The scene: If you want to check out current “it spot” Brasserie Ruhlmann for dinner, make reservations. This Art Deco-era inspired eatery is drawing big crowds — as it should, with decadent dishes such as chef Christian Delouvrier’s cheese souffle (it takes 20 minutes, and it’s worth every second) on the menu. Even sans souffle, the room offers uncompromising decadence. Marvel at the red-velvet trimmed interior, the alabaster light fixtures that hang from the soaring ceiling like weightless, inverted plinths, and the hand-laid tile floor that harkens to some less mass-market era. Now, imagine having it all to yourself — because you’ll feel like you do during brunch. OK, maybe we were a bit early (or maybe a bit late, depending on your perspective). Ruhlmann begins brunch service at noon, so whether we beat the crowds or whether brunch/lunch service just hasn’t caught on yet, we’re not sure. But with French pop chirping overhead, the choice of any plush seat we wanted, and a waiter at our sole disposal, we found the experience utterly charming, romantic and satisfying.
The cuisine: Brunch offerings are dizzying. Despite the late start, there’s a long list of breakfast items: The fluffy Omelette Delouvrier ($10) is stuffed with creamy spinach, cubed ham, and, we think, a touch of gruyere (it’s not listed on the menu, but our waiter confirmed our taste buds). For a twist on the traditional Benedict, go for the house version, topped with a tomato-based Choron sauce underpinned with fresh tarragon. The raw bar is also up and running for brunch, featuring oysters ($15 for six) Alaskan king crab cocktail (market price) and something called a Colossal Shrimp Cocktail ($16). Whatever you choose, make the crepe Suzette ($9) your brunch dessert — it’s pure heaven.
Better than a bloody mary: A bloody mary with another one of those colossal shrimp ($15.50).
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THE JUICE
Brasserie Ruhlmann
500 W. Superior St.
312-494-1900
Rating: four out of four
Loved it: Think about how long New Yorkers would have to wait in line for a brunch like this.
Hated it: The creeping fear that weekend brunch may not last long if crowds don’t start to pick up.
BRUNCH TIME: Noon-3 p.m.
COST: $30 per person
WAIT: None
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metromix@tribune.com
