The scene: If you’ve ever stumbled out of EvilOlive or any of its late-night predecessors (FOUR, Big Wig) and made your way toward the Division Blue Line “L” stop, you’ve probably passed this unassuming Polish eatery. High on authenticity and low on frills, Podhalanka (the name refers to a woman from The Podhale, or Polish highlands, a mountainous region in southern Poland) has been serving traditional fare from a brick storefront on the border of Wicker Park and East Ukrainian Village for more than 21 years. Regulars filter in throughout the day on weekends, but you’ll never have to wait for a seat. Settle in at one of the large tables covered in white linen or pull up a stool at the long counter facing a wall of bric-a-brac, a photo of Pope John Paul II and a TV that’s often tuned to Polish-language soap operas, and you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time.
The cuisine: Like the decor, the menu here appears not to have changed much in two decades — and that goes for the prices too. Oatmeal is just $2.50, and a belly-warming bowl of hot cereal with milk is cheaper still at $1.50. A single kielbasa (sausage) is just $2.75 — and bread and butter, a staple of any Polish meal, is complimentary with every order. If you want to hit $5, you’re going to have to order coffee ($1.50) and tip well.
Though the traditional Polish breakfast is simple and requires little cooking — think sliced bread spread with butter and farmer’s cheese and topped with a slice of meat or tomato — brunchers with American tastes might be tempted by dishes typically served later in the day, such as placki ziemniaczane (potato pancakes). Podhalanka’s placki, served four to an order ($3.75), are expertly fried to a crisp golden brown and topped with a dollop of sour cream. Be sure to ask what kind of soup is on the stove (selections change daily). For just $2.80, a steaming bowl of cabbage soup, served with a basket of sliced bread, might just be one of the best bargains in town.
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THE JUICE
Podhalanka
1549 W. Division St.
773-486-6655
RATING
2.5 (out of 4) eggs
Loved it: Did we mention you can get breakfast for less than $5?
Hated it: Refills came quickly, but the tepid coffee left us lukewarm.
BRUNCH TIME:
Opens at 9 a.m. Saturday, 10 a.m. Sunday
COST: $3-$6 per person
WAIT: None
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METROMIX@TRIBUNE.COM
