A fair number of you may scoff at the notion of chain restaurants. Enough well-meaning readers have written, insisting the BEST BURGER IN THE WORLD resides at their neighborhood grille (“e” = classy). But with burger chains comes the reputation of a known quantity, not to mention consistency. And such places — the In-N-Outs of the world — can instill irrational, cultlike behavior among devotees.These five chains — Sonic Drive-In, Fatburger, Meat Heads, Five Guys and The Counter — combine for some 3,500 locations across the country. Only in the last year have they begun popping up in the Chicago area. These restaurants (except Sonic, which is more “fast food”) have something in common: They’re taking the burger and applying an artisan’s touch to the preparation.
At The Counter in Lakeview, the California-based chain that touts its “custom-built burgers,” the beef is prominently advertised as “certified humane” and “raised on a vegetarian diet without hormones or antibiotics.” Or there are the buns at Five Guys Burger and Fries — eggy, buttery, brioche-like — which spokeswoman Molly Catalano calls its “trademark.” And then there’s Sonic Drive-In — its burgers, cherry limeade and retro motif long advertised on TV in Chicago, but curiously not a single outlet in the neighborhood. Not anymore.
Point is, there’s something appealing about this humble slice of Americana elevated to a go-and-seek-out experience. Which is why I spent one afternoon, one tank of gas and one bottle of pink antacid, and broke down each of these chain’s signature burgers. Here’s the good news: Most of the chains we sampled passed the decent-if-not-better test. So there is hope in this world.
My gastroenterologist thanks you for reading.
A look at five new chains, five new signature cheeseburgers. All praise…
Sonic Drive-In
A-
4023 W. 167th St., Country Club Hills; 708-798-4204
(Other Chicagoland locations in Aurora and Algonquin)
“SuperSONIC Cheeseburger”
Price: $3.99
Weight: 11.5 oz.
Price per ounce: 35 cents
Height: 1 3/4 in.
Diameter: 4 15/16 in.
Circumference: 15 1/2 in.
Calories: 1,314
Fat: 68.1 grams
Sodium: 2,072 mg
Construction (top to bottom): Bun / Cheese / Patty / Cheese / Patty / Tomato / Lettuce / Pickles / Mustard-Mayo-Ketchup / Bun
Taste test: A nice sweetness to the buns … the cheese has successfully melted into the patty’s crevices and created an amalgam of beefy wonderfulness … well-balanced and well-flavored on the whole … not as greasy as similar burgers.
Fatburger
C+
15110 S. LaGrange Rd., Orland Park; 708-364-8380
“Fatburger with Cheese”
Price: $5.48
Weight: 9 oz.
Price per ounce: 61 cents
Height: 1 3/4 in.
Diameter: 4 9/16 in.
Circumference: 14 1/3 in.
Calories: 885
Fat: 60 g
Sodium: 1,750 mg
Construction (top to bottom): Bun / Mayo / Lettuce / Tomato / Pickle / Onion / Relish / Mustard / Beef / Cheese / Bun
Taste test: Prominent taste of relish upon first bite … a soft toasted bun though slightly stale around the edges … lacking adequate seasoning … griddled beef had a crispy edge, but mine was overcooked and had a break-apart, mealy quality. This doesn’t speak for Fatburger’s quality; I’ve had fantastic ones in the past … incredibly filling, rich, and this was only the second smallest of five options of burger sizes … throw in the towel, coach.
Meat Heads
B
2555 W. 75th St., Naperville; 630-355-6066
“The Meathead”
Price: $5.25
Weight: 8.5 oz.
Price per ounce: 62 cents
Height: 1 7/8 in.
Diameter: 4 3/8 in.
Circumference: 13 3/4 in.
Calories: 771
Fat: 52.1 g
Sodium: 877.2 mg
Construction (top to bottom): Bun / Ketchup-Mustard-Mayo / Pickles / Cheese / Patty / Cheese / Patty / Grilled Onions / Tomato / Lettuce / Bun
Taste test: Physically resembles a Wendy’s Deluxe Double Stack, tastes a lot better though … the veg looks fresh and vibrant … soft potato bun surprisingly sturdy … loved the griddled double Angus beef patty seared to a nice crisp … fine, upstanding and respectable, can’t say anything bad about it; it’s the Patrick Fitzgerald of cheeseburgers.
Five Guys
B+
2140 N. Clybourn Ave.; 773-327-5953 (and at 1115 W. Lake St., Oak Park; 708-358-0856)
“Cheeseburger”
Price: $5.59
Weight: 13.5 oz.
Price per ounce: 41 cents
Height: 2 7/8 in.
Diameter: 4.5 in.
Circumference: 14 1/7 in.
Calories: 986
Fat: 66 g
Sodium: 1735 mg
Construction (top to bottom): Bun / Mayo / Lettuce / Pickles / Tomatoes / Patty / Cheese / Patty / Onions / Mushrooms / Ketchup-Mustard / Bun
Taste test: The version we ordered is known as an “All The Way” … a challenge to fit first bite of burger into mouth; jaws slightly sore … the double patties were the beefiest of the beefs, yet could be seasoned better … love the sweet, brioche-like bun here … many free toppings to choose from; grilled mushrooms were especially nice.
The Counter
A-
666 W. Diversey Pkwy.; 773-935-1995
“Old School”
Price: $8.25
Weight: 11.5 oz.
Price per ounce: 72 cents
Height: 3 7/16 in.
Diameter: 3 13/16 in.
Circumference: 12 in.
No nutritional facts available
Construction (top to bottom): Bun / Red Relish / Pickles / Cheese / Patty / Red Onions / Tomato / Bun
Taste test: Wow, the only “chain” that cooks the burger medium “unless otherwise requested,” as a result, beef patties resembling something you’d make in your backyard … a hint of pepperiness in the Angus beef … the pickles are fantastic, tangy, sweet and crunchy … the red relish, fancy name for ketchup + relish, brings everything together … the buns boast a firm crust; love that it’s buttered and toasted … more sandwich than burger, more parts than sum, though neatly assembled, aesthetically pleasing.
kpang@tribune.com
