A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
Bistro Monet ** 462 Park Blvd., Glen Ellyn; 630-469-4002. For those who love French tradition at reasonable prices, in a room so quiet that one can rediscover the lost art of dinner conversation, Bistro Monet is your new favorite restaurant. Chef/owner Michel Saragueta has turned the former Les Deux Autres into an affordable oasis of country-French charm. Recommended: Chicken-liver mousse, turban of sole. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $22-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
Blu 47 * 4655 S. Martin Luther King Drive; 773-536-6000. Despite a total lack of exterior signage on its building, the 47th Street Market Place, this prettily decorated Bronzeville restaurant draws plenty of customers, thanks to a kitchen that cranks out reliable, modestly priced Southern-American staples. No-cover jazz music plays Thursday nights and during Sunday brunch, the latter featuring a bargain $19.95 buffet. Recommended: Southwestern chicken tarts, spinach-goat cheese salad, Bayou catfish, chipotle-barbecue short ribs. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $15.95-$23.95. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended Thursdays, Sundays. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking evenings.
Cooper’s Hawk * 15690 S. Harlem Ave., Orland Park; 708-633-0200. This novel concept pairs a 300-seat American restaurant and a fully equipped winery that produces more than two dozen distinct varieties. The winery half of the equation functions very well, producing uncomplicated, drinkable and affordable wines with a wide range of flavor profiles. The restaurant half is more problematic; though service is well-informed and the kitchen is fast, too many dishes are saddled with powerful sauces in copious quantities — which are not nearly as wine-friendly as they ought to be. Stick with the simplest preparations. Recommended: Ribeye steak, Key lime pie. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.99-$29.99. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet.
Holy Mackerel ** Westin Lombard Hotel, 70 Yorktown Center, Lombard; 630-953-3444. The Harry Caray’s restaurant group is famous for its Italian specialties and prime steaks, and now, next door to the Lombard Harry Caray’s, is this seafood concept, a quiet, modern alternative to its lively sports-bar sibling. Recommended: Mussels vindaloo, striped bass, cioppino, coquilles St. Jacques. Open: Breakfast, lunch, dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $16.95-$41.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet and self parking.
Maijean ** 30 S. Prospect Ave., Clarendon Hills; 630-794-8900. With colors evocative of a Provence sunset and undulating Art Nouveau decorative touches, Maijean (pronounced May-ZHEEN) is a breath of country-French air, an ideal setting for chef/owner Nadia Tilkian’s well-grounded but contemporary French cuisine. Recommended: Sweetbreads, salad Lyonnaise. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $18-$32. Credit cards: A DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
Prosecco ** 710 N. Wells St.; 312-951-9500. From its cream-colored, candlelit dining room to the regional-Italian cooking of chef/partner Mark Sparacino, this River North newcomer pleases in virtually every respect. Meals begin with a complimentary taste of sparkling wine, a small extravagance that underscores the front room’s commitment to top-notch service. If Sparacino’s food and Christian Hood’s wine list are a bit pricier than average, so be it — they’re more than justified by the surroundings, the attentive staff and the quality of the ingredients. Recommended: Softshell crab, risotto crab cakes, orecchiette with mushrooms, scallops in vanilla-prosecco cream. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $17-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Sixteen *** 401 N. Wabash Ave.; 312-588-8000. Given all the chest-thumping and publicity-mongering that has accompanied the creation of its home, the Trump International Hotel & Tower, it wouldn’t have ruined my day if Sixteen had turned out to be an overpriced flop. But this dazzling restaurant, oozing with spare-no-expense luxury and boasting riveting city views, lives up to the hype. Australian chef Frank Brunacci fashions an international menu that’s rife with muscular, aggressive flavors — yet his completed dishes are full of nuance and depth. Reserved but unstuffy service is a major asset. Recommended: English pea soup, quail, Malaysian-style duck percik, diver scallop “bang bang,” Study in Strawberry. Open: Dinner and breakfast Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $36-$39. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, discounted valet parking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
