Sushi, or “McSushi,” as Bill Dugan, owner of The Fish Guy Market in Lincoln Park, has labeled it, has become so popular in Chicago that it’s almost as ubiquitous as burgers and fries. But how much do you really know about sushi? RedEye consulted with some local experts to answer our burning sushi questions.
What is sushi?
In the U.S., “sushi” has become a generic term for the whole menu of offerings at sushi places but, technically sushi refers to the Japanese style of nigiri sushi, where a piece of raw fish or shellfish is placed on a bed of hand-formed, short-grain sticky rice. Maki generally refers to the rolls of fish, rice and/or vegetables that come wrapped in seaweed. When the slices of raw fish are served alone, they are called sashimi. California rolls are strictly an American invention. “We don’t have (them) in Japan,” says Yoshi Katsumura, owner of Yoshi’s Cafe in Lakeview.
Where does all that fish come from?
The question should be: Where doesn’t all that fish come from? Dugan, who supplies sushi-grade fish to fine dining establishments in Chicago including Charlie Trotter’s and Alinea, he buys from “literally all over the world,” though he also tries to buy domestic and seasonal fish. But most of the sushi fish in the U.S. comes from a handful of suppliers. In 2005, The Tribune wrote a story linking the supply of most of the country’s — and Chicago’s — sushi to True World Group, a commercial seafood powerhouse established and run by followers of Rev. Sun Myung Moon.
How can you tell if the sushi is fresh?
“Fresh fish smells like the ocean,” says Christopher Martinez of Dirk’s Fish and Gourmet Shop, a retail fish market in Lincoln Park. “If it smells like fish, throw it away.”
Look for a firm texture and strong flavor; the sushi should have no signs of being soggy or watery. Good sushi “should highlight the fish, not mask it,” Martinez says. And, “If you see the word discount anywhere, just run.”
What’s in those sauces?
– Eel sauce: At Katsumura’s restaurant, the thick, slightly sweet soy-like sauce served with eel nigiri and some rolls is made from scratch, combining juices from an eel with soy sauce and bonito flakes (dried fish flakes). Sushi restaurants that don’t make their own use a pre-made mix, Katsumura says.
– Spicy mayo: The sauce that gives spicy tuna rolls their kick is generally a mix of mayo, sesame, oil, soy sauce, chili paste and garlic.
– Ponzu: this light citrus-soy dipping sauce is typically made with sake, sweet sake, soy sauce and lemon juice. Yoshi’s makes its with fresh grapefruit juice, Japanese sushi vinegar, lemon juice and a little yuzu juice (yuzu is a Japanese citrus fruit that tastes like a mix of lemon and lime).
Can you get sick from eating sushi?
Though the risk is low, two potential illnesses associated with eating sushi are listeria, a bacterial infection that causes flu-like symptoms and toxoplasmosis, which comes from a parasite that can be found in fish, says Donald Brown, a pediatrician at Northwestern Memorial Hospital. “The biggest concern is for pregnant women who can potentially pass infections on to the fetus,” Brown says. He has not treated any patients for either condition as a result of eating sushi.
What’s up with the naked sushi people?
In November 2005, RedEye reported on River North’s Kizoku Sushi & Lounge, which brought nyotaimori — the practice of eating sashimi or sushi from the body of a naked or G-string-clad woman — to Chicago. The lounge, which offered a $500 all-you-can-eat “naked sushi” buffet, closed this summer. To RedEye’s knowledge, no other Chicago sushi restaurants have taken up the tradition. Nyotaimori continues to be a hot trend on the West Coast.
Is there a right way to eat sushi?
Fingers or chopsticks? Take your pick. It’s acceptable to eat nigiri sushi and rolls using either, our experts said. According to Katsumura, nigiri sushi in Japan is usually eaten in one bite, and should be dipped into soy sauce with the fish side down. Dipping with the rice side down will cause the sushi to lose its form and make your rice too salty. Sashimi should be eaten with chopsticks.
What is wasabi?
Known as Japanese horseradish, wasabi is generally sold in its original root form (which is grated, much like ginger) or as a powder or ready-to-use paste. Most local restaurants use powder wasabi or a combination of powder and root, according to the sushi experts with whom RedEye spoke. As for the difference in taste, “The powder is spicier than the fresh wasabi,” says Chiyo Tozuka, owner of Chiyo’s, a Japanese restaurant in Albany Park.
Is there a day you shouldn’t eat sushi?
Dennis Ray Wheaton, a Chicago-based freelance writer and chief dining critic for Chicago Magazine, says he generally avoids eating sushi on Sundays and Mondays because that is when most restaurant are at the end of their fish supply. “I eat it in the middle of the week because that’s when the fresh fish come in,” he says. But Tozuka, the restaurant owner quips, “What day isn’t good for sushi?”
– – –
4 places to get raw deals
Sometimes you just need sushi — and a lot of it. When that craving strikes, head to one of these restaurants for an all-you-can-eat extravaganza.
Tsuki
1441 W. Fullerton Ave. 773-883-8722
On Wednesdays, this Lincoln Park restaurant, the most upscale of the bunch, offers a special all-you-can-eat menu for $31.95 per person. Look for traditional maki and some signature rolls, as well as soups, salads, appetizers and a few noodle dishes. Two caveats: Everyone at your table must order the all-you-can-eat menu, and you’re charged regular price for any leftovers.
House of Sushi and Noodles
1610 W. Belmont Ave. 773-935-9110
This wildly popular Lakeview spot lays out a $13.95 all-you-can eat maki buffet daily. Choose from about 40 different kinds of rolls, but don’t let your eyes get bigger than your stomach; you’re charged an extra $5 if you leave anything on your plate. Expect lines.
Ringo Japanese Restaurant
2507 N. Lincoln Ave. 773-248-5788
Every Monday, this Lincoln Park BYOB from the folks behind Tsuki offers a $19.50 all-you-can-eat menu. Options include appetizers, traditional maki, specialty maki and nigiri. As at Tsuki, everyone at your table must order from the special menu, and you’re charged for anything you leave on your plate.
Sushi Para II
2256 N. Clark St. 773-477-3219
The daily $16.99 all-you-can-eat sushi buffet at this Lincoln Park BYOB offers about 20 different kinds of maki alongside 15 nigiri options. If you take more than you eat, you’re charged a fee — the more you have left over, the more you’re charged.
For more sushi spots, search metromix.com. Our new and improved site makes it easy to find exactly what you’re looking for, fast!
– – –
In/out
RedEye’s non-expert take on what’s hot, what’s not in sushi.
IN
Mexican rolls
Brown rice
sushi
Sochu
All-you-can-eat
sushi
OUT
California rolls
Low-carb sushi
Sake
Sushi boats
———-
Laura Castle is a redeye special contributor
