A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
Graham Elliot ** 217 W. Huron St.; 312-624-9975. Graham Elliot Bowles, who earned four stars at Avenues while defying customer expectations of haute cuisine, takes a sledgehammer to the notions of creature comforts at his self-named restaurant in River North. Tables are bereft of tablecloths and candles; mirror-boxed arrangements of fruit stand in for fresh flowers. But the food always exhilarates and satisfies, and though Bowles will garnish cheddar risotto with Cheez-Its and continues to offer foie gras crusted with Pop Rocks (dubbed foilipops), like some culinary Warhol, his iconic/ironic touches always hit the mark. Recommended: Pork prime rib, BLT salmon. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $27-$35. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Hub 51 ** 51 W. Hubbard St.; 312-828-0051. The first restaurant by R.J. and Jerrod Melman, sons of legendary restaurateur Rich Melman, will remind diners of a certain age of Melman Sr.’s first restaurant, R.J. Grunt’s. The menu at Hub 51 is similarly uncomplicated (basic American “fun” food in an industrial-chic atmosphere), there’s the same nonconformist humor in the wisecracking menus and, just as important, it’s as tuned into the youth culture today as R.J. Grunt’s was in the ’70s. Recommended: Three Green Bites, carrot cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $16-$35. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations. Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Perennial *** 1800 N. Lincoln Ave.; 312-981-7070. Although posited as a casual counterpart to its elegant sister property, Boka, Perennial has many creative, artistic dishes (courtesy of chef de cuisine Ryan Poli and executive chef Giuseppe Tentori) that would look at home on Boka’s menu. At least the budget-conscious prices bear out the relationship; Perennial is a less-expensive proposition. Factor in the savvy wine list, the sunny dining room and sharp, knowing service, and there’s nothing to dislike about this place. Recommended: Veal breast, pork belly with spoonbread, deconstructed cheesecake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $17-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Tallulah *** 4539 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-942-7585. In a neighborhood dotted with intimate restaurants, Tallulah may be the most sophisticated. Chef Troy Graves’ contemporary American menu is delicious agony, one enticing choice after another, and the dining room is smart and comfortable, if rather noisy. And Graves has a knack for making incompatible-sounding ingredients (strawberries and fava beans), play nice together. Recommended: Lobster deviled eggs, pistachio cheesecake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $17-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
