A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
Bistro Monet ** 462 Park Blvd., Glen Ellyn; 630-469-4002. For those who love French tradition at reasonable prices, in a room so quiet that one can rediscover the lost art of dinner conversation, Bistro Monet is your new favorite restaurant. Chef/owner Michel Saragueta has turned the former Les Deux Autres (and Les Deux Gros prior to that) into an affordable oasis of country-French charm, with laid-back and friendly service. Recommended: Chicken-liver mousse, turban of sole, skate wing, dessert souffle. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $22-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
Bluprint ** 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza; 312-410-9800. Now there’s a reason to visit the Merchandise Mart even when the showrooms are closed. Bluprint, operated by the Blue Plate Catering group (which also operates Rhapsody and Park Grill), is a stylish, eye-catching first-floor dining room with artistically plated (but down-to-earth) dishes by executive chef Doran Payne and chef de cuisine Sam Burman. Lunchtimes are busiest, as local workers pile in for halibut-based fish-and-chips or “designer lunch” platters of three simultaneously served courses, but the most interesting fare is at dinner, when the restaurant is least crowded. Christine McCabe’s offbeat desserts are another strong draw. Recommended: Pork “second draft,” crab salad, leg of lamb, roasted halibut, mojito popsicle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended at lunch. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Brasserie Ruhlmann *** 500 W. Superior St., 312-494-1900. This copy of a New York restaurant takes its name from Art Deco master Emil-Jacques Ruhlmann, and accordingly there are Art Deco accents throughout the bustling, 240-seat dining room — notably a series of gorgeous gilded panels above the bar. Chef Christian Delouvrier, who worked at L’Espinasse and Alain Ducasse, turns out classic brasserie food that is simultaneously hearty and nuanced — comfort food for the thinking person. Recommended: Le Chicago chowder, moules frites, lamb navarin, duck a l’orange, raspberry napoleon. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $22-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Chalkboard *** 4343 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-477-7144. Gilbert Langlois (ex-Rushmore, SushiSamba Rio) brings his creative-comfort-food act to the Lincoln Square neighborhood with this charmer, a beautiful dining room full of uncluttered elegance, enlivened by the occasional appearance of the chef’s son, Owen. Arrive 15 minutes early and spend the time hunting for a metered parking space. Recommended: Grilled quail with “secret” stuffing; beet salad, striped bass, fried chicken, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon., Wed.-Sun. Entree prices: $15-$28. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
Fahrenheit ** 1890 W. Main St., St. Charles, 630-444-1350. Culinary sleight-of-hand, deconstructed sauces and clouds of foam are commonplace at this Far West suburban restaurant, featuring chef Peter Balodimas in partnership with his father, Chris. Despite the dramatic flourishes, Balodimas’ food succeeds primarily on its approachable nature; he generally applies his whimsy to such comfort-food staples as pork belly and veal chop. Do save room for dessert, when Balodimas is at his artistic best. Recommended: Buttermilk-fried quail, “clam chowder,” venison chop, lamb shoulder, “PB & J” dessert. Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $17-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot.
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar ** 960 Milwaukee Ave., Lincolnshire, 847-793-0333. This is the sole (so far) Chicago-area outpost of this national steakhouse chain, though a River North location is scheduled to open in spring 2008. Prime steaks are aged 21 days, cut on the premises (so it’s easy to order an extra-thick cut) and consistently excellent. Desserts are decent, but invest your calories elsewhere. Clubby good looks and plenty of sound baffling contribute to an extremely pleasant atmosphere. Recommended: Fleming salad, NY strip steak, prime rib, chocolate lava cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $24.50-$42.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
The Gage *** 24 S. Michigan Ave.; 312-372-4243. A gastropub is an establishment that combines casual pubby atmosphere and serious food, and this spacious restaurant, across the street from Millennium Park, certainly qualifies. Owner Billy Lawless presides over the chummy bar, Dirk Flanigan produces stellar cooking from a perfect Scotch egg to mildly gamy elk chops, and Hillary Blanchard oversees the imaginative desserts. Recommended: Rabbit salad, Gage burger, lamb duo, sea bream with oxtail, “French toast” dessert. Open: Dinner and lunch daily; brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$38. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
Holy Mackerel ** Westin Lombard Hotel, 70 Yorktown Center, Lombard; 630-953-3444. The Harry Caray’s restaurant group is famous for its Italian specialties and prime steaks, and now, next door to the Lombard Harry Caray’s, is this seafood concept, a quiet, modern alternative to its lively sports-bar sibling. But no matter which dining room you’re in, you can order from either menu. Recommended: Mussels vindaloo, striped bass, cioppino, coquilles St. Jacques. Open: Breakfast, lunch, dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $16.95-$41.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet and self parking.
