Besides the restorative effects of those hash browns on New Year’s Day, the potato likely has not occupied much thought so far in ’08. The UN, however, has enthusiastically declared 2008 the International Year of the Potato, in part because of the terrific tuber’s potential for alleviating hunger in the developing world. It’s a noble charge for the lowly spud, but it got us thinking: What else is the potato capable of? In rediscovering these eight dishes, we discovered we love potatoes just as much as the UN!
Frites
Frites are hotly contested territory, subject to infinite innovation. But while the aioli mounts and the truffle oil flies, Bucktown bistro Le Bouchon (1958 N. Damen Ave. 773-862-6600) quietly serves perfectly crisp, beautifully seasoned French fries. It’s true that the potatoes can’t take all the credit — they do share a plate with a flash-grilled steak dripping in herbed butter ($18.50). But these frites have a distinctly earthy flavor, something that all the newfangled special sauce in the world couldn’t improve.
Whipped brandade
A simple adjective influences diners one way or another, and in the case of the brandade ($9) at Avec (615 W. Randolph St. 312-377-2002), it means homey coastal food suddenly sounds sexy and new when “whipped.” Silly foodies — if only they knew what old French fisherman have known for centuries: Pureeing salt cod with potatoes and roasted garlic makes for a deeply satisfying dish. Avec’s version comes sizzling in a crock with garlic toasts on which to slather it.
Latkes
Unless you have a real bubby in storage somewhere, it’s tough to find a potato latke that consistently delivers. Yet Eppy’s Cafe and Deli (162 N. Franklin St. 312-345-7771) seems to breeze through the basic requirements: crispy outside, creamy inside and seasoned throughout. These puck-sized gems don’t need a thing, but a dollop of homemade applesauce doesn’t hurt. Just be sure to bring an appetite, as they only come with Eppy’s sandwiches: towering, deli-style beasts that make for one heck of a side dish.
Hash browns
Clara and James Restaurante (3159 W. Belmont Ave. 773-539-3020) long has been touted as having some of the best hash browns ($1.50) in town. Oh, sure, you say — everyone claims their hash browns are great. But what arrives typically is mealy, under-seasoned mush. The difference at this Logan Square diner is a golden, all-over browning, which results in deep flavor and a level of seasoning that’s just about perfect.
Potatoes Ruhlmann
A la carte items typically are afterthoughts — pleasant-enough morsels that provide variety between bites of something macho and grilled. Not so with the Potatoes Ruhlmann ($7) at Brasserie Ruhlmann SteakHouse (500 W. Superior St. 312-494-1900). These duck-fat drenched discs are tossed with a staggering amount of garlic, so you’re forfeiting your right to kiss anyone for a few days. But we think that’s a small price to pay.
Cottage fries
An inevitability of running a steakhouse is rendered beef fat. If you’re enterprising, you cook something in it. Enter the complimentary cottage fries ($4.40) that arrive alongside the blistered hunks of meat at River North mainstay Gene & Georgetti (500 N. Franklin St. 312-527-3718). Think of delicious fries, tasting at once old-fashioned and thoroughly modern, as the result of a highly efficient cycle from trimmings to cooking medium.
Stuffed potato pancake
Notice that this dish ($8.50) from Polish diner Andrzej Grill (1022 N. Western Ave. 773-489-3566) isn’t called pork stew with potato pancake? That’s because the stew, while perfectly seasoned and rich with paprika and warm spices, is a mere condiment to the massive potato pancake that folds down the center of your plate. You’d think anything crisply fried would get soggy under all that gravy, but somehow this monster retains a toothsome appeal, dressed with sour cream and a scattering of dill.
Huevos Flamencos
No, the name doesn’t mention potatoes. And yes, the sizzling ramekin that arrives at your table at Haro (2436 S. Oakley St. 773-847-2400) is loaded with other stuff. But don’t be fooled — this tapa ($5) is all about the spuds. The fried cubes are buried among sauteed mushrooms, crisped chorizo and soft peppers and onions — all spiked with sherry and topped with an egg. The resulting dish is smoky, spicy and sweet, but at the heart are those tasty little potatoes.
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METROMIX@TRIBUNE.COM
