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MS. BRIGHTSIDE

“This season’s orgasmic explosion of color is long overdue,” says Simon Doonan, the always colorful creative director for Barneys New York and author of “Eccentric Glamour,” out next month from Simon and Schuster. “It’s life-affirming and fab to wear orange and yellow and bright green.”

Jil Sander draped cashmere tunic, $1,375 at Barneys New York, 25 E. Oak St., 312-587-1700; David Yurman Silver Ice hoop earrings, $3,750 at David Yurman, 40 E. Oak St., 312-787-7779, and davidyurman.com.

THE PREPPY

Just as the volume has come down for women, men should expect a more fitted look with a retro feel. The polo shirt and Members Only jacket return. And Barneys’ Simon Doonan is delighted to report that the color trend has hit the men’s collections too. “I love to see regular dudes wearing chartreuse and hot pink,” he says. “Why not? The Victorians thought pink was a very virile color.”

Dries Van Noten nylon zippered jacket, $500, and Raf Simons cotton trousers, $495, both at Barneys New York. Cotton V-neck T-shirt, $16.50 at Gap stores.

THE ARTIST

Many designers took their cues from museum walls for this season, turning out clothes with an artistic bent–everything from the broad brushstrokes of Franz Kline to the paint splatters of Jackson Pollock– that can “almost look hand-painted,” said Wendy Krimins, manager of Neiman Marcus on Michigan Avenue.

Chloe ribbed silk jacket, $2,995, and Fendi slim pants, $395, both at Neiman Marcus, 737 N. Michigan Ave., 312-642-5900. David Yurman Silver Ice Albion ring in white agate, $2,100, at David Yurman.

More from the runways: Color and transparency from Dolce & Gabbana, pink from Burberry and artistry from Chloe.

GODDESS

Dresses return?many of them with a new emphasis on the waist and goddesslike draping, says Kelly Golden, co-owner of the Winnetka boutique Neapolitan.

She loves them saturated with color, bordering on the neon, or bursting with bold blooms.

Alexander McQueen silk dress with patent belt, $1,775 at Neapolitan, 715 Elm St., Winnetka, 847-441-7784.

ANDROGYNOUS

Tomboys need not despair, as menswear is back, worn perfectly fitted or as a slouchier silhouette–or a combination thereof. “It’s very sexy and clean, and it fits a lot of body types,” says Heiji Choy Black, owner of the Wicker Park boutique Hejfina.

Comme des Garcons garbadine jacket, $626, Alexander Wang double-breasted silk tank, $327, and Acne trousers, $298, all at Hejfina, 1529 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-772-0002.

More from the runways: A bold floral from Dries Van Noten, a bolt of blue from Jil Sander and a menswear look by Ralph Lauren.