First bite: Crisp
On a subzero night in Lakeview, less than 48 hours after opening his new Korean fried chicken business, Doug Funke, 37, wore an orange ski-lodge sweater better suited to Merv Griffin, circa 1974. He matched his storefront (also orange) and his orange menus. The night we visited Crisp (2940 N. Broadway St.; 877-693-8653) a steady flux of customers filed in and out.
Crisp is not the first Korean fried chicken stand in Chicago but it is the first to embrace the quietly building mania for non-greasy, crackling, Korean-style (twice-fried) fried chicken. Everything about Crisp cries out to be franchised — the orange motif, the spartan dining room (soft green walls, dark wooden community tables), the cute names for Korean dishes. (No shock: Funke says he and his business partner Jae Lee were approached with an offer for the restaurant name.)
So a Buddha Bowl here ($5.95-$9.95) is bi bim bop (seasoned vegetables and rice, without the traditional egg on top, and meat only as an extra); and Original Buds are dumplings stuffed with sausage or steak and blue cheese or veggies (ours were dry, promised jalapenos undetectable).
Everything about Crisp is mild and inoffensive. But the chicken rocks, and I hate chicken. We dug into a half order of Seoul Sassy ($8.95) — under the “Funke Chicken” menu heading. Sweet, moist pieces of chicken (hacked apart, no clean separation) with a sheen of soy and a ginger twing (barbecue and Buffalo sauces are available). The skin isn’t limp under a mound of batter, old-school KFC style, but, indeed, crisp. There’s no heat involved at all.
— Christopher Borrelli
First bite: Prosecco
With its Venetian-inspired decor and muted off-white tones, Prosecco (710 N. Wells St.; 312-951-9500) paints a dreamy ambience, the kind of atmosphere you’d want for a first or second date, maybe even an anniversary. A little bit of the restaurant’s namesake helps, too.
Indeed, the sparkling Italian wine is in abundance, from decorative bottles at the front door to the demitazza offered moments after sitting down, Prosecco sets a tone: It’s about eating and having fun.
Credit owners Kathryn Sullivan Alvera and Mark and Stefania Sparacino for creating such a cool-yet-friendly vibe.
As for the food, we enjoyed almost everything ordered. A platter of beef carpaccio topped with Parmigiano-Reggiano, arugula and a balsamic reduction ($14) offered a salty bite with a slight tang at the end, an avocado salad ($14) that blended notes of sweet and citrus well and a seared ahi tuna steak ($24) with a spicy kick; it was heaven. The only sore spot came from the dessert: a warm double-chocolate torta di lava ($8) that was surprisingly mild. But the second demitazza, this time a fruity, red dessert wine, helped wash it down.
— Glenn Jeffers
Green Grocer Chicago opens
We popped in Sunday to see the new Green Grocer Chicago (1402 W. Grand Ave.; 312-624-9508) and were delighted with the little shop that features organic foods, and locally produced products whenever possible. There are items for pets and a few toiletries. All in all, the space is warm and welcoming. Cassie Green, one of the owners, told us that the store opened last week and had been so busy that nearly all fresh produce had sold out.
— Robin Mather Jenkins
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