A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
BOKA ***
1729 N. Halsted St.; 312-337-6070. Chef Giuseppe Tentori modestly refers to his cooking as “simple,” which might be the case if one were comparing it to that of his former employer (Charlie Trotter) or his next-door neighbor (Alinea). By any other standard, Tentori’s contemporary-American cooking is remarkably nuanced, artistic and clever, whether he’s devising trompe l’oeil caviar from tapioca and squid ink or matching a hash of broccoli and marcona almonds to goat-cheese croquettes. A beautiful interior and knowing, charming service add to the outstanding dining experience. Recommended: Stuffed squid, chamomile-dusted quail, venison with black-cardamom mole, barramundi. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $19-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
BRASSERIE RUHLMANN ***
500 W. Superior St., 312-494-1900. This copy of a New York restaurant takes its name from Art Deco master Emil-Jacques Ruhlmann, and accordingly there are Art Deco accents throughout the bustling, 240-seat dining room — notably a series of gorgeous gilded panels above the bar. Chef Christian Delouvrier, who worked at L’Espinasse and Alain Ducasse, turns out classic brasserie food that is simultaneously hearty and nuanced — comfort food for the thinking person. Recommended: Le Chicago chowder, moules frites, lamb navarin, duck a l’orange, raspberry napoleon. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $22-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
OLD TOWN BRASSERIE ***
1209 N. Wells St., 312-943-3000. Purists may sniff that this cozy restaurant isn’t a “true” brasserie (it’s not), but longtime restaurateur Bob Djahanguiri (Yvette, Toulouse) and acclaimed chef Roland Liccioni (Le Francais, Les Nomades) have partnered to create an outstanding dining experience. Dishes that starred on Liccioni’s Le Francais menus are here — at greatly reduced prices — along with simpler fare (escargots, salade Lyonnaise) that are just as satisfying. Recommended: Duck consomme, artichoke terrine, poached salmon, lamb-sweetbreads duo, hazelnut souffle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $18-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
OTOM **
951 W. Fulton Market; 312-491-5804. Just two doors down from its elder sibling, the acclaimed Moto, Otom is intended as Moto’s mirror opposite, offering approachable and affordable food devoid of the molecular-gastronomy razzle-dazzle that made Moto famous. Yet, in a colorful and contemporary setting that should appeal greatly to the cocktail crowd, chef Daryl Nash offers cooking that’s far too thoughtful to be dismissed as “Moto lite.” Recommended: Thai-spiced mussels, banana split. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $14-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible (must call ahead), valet parking.
SEPIA ***
123 N. Jefferson St.; 312-441-1920. They really sweat the details at this West Loop hotspot, from decor that rings with echoes of the building’s past (the former print shop abounds with vintage touches and the restaurant’s name refers to a 19th Century printing tone) to the cooking of chef Kendal Duque. Relatively obscure cuts such as veal breast and lamb sirloin get star treatment in Duque’s kitchen, while razor-sharp service (overseen by owner Emmanuel Nony) keeps the dining room humming. Recommended: Roasted rabbit, lemon-sage bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18-$28. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible (separate entrance), valet parking.
TABLE FIFTY-TWO **
52 W. Elm St.; 312-573-4000. Art Smith, renowned cookbook author and one-time personal chef to Oprah Winfrey, crams his notions of hospitality and Southern heritage into a 36-seat carriage house on the Gold Coast. Between the meager seating and Smith’s celebrity, it’s very difficult to reach this place by phone and even harder to secure a weekend reservation (best strategies include calling late afternoon or early evening, being persistent and settling for mid-week reservations or, better, lunch). Those who succeed are rewarded with soul-nurturing, down-home cooking and personal touches — such as Smith’s complimentary buttermilk-goat-cheese biscuits — that make you feel like a treasured house guest. Recommended: Fried-green tomato Napoleon, 12-layer chocolate cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $18.50-$39. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
