A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
C-House ** 166 E. Superior St.; 312-523-0923. The heralded Marcus Samuelsson (Aquavit in NYC) brings this subtle, small-plates-focused concept to Chicago, executed ably by executive chef Seth Siegel-Gardner. There are some impressive entrees, including the surprisingly interesting skirt steak, but most of the action takes place at the raw bar, which has an array of intriguing small plates as well as the required tiered seafood towers. Recommended: Hamachi tacos, sashimi cobia, suckling pig. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., breakfast Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $19-$45. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Haussmann Brasserie ** 305 Happ Rd., Northfield; 847-446-1133. Jacky Pluton (ex-Carlos’, Provence, Jacky’s Bistro, Pluton) is back, on the North Shore, this time at a 175-seat casual French spot that bears a distinctly American accent, considering the sizable steak and burger offerings on the menu and the ’70s rock ‘n’ roll anthems that form Pluton’s background music of choice. Recommended: French onion soup, roasted chicken (for two), apple tart. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18-$39. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
Hub 51 ** 51 W. Hubbard St.; 312-828-0051. The first restaurant by R.J. and Jerrod Melman, sons of legendary restaurateur Rich Melman, will remind diners of a certain age of Melman Sr.’s first restaurant, R.J. Grunt’s. The menu at Hub 51 is similarly uncomplicated (basic American “fun” food in an industrial-chic atmosphere), there’s the same nonconformist humor in the wisecracking menus and, just as important, it’s as tuned into the youth culture today as R.J. Grunt’s was back in the ’70s. Recommended: Dry-rub ribs, rainbow roll, burgers. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $16-$35. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations. Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Marion Street Cheese Market * 100 S. Marion St., Oak Park; 708-725-7200. What was once a tiny cheese shop has become (after a move a block away) a retail emporium nearly six times its original size — which leaves enough room for a cute cafe that seats up to 60. Michael Pivoney, late of the Signature Room, oversees a small-plates menu of uncomplicated dishes, many of which take advantage of the wide variety of cheeses the market stocks. Service is still learning the ropes, so it helps to approach this place with a laid-back attitude. Recommended: Fried green tomatoes, sausage-fontina pizza, smoked pork with sweet-potato hash, cheese assortments. Open: Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily. Prices: Small plates $6-$16. Credit cards: A, DS, V, M. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
Perennial *** 1800 N. Lincoln Ave.; 312-981-7070. Posited as a casual counterpart to its elegant sister property, Boka, Perennial has many creative, artistic dishes (courtesy of chef de cuisine Ryan Poli and executive chef Giuseppe Tentori) that would look right at home on Boka’s menu. Budget-conscious prices bear out the relationship; Perennial is a considerably less-expensive proposition. Recommended: Pork belly with spoonbread. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $17-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Piccolo Sogno ** 464 N. Halsted St.; 312-421-0077. Long-time Coco Pazzo chef Tony Priolo has realized his “little dream” with this Fulton Market-area spot. Priolo is cooking with a little more subtlety these days, though aggressive flavors remain his strength. Recommended: Antipasti platter, pizza bianco, fettucine with Tuscan-kale pesto. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $13-$24. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
