A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
Fuego ** 17 W. Campbell Ave., Arlington Heights, 847-590-1122. Deftly combining elements of Chicago’s top Mexican restaurants (the Adobo Grill guacamole cart, for instance), this Northwest Suburban hotspot manages to satisfy the Tex-Mex neophyte and regional-Mexican aficionado with equal measure (and both groups are likely to enjoy the killer cocktails here). Recommended: Tamalitos, lamb shank, filet in mole poblano. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $10.95-$25.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted; parties of 6 or more on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
Gabriel’s *** 310 Green Bay Rd., Highwood, 847-433-0031. Classic restaurants become classics for a reason; Gabriel’s demonstrates why they remain so. Gabriel Viti’s signature restaurant, which made a huge splash with its 1993 debut on the North Shore, has settled into a well-defined niche in the Highwood restaurant scene, offering Viti’s familiar, high-quality French and Italian dishes in a postcard-cute country-French dining room with a copper-skillet-lined display kitchen. Viti is a constant presence in the dining room, chatting up regulars and newcomers with equal enthusiasm, sommelier Bob Bansberg, late of Ambria, is a huge asset. Recommended: Sesame-crusted tuna, pancetta-wrapped trout. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $23.95-$46.50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, $5 valet parking.
Green Zebra *** 1460 W. Chicago Ave., 312-243-7100. Shawn McClain’s mostly vegetarian (there’s always one fish selection) and vegan-friendly restaurant is one of those places to show off to out-of-towners, because no matter where they’re from, they haven’t got this back home. Not only is the vegetable-focused menu good enough to convert the most ardent carnivore, but it’s also presented with a fine-dining sensibility. If only the dining room were twice its current size, there might be room for all the people who want to eat here. Recommended: Burrata salad, chestnut-puree potstickers, poached over smoked-potato puree. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun. Prices: Small plates $7-$16. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Lockwood *** Palmer House Hilton, 17 E. Monroe St.; 312-917-3404. Giving the Palmer House the gourmet restaurant it has long deserved, Lockwood manages to embrace the hotel’s storied past while remaining very much a contemporary concept. Chef Phillip Foss cooks with imagination, humor and considerable skill. The lavishly appointed dining room manages to remain low-key and intimate, and general manager Kirk Alston is an articulate and passionate promoter of the deep wine list. Recommended: “Crab apple,” squab breast, veal trio, banana napoleon. Open: Dinner, breakfast, lunch daily. Entree prices: $28-$46. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, discounted self-parking with validation.
Prosecco ** 710 N. Wells St., 312-951-9500. From its cream-colored, candlelit dining room to the regional-Italian cooking of chef/partner Mark Sparacino, this River North newcomer pleases in virtually every respect. Meals begin with a complimentary taste of sparkling wine, a small extravagance that underscores the front room’s commitment to top-notch service. If Sparacino’s food and Christian Hood’s wine list are a bit pricier than average, so be it — they’re more than justified by the surroundings, the attentive staff and the quality of the ingredients. Recommended: Softshell crab, risotto crab cakes, orecchiette with mushrooms, veal saltimbocca, scallops in vanilla-prosecco cream. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $17-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Sixteen *** 401 N. Wabash Ave., 312-588-8000. Given all the publicity that has accompanied the creation of its home, the Trump International Hotel & Tower, it wouldn’t have ruined my day if Sixteen had turned out to be an overpriced flop. But this dazzling restaurant, oozing with spare-no-expense luxury and boasting riveting city views, lives up to the hype. Australian chef Frank Brunacci fashions an International menu that’s rife with muscular, aggressive flavors — yet his completed dishes are full of nuance and depth. Reserved but unstuffy service is a major asset. Recommended: English pea soup, quail, Malaysian-style duck percik, Study in Strawberry. Open: Dinner and breakfast Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $36-$39. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, discounted valet parking.
Table Fifty-Two ** 52 W. Elm St.; 312-573-4000. Art Smith, renowned cookbook author and one-time personal chef to Oprah Winfrey, crams his notions of hospitality and Southern heritage into a 36-seat carriage house on the Gold Coast. Between the meager seating and Smith’s celebrity, it’s very difficult to reach this place by phone and even harder to secure a weekend reservation (best strategies include calling late afternoon or early evening, being persistent and settling for mid-week reservations or, better, lunch). Those who succeed are rewarded with soul-nurturing, down-home cooking and personal touches — such as Smith’s complimentary buttermilk-goat-cheese biscuits — that make you feel like a treasured house guest. Recommended: Fried-green tomato Napoleon, pistachio-coated chicken breast, ancho pork chop, 12-layer chocolate cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $18.50-$39. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
