A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
Chef Amaury’s Epicurean Affair *** 481 N. Commons Drive, Aurora; 630-375-0426. Restaurants don’t get much more personal than this. Chef Amaury Rosado — born, raised, educated and trained in Chicago — serves dinner on Fridays and Saturdays only and features a five-course, $60 menu of contemporary-American creations. The serving staff consists of Rosado’s wife, Trisha, and her sister, Kelley McFarland, who dispense twin doses of charm and professionalism in the 30-seat dining room. Open: Dinner Fri.-Sat., lunch Fri. Prices: Five-course menu, $60 (some a la carte options available). Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, free parking lot.
Dan McGee ** 330 W. Lincoln Hwy., Frankfort; 815-469-7750. Dan McGee has cooked on three continents, but when it came time to open his own place, he chose a location very close to his Orland Park hometown. The idea is to deliver a city experience at suburban prices, and he largely succeeds with an understated yet stylish, 46-seat dining room, and a menu with enough imagination to create a halibut-and-shortrib surf-and-turf. Friendly service needs more polish and the kitchen needs to address an item or two, but this yearling is impressive, and probably will grow more so. Recommended: Gorgonzola cake, sea scallops in ginger-carrot broth, roasted chicken breast, Grand Marnier panna cotta. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri. Entree prices: $20-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more only. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot.
Graham Elliot ** 217 W. Huron St.; 312-624-9975. Graham Elliot Bowles, who earned four stars at Avenues while defying customer expectations of haute cuisine (using prepared foods such as candy and Rice Krispies cereal as ingredients), takes a sledgehammer to the notions of creature comforts at his self-named restaurant in River North. Tables are bereft of tablecloths and candles; mirror-boxed arrangements of fruit stand in for fresh flowers. But the food always exhilarates and satisfies, and though Bowles will garnish cheddar risotto with Cheez-Its and continues to offer foie gras crusted with Pop Rocks (dubbed foilipops), like some culinary Warhol, his iconic/ironic touches always hit the mark. Recommended: GE Caesar salad, beet salad, pork prime rib, BLT salmon. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $27-$35. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Hub 51 ** 51 W. Hubbard St.; 312-828-0051. The first restaurant by R.J. and Jerrod Melman, sons of legendary restaurateur Rich Melman, will remind diners of a certain age of Melman Sr.’s first restaurant, R.J. Grunt’s. The menu at Hub 51 is similarly uncomplicated (basic American “fun” food in an industrial-chic atmosphere), there’s the same nonconformist humor in the wisecracking menus and, just as important, it’s as tuned into the youth culture today as R.J. Grunt’s was back in the ’70s. Recommended: Dry-rub ribs, Three Green Bites, rainbow roll, burgers, carrot cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $16-$35. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations. Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Perennial *** 1800 N. Lincoln Ave.; 312-981-7070. Although posited as a casual counterpart to its elegant sister property, Boka, Perennial has many creative, artistic dishes (courtesy of chef de cuisine Ryan Poli and executive chef Giuseppe Tentori) that would look right at home on Boka’s menu. At least the budget-conscious prices bear out the relationship; Perennial is a considerably less-expensive proposition. Factor in the savvy wine list, the sunny dining room and sharp, knowing service, and there’s nothing to dislike about this place. Recommended: Pork belly with spoonbread, deconstructed cheesecake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $17-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Soul *** 1 Walker Ave., Clarendon Hills; 630-920-1999. It’s easy to assume that this west-suburban newcomer takes its name from soul food, inasmuch as chef Karen Nicholas’ regional-American food makes extensive use of ingredients such as black-eyed peas and collard greens. But her take is decidedly modern, marrying Low Country to haute cuisine in dishes such as oxtail hoppin’ John and hushpuppies filled with salt cod. An ambitious beverage program includes affordable wines and well-crafted signature cocktails. Service is fairly knowledgeable and extremely attentive, and the sleek, low-lit interior is downright romantic, unless you’re seated near the display kitchen. All this in a sleepy suburban downtown that is starting to become a bit of a dining destination. Recommended: Oxtail hoppin’ John, bourbon-glazed duck, bacon-wrapped trout, peach dessert. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $16-$18. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Zed 451 ** 739 N. Clark St.; 312-266-6691. What was once a Brazilian-steakhouse called Sal y Carvao has transformed. The format remains the same — a single price includes an all-you-can-eat meal of salad bar and tableside service of various grilled meats — but there’s more range to its offerings (such as roasted duck breast and tempura mahi-mahi) and more variety in its seasonings and saucings. It’s more veggie-friendly, too. The modern building includes generously spaced tables, a spacious bar area and a popular rooftop lounge. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. Prices: Full dinner/brunch $49, salad-bar only $36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
