A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
Brasserie Ruhlmann *** 500 W. Superior St., 312-494-1900. This copy of a New York restaurant takes its name from Art Deco master Emil-Jacques Ruhlmann, and accordingly there are Art Deco accents throughout the bustling, 240-seat dining room — notably a series of gorgeous gilded panels above the bar. Chef Christian Delouvrier turns out classic brasserie food that is simultaneously hearty and nuanced — comfort food for the thinking person. Recommended: Le Chicago chowder, moules frites, lamb navarin, duck a l’orange, raspberry napoleon. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $22-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Crofton On Wells *** 535 N. Wells St., 312-755-1790. Ten years after its December 1997 opening, Suzy Crofton’s restaurant in River North has quietly become one of Chicago’s finest dining experiences, combining a handsome and quiet dining room with similarly understated but excellent cuisine from the chef and owner. Crofton’s seasonal American cooking is laden with comfort-food ingredients and a smattering of wild game, with the occasional spicy accent. Laid-back enough for a casual get-together and sophisticated enough for dress-up, Crofton’s satisfies on every possible level. Recommended: Quail with dried-cherry spoonbread, curried lentils with ginger creme fraiche, venison with tarragon sabayon, chocolate-banana plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $26-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Macello ** 1235 W. Lake St., 312-850-9871. Giovanni DeNigris, who also owns Trattoria Trullo in Lincoln Square, once again specializes in the food of his native Puglia at this Market District spot. Two wood-burning ovens handle the brunt of the compact menu; roasted meats and fish are the best main courses, and though roasted antipasti (which change daily) are also satisfying, it’s tough to turn down the well-crafted, crispy-crust pizzas. Recommended: Mixed seafood grill, pizza barese, branzino, croccantino. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$44. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Old Town Brasserie *** 1209 N. Wells St., 312-943-3000. Purists may sniff that this cozy restaurant isn’t a “true” brasserie (it’s not), but longtime restaurateur Bob Djahanguiri (Yvette, Toulouse) and acclaimed chef Roland Liccioni (Le Francais, Les Nomades) have partnered to create an outstanding dining experience. Dishes that starred on Liccioni’s Le Francais menus are here — at greatly reduced prices — along with simpler fare (escargots, salade Lyonnaise) that are just as satisfying. It wouldn’t be a Djahanguiri restaurant without live music, which is featured near the bar on Fridays and Saturdays (after 10 p.m.). Recommended: Duck consomme, artichoke terrine, poached salmon, lamb-sweetbreads duo, hazelnut souffle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $18-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Table Fifty-Two ** 52 W. Elm St.; 312-573-4000. Art Smith, renowned cookbook author and one-time personal chef to Oprah Winfrey, crams his notions of hospitality and Southern heritage into a 36-seat carriage house on the Gold Coast. Between the meager seating and Smith’s celebrity, it’s very difficult to reach this place by phone and even harder to secure a weekend reservation (best strategies include calling late afternoon or early evening, being persistent and settling for mid-week reservations or, better, lunch). Those who succeed are rewarded with soul-nurturing, down-home cooking and personal touches — such as Smith’s complimentary buttermilk-goat-cheese biscuits — that make you feel like a treasured house guest. Recommended: Fried-green tomato Napoleon, pistachio-coated chicken breast, ancho pork chop, 12-layer chocolate cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $18.50-$39. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking.
———-
Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
