A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
Bistro Monet ** 462 Park Blvd., Glen Ellyn; 630-469-4002. For those who love French tradition at reasonable prices, in a room so quiet that one can rediscover the lost art of dinner conversation, Bistro Monet is your new favorite restaurant. Chef/owner Michel Saragueta has turned the former Les Deux Autres (and Les Deux Gros prior to that) into an affordable oasis of country-French charm, with laid-back and friendly service. Recommended: Chicken-liver mousse, turban of sole, skate wing, dessert souffle. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $22-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
Gabriel’s *** 310 Green Bay Rd., Highwood; 847-433-0031. Classic restaurants become classics for a reason; Gabriel’s demonstrates why they remain so. Gabriel Viti’s signature restaurant, which made a huge splash with its 1993 debut on the North Shore, has settled into a well-defined niche in the Highwood restaurant scene, offering Viti’s familiar, high-quality French and Italian dishes in a postcard-cute country-French dining room with a copper-skillet-lined display kitchen. Viti is a constant presence in the dining room, chatting up regulars and newcomers with equal enthusiasm, sommelier Bob Bansberg, late of Ambria, is a huge asset. Recommended: Sesame-crusted tuna, crespelle, pancetta-wrapped trout. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $23.95-$46.50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, $5 valet parking.
Holy Mackerel ** Westin Lombard Hotel, 70 Yorktown Center, Lombard; 630-953-3444. The Harry Caray’s restaurant group is famous for its Italian specialties and prime steaks, and now, next door to the Lombard Harry Caray’s, is this seafood concept, a quiet, modern alternative to its lively sports-bar sibling. But no matter which dining room you’re in, you can order from either menu. Recommended: Mussels vindaloo, striped bass, cioppino, coquilles St. Jacques. Open: Breakfast, lunch, dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $16.95-$41.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet and self parking.
Maijean ** 30 S. Prospect Ave., Clarendon Hills; 630-794-8900. With colors evocative of a Provence sunset and undulating Art Nouveau decorative touches, Maijean (pronounced May-ZHEEN) is a breath of country-French air, an ideal setting for chef/owner Nadia Tilkian’s well-grounded but contemporary French cuisine. An affordable wine list and quick-on-their-feet service are pleasant bonuses. Recommended: Sweetbreads, salad Lyonnaise, striped bass with kohlrabi puree, champagne-poached peaches. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $18-$32. Credit cards: A DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
Sam & Harry’s ** 1551 Thoreau Drive, Schaumburg; 847-303-4050. The decor of this northwest suburban restaurant is a far cry from the leather-and-burgundy clubbiness most steakhouses adopt; here there are glass walls and contemporary artwork, spacious tables and a few pillow-strewn couch seats (the most popular option). The menu avoids cliches as well, at least as well as any restaurant focused on prime aged beef can. A strong wine program and on-its-toes service are major assets. Recommended: Fried oysters, lobster bisque, Cajun ribeye. Open: Breakfast, lunch, dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $21-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Takashi ** 1952 N. Damen Ave.; 773-772-6170. Takashi Yagihashi has become famous cooking for others, in such restaurants as the late Ambria, Tribute in suburban Detroit and Okada in Las Vegas. But now the chef has his own restaurant in a cozy 55-seat Bucktown house, an apt background for Yagihashi’s small-plate menu. Takashi’s best dishes combine artistic presentation with deceptively complex seasoning, and there are a great many of those. Attentive service and a knowing wine and sake list with very friendly prices are major selling points. Recommended: Trio of tofu, chicken fried in duck fat, chicken in clay pot, chocolate pave. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $21-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking.
Tavern at the Park ** 130 E. Randolph St.; 312-552-0070. Across the street from Millennium Park’s northern border sits this two-story contemporary American tavern by the same group that operates Keefer’s steak house. Keefer’s executive chef John Hogan also supervises the culinary direction here. Recommended: Mussels and pepperoni, chicken pot pie, short ribs, double pork chop, Cookies and Cream. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices $15-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Tepatulco ** 2558 N. Halsted St.; 773-472-7419. Chef/owner Geno Bahena is back with this lively Lincoln Park restaurant. Fans of Bahena’s former Chicago restaurants, Ixcapuzalco and Chilpancingo (both closed) will find one or two similarities with Tepatulco’s menu, but it’s clear that Bahena isn’t merely rehashing the past here. The best option is the five-course, $45 tasting menu (add another $19 for wine pairings), a flavor-filled tour of Bahena’s craft. There’s plenty of indoor seating here, as well as a spacious outdoor courtyard. And on weekend evenings, a deejay starts up the music and the place really gets lively. Recommended: Vuelve a la vida (return to life), lamb chops in mole negro, molcajete surtido. Open: Dinner and lunch daily. Entree prices: $13.95-$21. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Vermilion *** 10 W. Hubbard St.; 312-527-4060. Fair warning: Chef Maneet Chauhan’s Indian-Latin fusion cooking is spicy — sometimes seriously hot, sometimes not — but this is one ethnic restaurant that doesn’t tone down its food for wider appeal. (Want something a little less sweat-inducing? Well-informed waiters can guide you to the mildest parts of the menu.) An ambitious beverage program of food-friendly wines (lots of by-the-glass choices) and signature cocktails supports the kitchen’s output. The sleek dining room features white-tablecloth tables, framed black-and-white fashion photography and vivid-red curtains hung here and there — a literal black and white and red all over scheme. Recommended: Wild-boar jibarito, artichoke pakoras, lobster Portuguese, lamb shank gassi. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18-$31. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
