A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
Bluprint ** 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza; 312-410-9800. Now there’s a reason to visit the Merchandise Mart even when the showrooms are closed. Bluprint, operated by the Blue Plate Catering group (which also operates Rhapsody and Park Grill), is a stylish, eye-catching first-floor dining room with artistically plated (but down-to-earth) dishes by executive chef Doran Payne and chef de cuisine Sam Burman. Lunchtimes are busiest, as local workers pile in for halibut-based fish-and-chips or “designer lunch” platters of three simultaneously served courses, but the most interesting fare is at dinner, when the restaurant is least crowded. Recommended: Pork “second draft,” crab salad, leg of lamb, roasted halibut, mojito popsicle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended at lunch. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Brasserie Ruhlmann *** 500 W. Superior St., 312-494-1900. This copy of a New York restaurant takes its name from Art Deco master Emil-Jacques Ruhlmann, and accordingly there are Art Deco accents throughout the bustling, 240-seat dining room. Chef Christian Delouvrier, who worked at L’Espinasse and Alain Ducasse, turns out classic brasserie food that is simultaneously hearty and nuanced — comfort food for the thinking person. Recommended: Le Chicago chowder, moules frites, lamb navarin, raspberry napoleon. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $22-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Crofton on Wells *** 535 N. Wells St., 312-755-1790. Ten years after its December 1997 opening, Suzy Crofton’s restaurant in River North has quietly become one of Chicago’s finest dining experiences, combining a handsome and quiet dining room with similarly understated but excellent cuisine from the chef and owner. Crofton’s seasonal American cooking is laden with comfort-food ingredients and a smattering of wild game, with the occasional spicy accent. Recommended: Quail with dried-cherry spoonbread, curried lentils with ginger creme fraiche, venison with tarragon sabayon, chocolate-banana plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $26-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Fahrenheit ** 1890 W. Main St., St. Charles, 630-444-1350. Culinary sleight-of-hand, deconstructed sauces and clouds of foam are commonplace at this Far West suburban restaurant, featuring chef Peter Balodimas in partnership with his father, Chris. Despite the dramatic flourishes, Balodimas’ food succeeds primarily on its approachable nature; he generally applies his whimsy to such comfort-food staples as pork belly and veal chop. Do save room for dessert, when Balodimas is at his artistic best. Recommended: Buttermilk-fried quail, “clam chowder,” venison chop, lamb shoulder, “PB & J” dessert. Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $17-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot.
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar ** 960 Milwaukee Ave., Lincolnshire, 847-793-0333. This is the sole (so far) Chicago-area outpost of this national steakhouse chain, though a River North location is scheduled to open in spring 2008. Prime steaks are aged 21 days, cut on the premises (so it’s easy to order an extra-thick cut) and consistently excellent. Desserts are decent, but invest your calories elsewhere. Clubby good looks and plenty of sound baffling contribute to an extremely pleasant atmosphere. Recommended: Fleming salad, NY strip steak, prime rib, chocolate lava cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $24.50-$42.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Macello ** 1235 W. Lake St., 312-850-9871. Giovanni DeNigris, who also owns Trattoria Trullo in Lincoln Square, once again specializes in the food of his native Puglia at this Market District spot. Housed in a former meat-packing space (Macello means “slaughterhouse”), DeNigris makes good use of vintage industrial materials to create a look that’s rustic yet distinctly urban. Two wood-burning ovens handle the brunt of the compact menu; roasted meats and fish are the best main courses, and though roasted antipasti (which change daily) are also satisfying, it’s tough to turn down the well-crafted, crispy-crust pizzas. Recommended: Mixed seafood grill, pizza barese, branzino, croccantino. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$44. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Old Town Brasserie *** 1209 N. Wells St., 312-943-3000. Purists may sniff that this cozy restaurant isn’t a “true” brasserie (it’s not), but longtime restaurateur Bob Djahanguiri (Yvette, Toulouse) and acclaimed chef Roland Liccioni (Le Francais, Les Nomades) have partnered to create an outstanding dining experience. Dishes that starred on Liccioni’s Le Francais menus are here — at greatly reduced prices — along with simpler fare (escargots, salade Lyonnaise) that are just as satisfying. It wouldn’t be a Djahanguiri restaurant without live music, which is featured near the bar on Fridays and Saturdays (after 10 p.m.). Recommended: Duck consomme, artichoke terrine, poached salmon, lamb-sweetbreads duo, hazelnut souffle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $18-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Powerhouse ** 215 N. Clinton St.; 312-928-0800. From its handsome, noise-baffling decor to the careful cooking and artistic plating of executive chef John Peters, this West-Loop American restaurant consistently exceeds expectations. The dining room is comfortable despite its long and narrow configuration, spot-on service is eager to please and the addition of Sarah Steele as pastry chef is a real coup. Recommended: Scallops with serrano ham, romaine-heart salad, venison, banana Bavarian plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $25-$43. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Sam & Harry’s ** 1551 Thoreau Drive, Schaumburg, 847-303-4050. The decor of this northwest suburban restaurant is a far cry from the leather-and-burgundy clubbiness most steakhouses adopt; here there are glass walls and contemporary artwork, spacious tables and a few pillow-strewn couch seats (the most popular option). The menu avoids cliches as well, at least as well as any restaurant focused on prime aged beef can. A strong wine program and on-its-toes service are major assets. Recommended: Fried oysters, lobster bisque, Cajun ribeye. Open: Breakfast, lunch, dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $21-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Sepia *** 123 N. Jefferson St.; 312-441-1920. They really sweat the details at this West Loop hotspot, from the decor that rings with echoes of the building’s past (the former print shop abounds with vintage touches and the restaurant’s name refers to a 19th Century printing tone) to the precise cooking of chef Kendal Duque. Relatively obscure cuts such as veal breast and lamb sirloin get star treatment in Duque’s kitchen, while razor-sharp service (overseen by owner Emmanuel Nony) keeps the dining room humming. The restaurant draws a dress-to-impress crowd, so snag a corner table and enjoy the eye candy. Recommended: Roasted rabbit, flatbread pizzas, veal with minted noodles, lemon-sage bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18-$28. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible (separate entrance), valet parking.
Table Fifty-Two ** 52 W. Elm St.; 312-573-4000. Art Smith, renowned cookbook author and one-time personal chef to Oprah Winfrey, crams his notions of hospitality and Southern heritage into a 36-seat carriage house on the Gold Coast. Between the meager seating and Smith’s celebrity, it’s very difficult to reach this place by phone and even harder to secure a weekend reservation (best strategies include calling late afternoon or early evening, being persistent and settling for mid-week reservations or, better, lunch). Those who succeed are rewarded with soul-nurturing, down-home cooking and personal touches — such as Smith’s complimentary buttermilk-goat-cheese biscuits — that make you feel like a treasured house guest. Recommended: Fried-green tomato Napoleon, pistachio-coated chicken breast, ancho pork chop, 12-layer chocolate cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $18.50-$39. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
