A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
Brasserie Ruhlmann *** 500 W. Superior St., 312-494-1900. This copy of a New York restaurant takes its name from Art Deco master Emil-Jacques Ruhlmann, and accordingly there are Art Deco accents throughout the bustling, 240-seat dining room. Chef Christian Delouvrier, who worked at L’Espinasse and Alain Ducasse, turns out classic brasserie food that is simultaneously hearty and nuanced — comfort food for the thinking person. Recommended: Le Chicago chowder, moules frites, lamb navarin, duck a l’orange, raspberry napoleon. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $22-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Crofton on Wells *** 535 N. Wells St., 312-755-1790. Ten years after its December 1997 opening, Suzy Crofton’s restaurant in River North has quietly become one of Chicago’s finest dining experiences, combining a handsome and quiet dining room with similarly understated but excellent cuisine from the chef and owner. Crofton’s seasonal American cooking is laden with comfort-food ingredients and a smattering of wild game, with the occasional spicy accent. Recommended: Quail with dried-cherry spoonbread, curried lentils with ginger creme fraiche, venison with tarragon sabayon, chocolate-banana plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $26-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Holy Mackerel ** Westin Lombard Hotel, 70 Yorktown Center, Lombard; 630-953-3444. The Harry Caray’s restaurant group is famous for its Italian specialties and prime steaks, and now, next door to the Lombard Harry Caray’s, is this seafood concept, a quiet, modern alternative to its lively sports-bar sibling. Recommended: Mussels vindaloo, striped bass, cioppino, coquilles St. Jacques. Open: Breakfast, lunch, dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $16.95-$41.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet and self parking.
Macello ** 1235 W. Lake St., 312-850-9871. Giovanni DeNigris, who also owns Trattoria Trullo in Lincoln Square, once again specializes in the food of his native Puglia at this Market District spot. Two wood-burning ovens handle the brunt of the compact menu; roasted meats and fish are the best main courses, and though roasted antipasti (which change daily) are also satisfying, it’s tough to turn down the well-crafted, crispy-crust pizzas. Recommended: Mixed seafood grill, pizza barese, branzino, croccantino. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$44. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Old Town Brasserie *** 1209 N. Wells St., 312-943-3000. Purists may sniff that this cozy restaurant isn’t a “true” brasserie (it’s not), but longtime restaurateur Bob Djahanguiri (Yvette, Toulouse) and acclaimed chef Roland Liccioni (Le Francais, Les Nomades) have partnered to create an outstanding dining experience. Dishes that starred on Liccioni’s Le Francais menus are here — at greatly reduced prices — along with simpler fare (escargots, salade Lyonnaise) that are just as satisfying. It wouldn’t be a Djahanguiri restaurant without live music, which is featured near the bar on Fridays and Saturdays (after 10 p.m.). Recommended: Duck consomme, artichoke terrine, poached salmon, lamb-sweetbreads duo, hazelnut souffle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $18-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Otom ** 951 W. Fulton Market; 312-491-5804. Just two doors down from its elder sibling, the acclaimed Moto, Otom is intended as Moto’s mirror opposite, offering approachable and affordable food devoid of the molecular-gastronomy razzle-dazzle that made Moto famous. Yet, in a colorful and contemporary setting that should appeal greatly to the cocktail crowd, chef Daryl Nash offers cooking that’s far too thoughtful to be dismissed as “Moto lite.” Young, friendly and unpretentious servers add to the extremely comfortable dining experience, and an impressive beverage program of affordable wines and novel cocktails is a big plus. Recommended: Thai-spiced mussels, braised lamb shank, jambalaya, banana split. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $14-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible (must call ahead), valet parking.
Powerhouse ** 215 N. Clinton St.; 312-928-0800. From its handsome, noise-baffling decor to the careful cooking and artistic plating of executive chef John Peters, this West-Loop American restaurant consistently exceeds expectations. The dining room is comfortable despite its long and narrow configuration, spot-on service is eager to please and the addition of Sarah Steele as pastry chef is a real coup. Recommended: Scallops with serrano ham, romaine-heart salad, venison, banana Bavarian plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $25-$43. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Takashi ** 1952 N. Damen Ave.; 773-772-6170. Takashi Yagihashi has become famous cooking for others, in such restaurants as the late Ambria, Tribute in suburban Detroit and Okada in Las Vegas. But now the chef has his own restaurant in a cozy 55-seat Bucktown house, an apt background for Yagihashi’s small-plate menu. Takashi’s best dishes combine artistic presentation with deceptively complex seasoning, and there are a great many of those. Attentive service and a knowing wine and sake list with very friendly prices are major selling points. Recommended: Trio of tofu, chicken fried in duck fat, chicken in clay pot, chocolate pave. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $21-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
