A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
BLUPRINT **
222 Merchandise Mart Plaza; 312-410-9800. Now there’s a reason to visit the Merchandise Mart even when the showrooms are closed. Bluprint, operated by the Blue Plate Catering group, is a stylish first-floor dining room with artistically plated (but down-to-earth) dishes by executive chef Doran Payne and chef de cuisine Sam Burman. Lunchtimes are busiest, but the most interesting fare is at dinner. Christine McCabe’s offbeat desserts are another draw. Recommended: Pork “second draft,” crab salad, leg of lamb. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended at lunch. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
OTOM **
951 W. Fulton Market, 312-491-5804. Two doors down from its elder sibling, the acclaimed Moto, Otom is intended as Moto’s mirror opposite, offering approachable and affordable food devoid of the molecular-gastronomy razzle-dazzle that made Moto famous. Yet, in a colorful and contemporary setting that should appeal greatly to the cocktail crowd, chef Daryl Nash offers cooking that’s far too thoughtful to be dismissed as “Moto lite.” Friendly and unpretentious servers add to the dining experience. Recommended: Thai-spiced mussels, braised lamb shank, banana split. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $14-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible (must call ahead), valet parking, no smoking.
SEPIA ***
123 N. Jefferson St., 312-441-1920. They sweat the details at this West Loop hotspot, from the decor that rings with echoes of the building’s past (the former print shop abounds with vintage touches and the restaurant’s name refers to a 19th Century printing tone) to the precise cooking of chef Kendal Duque. Relatively obscure cuts such as veal breast and lamb sirloin get star treatment in Duque’s kitchen, while razor-sharp service (overseen by owner Emmanuel Nony) keeps the dining room humming. Recommended: Roasted rabbit, veal with minted noodles, lemon-sage bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18-$28. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible (separate entrance), valet parking; no smoking.
SHIKAGO **
190 S. LaSalle St., 312-781-7300. Kevin and Alan Shikami, the brothers behind the River North restaurant Kevin, have established Loop roots with this restaurant in the heart of the city’s financial district. Chef Kevin Shikami is again mixing French and Asian cuisines, but at Shikago, the Asian side takes center stage, in such dishes as bulgogi-seasoned ribeye steak and duck breast in miso broth. A good portion of the restaurant is devoted to a carryout area, just steps away from the sedate dining room; that, and the TV screens broadcasting a distracting jumble of market reports, fashion montages and film clips, makes for an at-times dissonant dining experience. The restaurant’s name is a contraction of Shikami and Chicago. Recommended: Shikago maki roll, short rib spring rolls, green-tea shortbread. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $24-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
TAVERN AT THE PARK
** 130 E. Randolph St., 312-552-0070. Across the street from Millennium Park’s northern border sits this contemporary American tavern by the same group that operates Keefer’s steak house. Keefer’s executive chef John Hogan also supervises the culinary direction here, which generally consists of familiar, comfort-food dishes with the occasional, gentle twist. Handsome interiors and energetically friendly service are major pluses. Recommended: Mussels and pepperoni, chicken pot pie, short ribs, double pork chop, Cookies and Cream. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices $15-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
