A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
Blu 47 * 4655 S. Martin Luther King Drive; 773-536-6000. Despite a total lack of exterior signage on its building, the 47th Street Market Place, this prettily decorated Bronzeville restaurant, across the street from the Harold Washington Cultural Center, draws plenty of customers, thanks to a kitchen that cranks out reliable, modestly priced Southern-American staples, and friendly if leisurely service. No-cover jazz music plays Thursday nights and during Sunday brunch, the latter featuring a bargain $19.95 buffet. Recommended: Southwestern chicken tarts, spinach-goat cheese salad, Bayou catfish, chipotle-bbq short ribs. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $15.95-$23.95. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended Thursdays, Sundays. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking evenings.
Brasserie Ruhlmann *** 500 W. Superior St., 312-494-1900. This copy of a New York restaurant takes its name from Art Deco master Emil-Jacques Ruhlmann, and accordingly there are Art Deco accents throughout the bustling, 240-seat dining room — notably a series of gorgeous gilded panels above the bar. Chef Christian Delouvrier, who worked at L’Espinasse and Alain Ducasse, turns out classic brasserie food that is simultaneously hearty and nuanced — comfort food for the thinking person. Recommended: Le Chicago chowder, moules frites, lamb navarin, duck a l’orange, raspberry napoleon. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $22-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Crofton On Wells *** 535 N. Wells St., 312-755-1790. Ten years after its December 1997 opening, Suzy Crofton’s restaurant in River North has quietly become one of Chicago’s finest dining experiences, combining a handsome and quiet dining room with similarly understated but excellent cuisine from the chef and owner. Crofton’s seasonal American cooking is laden with comfort-food ingredients and a smattering of wild game, with the occasional spicy accent. Laid-back enough for a casual get-together and sophisticated enough for dress-up, Crofton’s satisfies on every possible level. Recommended: Quail with dried-cherry spoonbread, curried lentils with ginger creme fraiche, venison with tarragon sabayon, chocolate-banana plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $26-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Macello ** 1235 W. Lake St., 312-850-9871. Giovanni DeNigris, who also owns Trattoria Trullo in Lincoln Square, once again specializes in the food of his native Puglia at this Market District spot. Housed in a former meat-packing space (Macello means “slaughterhouse”), DeNigris makes good use of vintage industrial materials to create a look that’s rustic yet distinctly urban. Two wood-burning ovens handle the brunt of the compact menu; roasted meats and fish are the best main courses, and though roasted antipasti (which change daily) are also satisfying, it’s tough to turn down the well-crafted, crispy-crust pizzas. Recommended: Mixed seafood grill, pizza barese, branzino, croccantino. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$44. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Old Town Brasserie *** 1209 N. Wells St., 312-943-3000. Purists may sniff that this cozy restaurant isn’t a “true” brasserie (it’s not), but longtime restaurateur Bob Djahanguiri (Yvette, Toulouse) and acclaimed chef Roland Liccioni (Le Francais, Les Nomades) have partnered to create an outstanding dining experience. Dishes that starred on Liccioni’s Le Francais menus are here — at greatly reduced prices — along with simpler fare (escargots, salade Lyonnaise) that are just as satisfying. It wouldn’t be a Djahanguiri restaurant without live music, which is featured near the bar on Fridays and Saturdays (after 10 p.m.). Recommended: Duck consomme, artichoke terrine, poached salmon, lamb-sweetbreads duo, hazelnut souffle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $18-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Riccardo Trattoria *** 2119 N. Clark St.; 773-549-0038. Riccardo Michi was an executive chef with the Bice restaurant group for many years, and Lincoln Park locals are thrilled to be getting Bice-quality food at neighborhood-trattoria prices — one of the big reasons that it’s hard to get a reservation at this narrow 50-seater. Michi’s robust, rustic cooking is first-rate and attitude free. Recommended: Tuna carpaccio, orecchietti with boar sausage, lobster risotto, ricotta cheesecake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $12-$24. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Sepia *** 123 N. Jefferson St.; 312-441-1920. They really sweat the details at this West Loop hotspot, from the decor that rings with echoes of the building’s past (the former print shop abounds with vintage touches and the restaurant’s name refers to a 19th Century printing tone) to the precise cooking of chef Kendal Duque. Relatively obscure cuts such as veal breast and lamb sirloin get star treatment in Duque’s kitchen. Recommended: Roasted rabbit, flatbread pizzas, veal with minted noodles, lemon-sage bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18-$28. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible (separate entrance), valet parking.
Tavern At The Park ** 130 E. Randolph St.; 312-552-0070. Across the street from Millennium Park’s northern border sits this two-story contemporary American tavern by the same group that operates Keefer’s steak house. Keefer’s executive chef John Hogan also supervises the culinary direction here, which generally consists of familiar, comfort-food dishes with the occasional, gentle twist. Recommended: Mussels and pepperoni, chicken pot pie, short ribs, double pork chop, Cookies and Cream. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices $15-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Tepatulco ** 2558 N. Halsted St.; 773-472-7419. Chef/owner Geno Bahena is back with this lively Lincoln Park restaurant. Fans of Bahena’s former Chicago restaurants, Ixcapuzalco and Chilpancingo (both closed) will find one or two similarities with Tepatulco’s menu, but it’s clear that Bahena isn’t merely rehashing the past here. The best option is the five-course, $45 tasting menu (add another $19 for wine pairings), a flavor-filled tour of Bahena’s craft. Recommended: Vuelve a la vida (return to life), lamb chops in mole negro, molcajete surtido. Open: Dinner and lunch daily. Entree prices: $13.95-$21. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
