Though some recent reports would have you believe otherwise, people don’t necessarily stop eating out when the economy hits the skids. They just start eating sandwiches. And not any old sandwiches, apparently. If Chicago’s recent crop of upscale sandwich spots — not a single one of them with American cheese or French’s mustard on the menu — is any indication, sandwiches just might be among the most recession-proof foods around. Here’s a look at how three newcomers stack up.
Lunch Rolls 112 W. Monroe St. 312-551-0000
This slightly gimmicky spot (how many ways can one be forced to say the word roll while ordering?) caters to Loop lunchers with efficient counter service and lots of seating. The retro-inspired space housed Spa Cafe until about four weeks ago, when the cafe’s owners teamed up with Richard Levy, the man who gave you Salad Spinners, to open Lunch Rolls. Sandwich chef extraordinaire Kurt Chenier’s menu includes options such as Moroccan lamb with Israeli couscous and golden raisins and smoked whitefish with greens, grape tomatoes and honey-mustard vinaigrette. Sandwiches ($6.29) are served on a house roll, wheat roll, pita roll or lettuce roll (only one of which is actually a roll).
One delicious sandwich: The Chicago Steakhouse, marinated skirt steak with red onions, carrots and lightly pickled cauliflower.
Beyond sandwiches: Sides and more sides ($2.49 each). Choose from stuffing and gravy, mac and cheese, jambalaya, and more than a half-dozen others.
How it stacks up: The fast-casual setup lends the place a bit of a cafeteria feel, but don’t be fooled. These are above-average sandwiches, some good enough to be habit-forming.
The Brasserie’s Market 1211 N. Wells St. 312-943-0540
Neighborhood boite Old Town Brasserie recently spun off this itty bitty market where made-to-order sandwiches offer an inexpensive carryout alternative to the restaurant’s sophisticated French fare. Though it’s attached to the brasserie with direct access to the bar through an interior door, you also can enter from the street. Most sandwiches are served on baguettes or croissants; other options range from smoked salmon on multigrain toast to a fully loaded veggie sandwich on ciabatta.
One delicious sandwich: Serrano ham and manchego ($6), served on a baguette with whole-grain mustard, baby arugula and balsamic vinaigrette.
Beyond sandwiches: Prepared foods and sides from Old Town Brasserie chef Andy Motto, as well as pastries, desserts, coffee and wine.
How it stacks up: There’s nothing wildly innovative going on here, but sandwiches are reliable and the price is right — several are $5.50, and the most expensive (a roasted strip loin number that you’re just as well off skipping anyway) is $7.50.
Birchwood Kitchen 2211 W. North Ave. 773-276-2100
The guys behind this 2-week-old Wicker Park BYOB — owners Daniel Sirko and Judd Murphy and chef Jason Ball — are taking the simple sandwich to new heights with ingredients that put Oscar Mayer and Hellmann’s to shame, including house-made mozzarella, artisan cured meats from La Quercia and lamb from Mint Creek Farms. Choose from cold and hot sandwiches such as goat cheese, roasted beets, walnut pesto and citrus arugula on a baguette ($8.25) and roast beef, brandied blue cheese, caramelized onions and Dijon mustard on grilled sourdough ($8.50).
One delicious sandwich: A lamb French dip ($9, left) consisting of beer-braised lamb and house-pickled onions on a toasted baguette, served with herbed lamb jus for dipping.
Beyond sandwiches: House-made soups and salads, quiche, a cheese plate and other light bistro fare. In the summer, look for once-a-week outdoor barbecues and the occasional full-fledged BYOB dinner.
How it stacks up: Topping out at $9.50, sandwiches here are pricier than your average sandwich shop. But you get what you pay for: high-quality ingredients and some seriously thoughtful sandwiches.
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kpratt@tribune.com
