribune.com
Bill Daley answers questions on wine, beer and spirits every Sunday in Q. Hear him on WBBM Newsradio 780 at 8:52 a.m., 11:52 a.m., 3:41 p.m., 6:21 p.m. and 10:22 p.m. Tuesdays and 7:52 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.
