A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
BLU 47 *
4655 S. Martin Luther King Drive, 773-536-6000. Despite a total lack of exterior signage on its building, the 47th Street Market Place, this prettily decorated Bronzeville restaurant, across the street from the Harold Washington Cultural Center, draws plenty of customers, thanks to a kitchen that cranks out reliable, modestly priced Southern-American staples, and friendly if leisurely service. No-cover jazz music plays Thursday nights and during Sunday brunch, the latter featuring a bargain $19.95 buffet. Recommended: Southwestern chicken tarts, Bayou catfish, chipotle-bbq short ribs. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $15.95-$23.95. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended Thursdays, Sundays. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking evenings, no smoking.
BLUPRINT **
222 Merchandise Mart Plaza; 312-410-9800. Now there’s a reason to visit the Merchandise Mart even when the showrooms are closed. Bluprint, operated by the Blue Plate Catering group (which also operates Rhapsody and Park Grill), is a stylish, eye-catching first-floor dining room with artistically plated (but down-to-earth) dishes by executive chef Doran Payne and chef de cuisine Sam Burman. Lunchtimes are busiest, as local workers pile in for halibut-based fish-and-chips or “designer lunch” platters of three simultaneously served courses, but the most interesting fare is at dinner, when the restaurant is least crowded. Christine McCabe’s offbeat desserts are another strong draw. Recommended: Pork “second draft,” crab salad, leg of lamb, roasted halibut, mojito popsicle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended at lunch. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
BOKA ***
1729 N. Halsted St.; 312-337-6070. Chef Guiseppe Tentori modestly refers to his cooking as “simple,” which might be the case if one were comparing it to that of his former employer (Charlie Trotter) or his next-door neighbor (Alinea). By any other standard, Tentori’s contemporary-American cooking is remarkably nuanced, artistic and clever, whether he’s devising trompe l’oeil caviar from tapioca and squid ink or matching a hash of broccoli and marcona almonds to goat-cheese croquettes. A beautiful interior and knowing, charming service add to the outstanding dining experience. Recommended: Stuffed squid, chamomile-dusted quail, venison with black-cardamom mole, barramundi. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $19-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
BRAVO TAPAS *
2047 W. Division St.; 773-278-2727. Night-clubby design meets respectable tapas menu in this concept, a multi-level space with main- and upper-level dining and a downstairs lounge. It’s a neat space, worthy of a little dress-up but with a laid-back vibe, and though the tapas can be hit or miss, the hits are in the majority. It’s best to order as you go along; the kitchen is pretty quick and the narrow tables won’t accommodate more than three tapas dishes at once (which won’t prevent the servers from bringing them out). Recommended: Any empanada, scallops with mashed sweet potatoes, ceviche Bravo. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. Tapas prices: $6-$10. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
CHALKBOARD ***
4343 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-477-7144. Gilbert Langlois (ex-Rushmore, SushiSamba Rio) brings his creative-comfort-food act to the Lincoln Square neighborhood with this 62-seat charmer, a beautiful dining room full of uncluttered elegance, enlivened by the occasional appearance of the chef’s son, Owen. Recommended: Grilled quail with “secret” stuffing, fried chicken, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon, Wed.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$28. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
THE GAGE ***
24 S. Michigan Ave.; 312-372-4243. A gastropub is an establishment that combines casual pubby atmosphere and serious food, and this spacious restaurant, across the street from Millennium Park, certainly qualifies. Owner Billy Lawless presides over the chummy bar, Dirk Flanigan produces stellar cooking from a perfect Scotch egg to mildly gamy elk chops, and Hillary Blanchard oversees the imaginative desserts. Recommended: Rabbit salad, Gage burger, lamb duo, sea bream with oxtail, “French toast” dessert. Open: Dinner and lunch daily; brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$38. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
HARO *
2436 S. Oakley St.; 773-847-2400. In the sea of quality Italian restaurants that is the Heart of Italy neighborhood sits this improbable upstart, a classic tapas restaurant that is homey and unpretentious and something of a magnet for young adults in the later hours. It doesn’t take much to fill up this 47-seater, so reservations are a must, unless you arrive early. Recommended: Chicken roulades with Iberico cheese, tortilla espanola, oxtail-stuffed piquillo peppers. Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sat. Tapas prices: $5-$8. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking.
RICCARDO TRATTORIA
*** 2119 N. Clark St.; 773-549-0038. Riccardo Michi was an executive chef with the Bice restaurant group for many years, and Lincoln Park locals are thrilled to be getting Bice-quality food at neighborhood-trattoria prices — one of the big reasons that it’s hard to get a reservation at this narrow 50-seater. Michi’s robust, rustic cooking is first-rate and attitude free; he’s as happy to make a sinfully rich spaghetti carbonara as he is to laboriously create tripe Florentine, a signature dish that has developed something of a cult following. Recommended: Tuna carpaccio, orecchietti with boar sausage, lobster risotto, ricotta cheesecake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $12-$24. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
SEPIA ***
123 N. Jefferson St., 312-441-1920. They sweat the details at this West Loop hotspot, from decor that rings with echoes of the building’s past (the former print shop abounds with vintage touches and the restaurant’s name refers to a 19th Century printing tone) to the precise cooking of chef Kendal Duque. Relatively obscure cuts such as veal breast and lamb sirloin get star treatment in Duque’s kitchen, while sharp service (overseen by owner Emmanuel Nony) keeps the dining room humming. The restaurant draws a dress-to-impress crowd, so snag a corner table and enjoy the eye candy. Recommended: Roasted rabbit, lemon-sage bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18-$28. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible (separate entrance), valet parking; no smoking.
TAVERN AT THE PARK
** 130 E. Randolph St., 312-552-0070. Across the street from Millennium Park’s northern border sits this two-story contemporary American tavern by the same group that operates Keefer’s steak house. Keefer’s executive chef John Hogan also supervises the culinary direction here, which generally consists of familiar, comfort-food dishes with the occasional, gentle twist. Handsome interiors and energetically friendly service are major pluses, and if you steer clear of the steaks (good though they may be), you’ll be surprised at how economical dinner can be. Recommended: Mussels and pepperoni, chicken pot pie, short ribs, double pork chop, Cookies and Cream. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices $15-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
TEPATULCO **
2558 N. Halsted St.; 773-472-7419. Chef/owner Geno Bahena is back with this lively Lincoln Park restaurant. Fans of Bahena’s former Chicago restaurants, Ixcapuzalco and Chilpancingo (both closed) will find one or two similarities with Tepatulco’s menu, but it’s clear that Bahena isn’t merely rehashing the past here. The best option is the five-course, $45 tasting menu (add another $19 for wine pairings), a flavor-filled tour of Bahena’s craft. There’s plenty of indoor seating here, as well as a spacious outdoor courtyard. Recommended: Vuelve a la vida (return to life), lamb chops in mole negro, molcajete surtido. Open: Dinner and lunch daily. Entree prices: $13.95-$21. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
