There’s RL and then there’s RL. The first is Red Lobster, a 700-restaurant chain famous for Endless Shrimp (and known as “RL” on foodie message boards) and currently revamping its image to appeal to a more upscale, sophisticated customer. The second is RL, Ralph Lauren’s already sophisticated and upscale restaurant off the Mag Mile, a clubby place where a bottle of wine can top $100.
Apples and oranges, right? But consider this: Both are hard to get into on Saturday nights. Both offer many of the same seafood dishes. Both attract diners celebrating birthdays and anniversaries. And both are splurge nights for many diners. (Prices at Red Lobster, in case you haven’t visited recently, aren’t cheap. A big lobster can easily run you $50, and surf and turf more than $30.)
Which RL, we wondered, offers more bang for your buck? We decided to find out, heading to the Red Lobster in Norridge (4401 N. Cumberland Ave.; 708-456-7966, www.redlobster.com) and RL in Chicago (115 E. Chicago Ave.; 312-475-1100, rlrestaurant.polo.com)
RL VS. RED LOBSTER
Lobster Bisque
RL
Lobster Bisque, $8.50: A bowl of rich, elegant, creamy bisque served table-side and bursting with lobster flavor.
RED LOBSTER.
Lobster Bisque, $7.50: A large bowl of pink soup with a mild taste and unpleasant jellied texture.
WINNER: RL. A lobster-lover’s soup.
Bread basket
RL
Basket of assorted breads and crackers, free: A mix of breads, some of which would have been better served warm.
RED LOBSTER
Cheddar Bay Biscuits, free: Warm, buttery, flaky, ridiculously addictive.
WINNER: Red Lobster. These biscuits are famous for a reason.
Shrimp
RL
Shrimp, $25: Five tender and meaty shrimp, each the size of an NFL lineman’s finger, in brightly flavored lemon-garlic butter sauce.
RED LOBSTER
Garlic-Grilled Jumbo Shrimp, $14.75: A dozen not-very-jumbo shrimp lacking much taste and any evidence of grilling.
WINNER: RL. Elephantine shrimp, luxurious flavor.
Lobster pasta
RL
Lobster and Crab Fettucine, $33: A mountain of mushily overdone tri-color fettuccine in a tomato-cognac broth and topped with enormous hunks of perfectly cooked lobster (including an intact claw of meat) and crab.
RED LOBSTER
Shrimp and Lobster Linguini Alfredo, $14.50 (full portion): Loads of linguini enrobed in a tasty creamy cheese sauce and piled with chunks of lobster but small shrimp.
WINNER: RL’s pasta was overcooked; Red Lobster’s shrimp were small. Red Lobster wins out on price.
Key lime pie
RL
Key Lime Pie, $8: A big wedge of pie, accented by fresh berries and whipped cream, with refreshing tang, a creamy texture and a slightly spicy gingersnap crust.
RED LOBSTER
Key Lime Pie, $4.75: A generous slice of sweet-tart pie with real pop but a frozen-food-aisle pie’s texture and crust.
WINNER: RL. RL’s tender custard and unusual crust give it the edge.
Decor
RL
Dark, intimate, infused with achingly good taste. The feel is of a very old-money, exclusive private club somewhere in the Northeast.
RED LOBSTER
Area Red Lobsters haven’t changed their look to upscale coastal seafood palace yet (and the chain’s representative wouldn’t say when or if that would ever happen around here), so for now the restaurants feel like kitschy sea shanties.
WINNER: RL. Plush but not stuffy.
Service
RL
Flawless and friendly, from reservations honored immediately to perfectly timed courses to a visit to our table by the manager, who handed us his card.
RED LOBSTER
Unpleasant on a first visit, from seating arguments between employees to a waitress who blamed us when she messed up our order. On a brief second visit, service was cheerful and efficient.
WINNER: RL: This service-oriented restaurant treats its customers — famous and non-famous — like VIPs.
Final thoughts
For that truly special evening, RL is clearly the winner. Its service was impeccable, the ambiance was comfortable and clubby, and the food was almost perfect. But you do pay for the quality. A fine meal for two at RL will set you back at least $100, while at Red Lobster you can get out the door for $60. That’s a big difference. Our first meal at Red Lobster wasn’t worth anywhere near that — the food was improperly cooked and the service was abysmal. But the shrimp and lobster linguini was truly a winner, and at $14.50, a great deal. And, of course, there’s no all-you-can-eat shrimp plate at RL. And Red Lobster doesn’t require you to find pricey parking nearby, drive downtown or leave the car with the valet. But, if you can afford the extra dough for RL, it’s worth it. These posh restaurants aren’t just for the very rich. On the other hand, if you’re looking for a less-pricey night out (or just have a craving for those biscuits), then choose wisely at Red Lobster.
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ttsouderos@tribune.com