Macello ** 1235 W. Lake St., 312-850-9871. Giovanni DeNigris, who also owns Trattoria Trullo in Lincoln Square, once again specializes in the food of his native Puglia at this Market District spot. Housed in a former meat-packing space (Macello means “slaughterhouse”), DeNigris makes good use of vintage industrial materials to create a look that’s rustic yet distinctly urban. Two wood-burning ovens handle the brunt of the compact menu; roasted meats and fish are the best main courses, and though roasted antipasti (which change daily) are also satisfying, it’s tough to turn down the well-crafted, crispy-crust pizzas. Recommended: Mixed seafood grill, pizza barese, branzino, croccantino. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$44. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Maijean ** 30 S. Prospect Ave., Clarendon Hills; 630-794-8900. With colors evocative of a Provence sunset and undulating Art Nouveau decorative touches, Maijean (pronounced May-ZHEEN) is a breath of country-French air, an ideal setting for chef/owner Nadia Tilkian’s well-grounded but contemporary French cuisine. An affordable wine list and quick-on-their-feet service are pleasant bonuses. Recommended: Sweetbreads, salad Lyonnaise, striped bass with kohlrabi puree, champagne-poached peaches. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $18-$32. Credit cards: A DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
Powerhouse ** 215 N. Clinton St.; 312-928-0800. From its handsome, noise-baffling decor to the careful cooking and artistic plating of executive chef John Peters, this West-Loop American restaurant consistently exceeds expectations. The dining room is comfortable despite its long and narrow configuration, spot-on service is eager to please and the addition of Sarah Steele as pastry chef is a real coup. Recommended: Scallops with serrano ham, romaine-heart salad, venison, banana Bavarian plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $25-$43. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Riccardo Trattoria *** 2119 N. Clark St.; 773-549-0038. Riccardo Michi was an executive chef with the Bice restaurant group for many years, and Lincoln Park locals are thrilled to be getting Bice-quality food at neighborhood-trattoria prices — one of the big reasons that it’s hard to get a reservation at this narrow 50-seater. Michi’s robust, rustic cooking is first-rate and attitude free; he’s as happy to make a sinfully rich spaghetti carbonara as he is to laboriously create tripe Florentine, a signature dish that has developed something of a cult following. Recommended: Tuna carpaccio, orecchietti with boar sausage, lobster risotto, ricotta cheesecake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $12-$24. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Sam & Harry’s ** 1551 Thoreau Drive, Schaumburg, 847-303-4050. The decor of this northwest suburban restaurant is a far cry from the leather-and-burgundy clubbiness most steakhouses adopt; here there are glass walls and contemporary artwork, spacious tables and a few pillow-strewn couch seats (the most popular option). The menu avoids cliches as well, at least as well as any restaurant focused on prime aged beef can. A strong wine program and on-its-toes service are major assets. Recommended: Fried oysters, lobster bisque, Cajun ribeye. Open: Breakfast, lunch, dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $21-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Table Fifty-Two ** 52 W. Elm St.; 312-573-4000. Art Smith, renowned cookbook author and one-time personal chef to Oprah Winfrey, crams his notions of hospitality and Southern heritage into a 36-seat carriage house on the Gold Coast. Between the meager seating and Smith’s celebrity, it’s very difficult to reach this place by phone and even harder to secure a weekend reservation (best strategies include calling late afternoon or early evening, being persistent and settling for mid-week reservations or, better, lunch). Those who succeed are rewarded with soul-nurturing, down-home cooking and personal touches — such as Smith’s complimentary buttermilk-goat-cheese biscuits — that make you feel like a treasured house guest. Recommended: Fried-green tomato Napoleon, pistachio-coated chicken breast, ancho pork chop, 12-layer chocolate cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $18.50-$39. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking.
Tavern at the Park ** 130 E. Randolph St.; 312-552-0070. Across the street from Millennium Park’s northern border sits this two-story contemporary American tavern by the same group that operates Keefer’s steak house. Keefer’s executive chef John Hogan also supervises the culinary direction here, which generally consists of familiar, comfort-food dishes with the occasional, gentle twist. Recommended: Mussels and pepperoni, chicken pot pie, short ribs, double pork chop, Cookies and Cream. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices $15-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Tepatulco ** 2558 N. Halsted St.; 773-472-7419. Chef/owner Geno Bahena is back with this lively Lincoln Park restaurant. Fans of Bahena’s former Chicago restaurants, Ixcapuzalco and Chilpancingo (both closed) will find one or two similarities with Tepatulco’s menu, but it’s clear that Bahena isn’t merely rehashing the past here. The best option is the five-course, $45 tasting menu (add another $19 for wine pairings), a flavor-filled tour of Bahena’s craft. There’s plenty of indoor seating here, as well as a spacious outdoor courtyard. And on weekend evenings, a deejay starts up the music. Recommended: Vuelve a la vida (return to life), lamb chops in mole negro, molcajete surtido. Open: Dinner and lunch daily. Entree prices: $13.95-$21. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
